[tutorial] ulzzang make up.

i've quite never done real tutorials on here, i'm not a big fan of tutorials anyways since to me, makeup should stay somewhat spontaneous and creative. you might want to learn techniques and rough schemes (i think the vloggers and serious makeup artists on youtube do a brilliant job!), but the choice of product and colour should stay up to you.
so this is my first attempt on a full face tutorial-like post, in fact it's just a step by step highlighting on some tricks and techniques i developed during the last year or so.
please bear with any shortcomings, as always your constructive criticism is highly appreciated!
(also, please overlook the "old" photo quality, the pictures for this post were shot a few months ago.)

some time ago i told you that i was into the "ulzzang" makeup look. ulzzang, uljjang or eoljjang is a korean term and means "best face" or "good looking" - to me, it's to make the best out of oneself in an almost indiscernable manner.
it's all about this very youthful and natural look that is adorable on hallyu starlets.
this includes a flawless, bright complexion makeup and point makeup that sculpts, enhances and flatters your features without adding too much obvious effects such as colour or shimmer. the aim is to look pure and natural, but most times there are many products and a lot of work behind.

my approach is the soft version of "ulzzang", no fake eyelashes, circle lenses, or duckface - promise!
although many steps and even more products are involved, it's a well thought out selection. choose the most refined textures, natural finishes and perfect shades for your skintone.
the full-on look would cost too much effort for everyday, this is something i'd do for a job interview or first date and the like. on a normal day-to-day-basis, i can still embrace many of the steps shown here, though!

__________step 1 - base makeup___________

ByTerry Hyaluronic Face Glow - Guerlain Lingerie de Peau Foundation - BeautyBlender

face concealer: Essence Smokey Eyes Brush - Maybelline Dream Mousse Concealer

undereye concealer: Giorgio Armani Master Corrector #2 - Giorgio Armani High Precision Retouch Concealer

Guerlain Les Voilettes Mineral - Chikuhodo Z1

starting point is the regular face makeup with +/- primer, foundation, +/- undereye corrector, undereye and face concealer, setting powder. maybe be a bit more thorough with pinpoint-concealing to achieve a flawless canvas.

__________step 2 - eyebrows__________

spooley wand - MAC Copperplate - K-Palette 1 Day Tattoo Real Lasting Eyebrow - P2 Brow Gel - Louise Young L31

now i'd do my brows, this is a key feature in ulzzang makeup. the eyebrows should be quite full and thick, very straight and well-groomed to open up the lid space and fake this child-like innocent expression for a bright and youthful look.
i fill in my brows very carefully and use brow powder, a liquid pen to fake hair structure where there's none and brow gel. you can find a more detailed description in my brow tutorial.

__________step 3 - dimension & contours__________

3.1 warmth

BA by Pola The Powdery Foundation (sample) - Chikuhodo Z9

the asian ideal of beauty also consists of a slim face with almost pointy chin contour, a V-shaped face. as i have a rounded face shape but am not averse to a slimmer jawline i would want to fake this with contouring (wouldn't really consider plastic surgery like implants or jawbone reshaping ;)  ).

since i've blanked out a lot of dimension in my skin with foundation and concealer, now i need to draw it back on.
to slim down the face and subtly define the V-line, i'd apply a slightly darker powder to the perimeter of my face (marked area on the pic below XD excuse my poor photo-editing skills). i prefer a powder foundation or face powder a few shades darker than my skintone to a classic bronzer since the often darker and orange tinged bronzer colour can look obvious and unnatural.

3.2 face contour

Chikuhodo Z2 - Burberry Earthy Blush No.07

additionally to the warmth i gave to the outer parts of the face, i also contour the cheekbones with a different shade. to fake the shadow of imaginary prominent cheekbones, i would go for a darker colour with less orange but more rose and grey tones than what i used in the step before.
i usually blend out the first layer more softly (about to the size of the marked area), the second layer to intensify the depth is thinner, think the "magic line" - of course everything with utmost subtlety.

3.3 nose contour

 

NYX Blush in Taupe - RMK Eyeshadow Brush M

an outstanding feature of the look is the very highlighted nose bridge to make it appear slimmer, straighter and higher, and to accent this i need to contour my nose.
from the root almost down to the tip i'd softly apply a contour powder with a smallish fluffy brush (contouring the root of the nose also adds more dimension to the eyes). i use a different shade for nose contouring than for cheek contouring, it should be a taupe with more grey in it since i don't need any rose tinge in the center of my face at all.
nose contouring is a tricky job, you can easily end up with a crooked, too thick or too thin looking nose or the drag-queen-look if you overdo it. you might want to try it a few times first (for example in the evening prior to makeup removal) before actually integrating this step into your routine.

3.4 highlights

Givenchy Le Prisme Visage Bucolic Blossoms (only lavender part) - Hakuhodo Kokutan Eyeshadow Brush L

since it's all about a bright and perfected complexion, highlighting is a must. shadows and hollows are put, now it's time to set some lights. because subtlety rules, i avoid shimmery products and go for colour-highlighting. a pale lavender shade with low pearl finish would be my first choice. it contrasts and absorbs any sallowness in my complexion and brightens effectively.
i'd apply the powder with a soft and small brush down the center of the face, fake a high nose and pointy chin and so on ;) for a more authentic look i could even go with a much stronger white pearl highlight for the bridge of the nose but since i'm on the low-key level, i'll stick with the sheer face highlighter.

__________step 4 - eye make up__________

here you have my eye before eye makeup. the aim is a bright, wide awake look with depth and dimension but without adding obvious elements.

4.1 lid shading

MAC PaintPot in Groundwork - Sigma SS217 Travel Size

first i'd add a natural colour very sheerly on the lids to make them appear less plain. i chose a cream shadow but of course it could be a powder eyeshadow as well. it should be a shade that is a few nuances darker than your skintone, without shimmer or pearl.

4.2 lid highlight

MAC Shroom - Chikuhodo Z5

where the light would naturally hit the eye area, i apply a light pearly champagne shade to enhance the natural sheen on the skin and to sculpt and brighten the eye.
i'm not too happy with my choice of MAC Shroom on that day, though. an eyeshadow with a more refined finish would've been better. sometimes i'd add a shimmery champagne cream eyeshadow on the lower waterline for an extra bright look (i like Benefit Creaseless Cream Shadow in Birthday Suit or Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream #13 for this purpose and would apply it with a brush like the Paula Dorf Eye Definer Brush).

4.3 adding depth

Maybelline Colour Tattoo in Permanent Taupe - MakeUpShow H07 Small Shader Brush

this step adds great depth and definition to the eyes, but it's so subtle that you can't really put your finger on it. with a firm and flat brush, i would apply a matte warm grey shade (i like Maybelline's cream shadow for longevity, but a powder eyeshadow like MAC Copperplate is also fine) very closely along the outer half of the upper lashline (thickens the lashline indiscernably, works as extra-subtle eyeliner to define and elongate the eye), fill in the small triangle shape on the outer corner of the lower lashline (adds depth and dimension to the eye) and meet and elongate the shadow on the outer corner. if needed, i'd blend out the edges very slightly to merge the line with my skin.

4.4 thicken lashline

MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack - Hakuhodo K005

to thicken the upper lashline and define the eye without the need of an obvious eyeline, i apply some black gel eyeliner on the upper inner rim (upper waterline) and work it into the roots of the lashes. for this task, i've yet to come across a brush more perfect than the Hakuhodo K005. it's thin, firm and smooth.
you definitely have heard of this "trick" before, but if you apply the gel eyeliner on the whole length of the upper waterline like normal, black smudges can reveal that you're wearing makeup when the time goes by. instead, just concentrate the ink on the center part above your pupil, this is less obvious but still has enough impact.

4.5 enhance lashes

Shu Uemura Eyelash Curlers - Kiss Me Heroine Make Long & Curl Mascara
  

as last step of the eye make up, i gave my lashes a good curl and applied a very waterproof & smudgeproof mascara. only one coat for a natural look.

  

my eye and face without and with this eye make up. a big difference without lots of drama.

before - after

__________step 5 - aegyo sal contour__________

NYX Blush in Taupe - Hakuhodo G5529BkSL 

on my researches on "ulzzang" beauty i came across this very weird but interesting feature: the AEGYO SAL. this means "cute skin" and names the little extra flap of skin with connective tissue and fat underneath your lower lashline. closely, it looks weird but from a distance, the aegyo sal make the eyes appear bigger and give the person a cute and youthful look (hence the name) because it mimics the puffiness you get when you smile - even if you don't.

it's not the same as eye bags or puffiness from fatigue that we want to get rid of and people, who don't have it even undergo plastic surgery to get it. i think it only works or works best on the rather plain features of an asian face. 

i have it, not too distinctly but why not get some use out of it while we're at korean makeup?

because the aegyo sal always consists of the part that catches the light and its counterpart that casts the shadow, i sometimes contour mine to enhance it. with a very small rounded brush and the nose contour powder i fill in a defined area right where the shadow of my aegyo sal is and lightly sculpt it to fake a rounder, fuller appearance. on the flap above i concentrate a light, shimmery or pearly shadow on the center of the lower lashline that reflects the light even more (step 2 of my eye make up).

aegyo sal contouring is a sensitive step similar to the nose contouring. you don't want to go too obvious (just looks weird) but even more, you don't want to go too vague because in this case, it will only look like massive dark circles. a well-brightened undereye area just underneath the aegyo sal contour is a must!

 

before and after aegyo sal contouring.

__________step 6 - blush__________

Beauty Is Life Blush in Almond - Chikuhodo Z4

now it's finally time to add some colour and life back to the face. nude blushes are suitable as well as light pinks for this child-/doll-like complexion. i went with something inbetween that looks natural on my skintone but makes me look fresh and alive at the same time. it's important not to use shimmery shades and to blend it really well into the skin.

__________step 7 - just bitten lips__________

Yves Rocher Watercolour Effect Blush Corail Nude

the final step to complete the "ulzzang" makeup are flushed lips. they should look like you have bitten on them or eaten strawberries just now. for a natural result, i wanted to retain the texture of my lips, so nothing shiny or glossy. thus, a light coral stain is the most suitable choice and it's longlasting, too. i exfoliated my lips before application to let them look fuller and smoother.
i focused to build up the saturation of the colour near the inner parts of my lips for this "just bitten" effect.

the final comparison: 

normal foundation-face & ulzzang-makeup face

please share your thoughts, i'm very curious!