Perfume Palate: A Matter of Taste [Perry Sun]

Perry Sun is the kind of girl that makes me thank the heavens for the internet (especially Twitter). When I first "met" her, she worked in Online Media Relations for LUSH Cosmetics, which she recently left to pursue another path, which may or may not involve the conspicuous consumption of mass quantities of pickles. And, like many of my online friends that I hold dearest, we made our connection first through fragrance. I soon discovered that Gorilla Perfumes at LUSH was a veritable treasure trove of excellent, inexpensive fragrances that smelled to me like more love and creative genius went into their creation than many high-priced niche firms. Perry, it turned out, was a little more fragrance-obsessed than even I realized, which only increased my fondness for her. So, look at her pretty face for a moment or two, then read on to find out more about this NYC native's olfactory story. 

First of all, please state your name and occupation:

Perry Sun, pickle aficionado experiencing a quarter-life crisis.

What is your favorite perfume at the moment? 

Orange Blossom from LUSH Gorilla Perfumes, it’s airy but substantial without being heavy.

What is your favorite fragrance house or brand of perfume?

Bond No. 9, I like Laurice’s take on different spots of the city being a born and raised New Yorker.

How often do you wear perfume, and under what circumstances do you wear it?

I wear perfume for when I need an extra boost in my day. If I know it’s going to be a long day, it helps to have something nice waft past your nose to remind you there’s more to life than work, work, work.

Is it important to you to know who the perfumer or creator is behind the perfumes you wear?

I think it adds to the appeal of the fragrance. Knowing that perfumers like Simon Constantine or Laurice Rahme or Maurice Roucel who have had years of experience crafting fantastic fragrances poured their heart and soul into the scent you’re wearing makes it a little more special. It’s hard to find something of quality or something special nowadays in the age of mass production.

Do you follow the work of certain perfumers, and if so, who?

I follow Laurice Rahme’s newest creations, just to see what nook of the city she’ll cover next. I think Ben Gorham of Byredo is just fascinating, I mean who builds a perfume around the concept of the color white?!

Think of an iconic perfume bottle design from the past. What is it?

Lanvin’s Arpege. I remember thinking “I would never have guessed it held perfume”, it reminds me of the ancient Greek amphoras you studied in art history class.

How many times a day do you estimate that you think about perfume?

Whenever I get a whiff of whatever it is I’m wearing, so probably 5-7 times a day.

Think of the last time you complimented someone on the fragrance they were wearing. Did you ask them what it was, and if so, did they tell you?

I don’t think I’ve ever asked anyone what fragrance they were wearing because most people just blurt it out after they say thank you! I also don’t know if I’d ever ask anyone what they were wearing because scent is so personal, it’d be like telling someone your bank card information.

In just three words, describe your ideal fragrance:

Fresh, mysterious and familiar.

The LUSH Life: Gorilla at LUSH Dear John and Superworld Unknown, plus 2 major skin treats

My recent obsession with LUSH continues with two more Gorilla Perfumes: Dear John and Superworld Unknown. My interest was also piqued when I read about and had the opportunity to try some of LUSH's  skin care products. The way that fragrance is weaved into these products is of importance to a scent-obsessive like myself, so I had to add in reviews for those as well. Leave it to LUSH to show me exactly what utterly delicious things I've been missing yet never had a clue existed until now. But first, the perfumes!

Dear John notes list: lime, pine, coffee, coriander, clove, cedarwood, vetiver

Dear John ($15.95- $39.95) is a gingery zinger of a fragrance and is thoroughly unisex. It's particularly wonderful for warm weather because its freshness is so intense and the drydown offers very soft, edible spices. It goes from fresh ginger to a not-too-sweet gingerbread in about 45 minutes, and it's pleasing to the senses for the entire journey. It reminds me of the course the sun takes-- from high noon until dusk, different shades of warmth are revealed as time goes on. As Dear John settles into the skin during the drydown, the clove and coriander ease their way up to the forefront, and the sharp ginger and lemon from the beginning is practically just a memory. In my opinion, this fragrance is well worth the price of admission to own a bottle. Dear John is something I can see myself wearing once in awhile, until the end of time.

Superworld Unknown notes list: cocoa, vanilla, tonka, cassie, juniper, petitgrain, neroli, lime, lemon, bergamot, rose, ylang ylang, benzoin, sandalwood

Superworld Unknown ($3.00- $49.95) seems to me like the more leathery, sex-bomb sibling to the beautiful Tuca Tuca, It's a rubbery sort of sweet, supple leather, exactly the type that made me fall hard for the avant-garde synthetics of Comme des Garcons and Le Labo. The name refers to a pop song by Norwegian singer Karin Park, but me? I think of Soundgarden of course. This is the kind of fragrance that I  might tell the world is "very me" (Hey, I just did!). Here, I think the notes list betrays what the scent actually smells like to me. There is a fleeting gourmand sweetness that really just plays into the leather. I must admit I cannot pick out about half of the listed notes. This is why I write my impressions down before I've had a chance to read the official notes list. All that aside, this is one of the most attractive, thoroughly urban, tarry, rubbery leather fragrances I've had the pleasure to wear. And yes, I have many, many others. Superworld Unknown is a must-have for me. Plus, if  it makes me think of Chris Cornell, that can only be beneficial to my mood.

Viva La 1990s!

RO'S ARGAN ingredients include: glycerine, almond oil, cypress leaf infusion, brazil nut oil, vanilla pod, fair trade shea butter, argan oil, cupuacu butter, cocoa butter, goji berry decoction, rose absolute, geranium oil, lemon oil

Ro's Argan Body Conditioner ($29.95) is a thick, rich, berry-rose scented cream that comes in a tub. At first I thought it was a body butter-type product, and then, that thing happened that always happens with LUSH products. I read the label, and it tells me to use what I'm holding in my hand in a very non-traditional way. As per the directions, after showering, I slathered Ro's Argan all over (happily, a little goes a long way), and then rinsed it off in the shower and gently blotted my skin dry with a towel. Wacky? Yeah, I know! But it's wonderful. My skin was probably softer than it's ever been in my life, AND (we've covered the wacky, now here's the crazy part)-- I absolutely love the honeyed rose scent. Is this backwards day or what? Un-rose-able me has found a rose to love in an unlikely spot. It's got a gorgeous but subtle tartness to it, and the rose is not overbearing at all, and there is a slight musky, woody depth. This is exactly how I want to smell and feel when I get out of the shower: with my skin criminally smooth, smelling clean and fresh-- not in an Irish Spring kind of way, but in the way that suits my personality. Even at my very cleanest, there will always be a bit of growl underneath.

The website recommends using their Turkish Delight Shower Smoothie before using Ro's Argan Body Conditioner. Major "don't mind if I do" moment. The scent, texture, richness and straight-up effectiveness makes Ro's Argan Body Conditioner THE essential post-shower product suitable for anyone with a heart which is still currently beating. It's just gorgeous.

ULTRABLAND ingredients include: beeswax, rosewater, almond oil, honey, fresh iris extract, glycerine, rose absolute, tincture of benzoin

Ultrabland facial cleanser ($15.95- $29.95) is exactly the kind of cleanser I'm really into lately-- the kind that is less a cleanser and more of an event. Take a little bit less than a teaspoon (that's what works for me), and take your time massaging it into dry skin. It removes makeup (eye makeup will take two rounds) and sunscreen in a flash. I use my trusty muslin face cloth and warm water to remove the cleanser, and what is revealed is the same kind of freakishly soft and smooth skin that Ro's Argan Body Conditioner gave me. It's soothing, hydrating, simple and natural, and a boon for those of us with sensitive skin, dry skin, even blemish-prone. These ingredients will take care of most of us.

There are balm cleansers out there in the market that are similar (but completely inferior, and not natural) that sell for three or four times what Ultrabland costs, and it's loaded with petrolatum/ mineral oil. It's crystal clear what the majority of beauty industry execs think of the intelligence of their target consumers. I'm just going to say this here, to make it official where I stand on this issue:
It is no longer a good idea to use petroleum-based products on your skin. It is toxic! 
There are gorgeous natural alternatives, even other synthetic alternatives, that will not hurt you. Think of petroleum-based products as the Smoke Monster from Lost. You may forget about it because it's not in your face 24/7, but it will sneak up on you and basically vaporize you one day. Was that a dramatic enough analogy? Gosh, I really miss Lost. And I really, really love LUSH.

[Samples provided by LUSH for my consideration. I am in no way affiliated with LUSH or any other company. My opinions are strictly my own.]

Gorilla Perfumes at LUSH: The Smell of Weather Turning and Tuca Tuca

I am woefully behind the pack when it comes to Gorilla Perfumes at LUSH, and with a tidy reputation for innovation and wearability that doesn't break the bank, I'm glad I got the opportunity to test a few. The scents below are my two favorites, but there are plenty of good ones left to review another day.

The Smell of Weather Turning
This is quite a remarkable fragrance that I have become rather addicted to. It is the kind of scent that would turn my head if I caught someone else's sillage whooshing on by. Initially, the camphorous blast of mint (and I think there is likely eucalyptus here as well) almost feels like too much, and then the other notes start creeping in to join the fray. The subtle sweetness of beeswax and hay (two extremely weak spots of mine) that lies just beneath the surface at every stage of wear is my favorite part. Because of the camphor effect, the oakwood comes across as a different type of wood- like cedar or hinoki- something with bite. Does it smell like weather turning? I don't know. Not where I live, anyway. Does is smell damn good? Yup. And at only 20 bucks a pop for a 10ml slim atomizer, it's a bona-fide steal. If you're looking for a new perfume that is literal and earthy and surreal and strange all at once, The Smell of Weather Turning is your man.

Notes: Oakwood, hay, beeswax, nettle, English peppermint, mint and Roman Chamomile

Final verdict: At $19.95 a pop for a slim 10ml atomizer, it's worth buying just to experience its oddness, but soon enough, you'll be spraying and sniffing with your most incredulous expression plastered across your face. Better and heaps more interesting than many perfumes that cost 5 times as much. A must-try.

Tuca Tuca
Apparently this fragrance is named after a song and a dance craze, but since I'm not familiar with it at all, I'll spare you any pithy references. I thought this would be very sweet and feminine on me, but it's got some impressive weirdness going on, and as I see it, weirdness in perfume can't be feminine or masculine, weird is just weird. There is a touch of fruity tartness (strawberry?) that is not listed in the notes list, but it's there. This is a pretty versatile, utterly wearable scent that would make a great "don't think, just spray" perfume to use just before you head out the door. The violet leaf accord lends a nice, chewy fixative for the base, and that spicy sweetness underneath is very persistent and long-lasting. So, we have chewy, spicy, sweet and weird-- what does that sound like? Cardamom cake from Ann Sathers? I'll go with that.

Notes: vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, violet leaf, ylang ylang


Final verdict: Fun, interesting, rather joyful. Once again, the price is even-right-er at $10.95 for a 10ml slim atomizer.

[samples were sent to me by the company for my consideration]