Voce: Airy Matte Skin guide

Voce's October issue had a detailed 15-step guide to creating "Airy Matte Skin" by noted Japanese makeup artist Shimada Chiaki. Matte makeup often tends to look very heavy but the key to "Airy Matte Skin" is a sheer, even application to create a natural, healthy look.

Base
Step 1: Dab small amounts of the makeup base on the forehead, cheeks and chin. Using the length of two fingers, even the base out starting from the centre of the face and moving outwards and also in an upward motion from the jawline.

Step 2: The area around the eyes is prone to oxidisation and it is also an area where many people forget to apply foundation. Using the fingertips, apply the makeup base in a light tapping motion.

Foundation
Step 3: Using your third and ring fingers, apply liquid foundation from the centre of the face towards the outer edge and also from the bottom upwards.

Step 4: Use a sponge in a rolling motion across the face to lift off excess foundation/oil.

Concealer
Step 5: Use a brush to apply concealer in a triangular area under the eyes from the inner corner to the outer corner.

Step 6: Use your finger to smoothen out the concealer in a light pressing motion for an even finish.

Step 7: Use your finger to apply a light layer of concealer on the upper eyelids.

Step 8: Use a brush to apply an illuminating concealer at the inner corners of the eyes and then use your finger to even out the application.

Step 9: Use your finger to apply a light layer of illuminator along the T-zone from between the eyebrows to vertically down the centre of the nose. This helps to create more contrast between the various areas of the face so that the face does not look so flat.

Control Color
Step 10: Apply an apricot-toned concealer at the outer and inner edges of the eyes as these are prone to oxidisation.

Powder
Step 11: Before applying loose powder, press the two sides of the powder puff together until the powder can hardly be seen. This helps to ensure an even application.

Step 12: Apply the loose powder using the powder puff in a gentle large rolling motion from the centre of the face outwards. Do not apply in a direct patting motion.

Step 13: As the eye area is prone to creasing, apply the loose powder on the eyelids using the powder puff in a gentle pressing motion.

Shading
Step 14: Apply a sheer blush on the apples of the cheeks until the area just in front of the ears using a large blush brush

Highlight
Step 15: Applying a light highlighter powder under the eyes using a small powder brush.

Further tips: To ensure an even, sheer application of foundation, do not just use one fingertip. Instead, use the length of your second and third fingers. To prevent creasing of foundation under the eyes, apply a light layer of powder using a powder puff folded in half in a gentle pressing motion.