Maison Martin Margiela Untitled: perfume without teeth

Last year, Maison Martin Margiela released Untitled, created by Daniela Andrier. I have heard so much talk about Untitled being the go-to scent for Spring (loved by mainstream fashion and beauty magazines and perfume aficionados alike), and remembered that I was given a sample by the adorable voyagetocythera, Tommy Pickles. It was months ago when his parcel arrived, but I'm only now getting around to trying Untitled again after being initially underwhelmed by it. I always like to give things a second chance, it's only fair, after all.

The opening is promising. The varied green notes give a strong impression of vetiver root (but I don't see vetiver in the notes list), watery, verdant, salty, completely gender-free. So far, so good. In the blink of an eye, the dry-down appears, and I'm left wondering where the heart is (I hear that it's "home", though). I really wish the scent were more tenacious, because I think it has potential, but ultimately it fades too quickly. A very pleasant galbanum note is soon buried in a strange sweetness, like sugar cane dipped in pine resin.

Notes listed:
galbanum, boxwood, mastic, incense, bitter orange, jasmine, cedar, musk

Now that you know that the longevity is practically nil for me, you should also know that the sillage is somewhat of a ghostly, apologetic puff. Untitled exists in a space between where the baby teeth fall out and the adult teeth grow in-- it is a gummer. Pity, because it really is pretty. I will stick with vintage Balmain Vent Vert when I need a good hit of green.

Maison Martin Margiela Untitled is available at Saks Fifth Avenue among other retailers, a 1.7 oz bottle is $100.