My Top 5 Pre-Spring Fragrances: Ode to a Chicago Thaw

[photo: Chicago's Polar Vortex via airplane by Hank Cain]

Today, all the neurons in my brain are firing in one direction-- towards Spring. I just can't help it. I know there was a huge snowfall here just earlier this week, but now it feels like Spring. I've opened the windows so that Computer Blue can investigate the tree and building denizens all around us, and get a whiff of her first real Printemps! Curtains are billowing in the breeze, Tom Petty plays on the stereo, sandalwood-scented incense wafts throughout the place and right out the window for others to enjoy. I've got on a dress that Stevie Nicks might try to snatch from me. Excitement is definitely the order of the day.

When I feel like this, I always bring out parts of my temporarily stowed-away perfume collection to see what strikes my fancy. What follows is my Top 5 list (in no particular order) of what's capturing my fancy during these unseasonably warm few days (I'm pretty sure it will all freeze over again any minute now).

1. Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris

In many ways, this perfume is about as feminine as I'll get with fragrance. This is no deep, dark elixir, but that doesn't mean that it's devoid of mystery. Its unabashed floral complexity would normally be something I might pass by, but not Impossible Iris. The ultra-modern raspberry tinge to it and the subtle pepperiness make me swoon, and when I wear it, I imagine the sophisticated, beautiful woman it was created for originally-- Ramon Monegal's wife (as an anniversary gift to her). Once my mind occupies the geography of Spain and I think of the Monegal family (extending to include everyone on staff), to wear Impossible Iris is to feel beautifully put-together, chic, clear-minded, and most of all-- to feel welcomed into Ramon Monegal's world. I absolutely treasure this fragrance and it is irreplaceable in my collection.

Oh, and if you're looking for a fragrance that very stylishly represents Pantone's 2014 color of the year, Radiant Orchid? This is it.

2. April Aromatics Jasmina

To be honest, this is not a perfume that I actually stow away for warmer weather-- I use it year-round to help me sleep or quell anxiety. It contains jasmine from India and France, ylang ylang and pink grapefruit. I wear it more often in warmer weather because I love how it smells on my skin when I'm outside. The way it mingles with fresh air makes it feel even more perfect. Not only do I feel happier when I wear Jasmina, it seems like the people around me do too. This is natural fragrance done exactly how I like it. Tanja Bochnig creates fragrances that are loaded with positive energy, and I hope there are lots of other people out there who enjoy the benefits of her broad talents as much as I do. If you're not familiar with April Aromatics, Jasmina is a great place to start, especially if you enjoy jasmine or suffer from insomnia, anxiety, or any emotional disturbances that could use some balancing. Nothing works quite as well for me-- it's nature's perfect medicine and the artisan craftsmanship is of the highest order. Bliss in a bottle.

3. Juniper Ridge Siskiyou Backpacker's Cologne
Juniper Ridge has a lot to be proud of, not least of which is the world's first (and only, as far as I know) mobile fragrance distillery. Everything they make, from soaps to incense to cologne, is wildcrafted from local, sustainably collected botanical materials. Their Siskiyou fragrance has been a favorite of mine since I first became aware of this brand. It's a scent designed around cedarwood surrounded by bright, jammy saps, spicy ginger, conifer needles and a juicy punch of citrus-- all essences native to the Pacific Northwest. I love to rake this through my hair, because it lasts longer on hair or clothes than on skin. There is more magic in this bottle than even I have words for. All I can say for sure is that if Juniper Ridge's goal is to capture various regional landscapes in an olfactory snapshot, they do that in spades. It's more than fragrance-- it's a feeling of freedom and contentment. To me, that's something you can't put a price on, but if pressed, I'd say that $55 for 1 oz is a bargain. If you're interested in Juniper Ridge's mobile distillery process and love awesome photography, do sign up for their newsletter on their website-- it's not to be missed.

4. Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo's peppery, dry Santal 33 is a very refreshing (literally) alternative to more traditional and often cloying fragrances for men or women. If you like the sharp, slightly camphor-tinged Australian sandalwood, you won't find a better version of it. Santal 33 is one of the brand's smartest fragrances- heavy on chic as well as cheek. If Juniper Ridge scents evoke landscapes, Le Labo's evoke climate. Arid or humid, overcast and gray, brightly sunny and fleeting-- their scent renditions are driven by feelings rather than concepts. Santal 33 has a persistent, spare sun shining down on the wearer. The emotional impact is intensely positive and it feels so expansive and broad, encompassing all of the most interesting facets of Australian sandalwood. For me, this baby pairs well with a white fine-gauge, deep-v tee, steel-toed boots and a studded leather jacket. The uniform of confidence. You don't need to be a tough guy/gal to pull off wearing Santal 33, though-- just let its devastating authenticity do the talking for you. Think of the strength and self-sufficiency of a tree--yours for the taking.

5. Jul et Mad Stilettos On Lex
Stilettos On Lex could easily be thought of as in the same category as Impossible Iris, meaning that it's built around an intense floral accord with accents of ripened fruit, but it doesn't end there. The shadowy corners of this fragrance don't give away its secrets-- ever. But I enjoy some intrigue and sexual power in my sillage once in awhile, and Stilettos reminds me of an ultra-modern version of the big 80s florals that my mother used to wear. In that respect, it really feels like a gift. I was obsessed with my mother's perfumes growing up, but I knew instinctively that they were not for me, nor would they ever be. I'm just too different from my mother, who possessed the kind of effortless glamour and magnetism of a true 1980s diva. Stilettos is larger than life, but not so large that it outsizes my moodiness, my sharp edges and preference for speaking without saying a word. It fills a very specific need for me to connect to my true self and my mother simultaneously. This perfume's attractiveness is off the charts. Dark skies, brilliant heart.

Tell me, what have you been wearing or thinking about wearing lately? 

[All photos are property of their respective brands and photographers. All rights reserved.]

Olfactif perfume sampling subscription service [PLUS 3-month subscription giveaway!]

The draw is now closed. Thanks to all who entered!


I love the idea of subscription boxes, and I've been tempted by more than a few. When Tara from Olfactif reached out to let me give hers a try (she's a fellow Chicagoan, by the way), I felt instantly supportive. Her goal is to provide a variety of niche fragrance samples, from the more well known to the obscure. The selection I received is titled "Vignettes of Spring", and includes three sample vials of the following:

Fig Tree by Sonoma Scent Studio (Laurie Erickson)
The Soft Lawn by Imaginary Authors (Josh Meyer)
Voleur de Roses by L'Artisan Parfumeur (Michel Almairac)

All three make sense to me presented as a spring sampler. I already had samples of Fig Tree and Voleur de Roses, but was very interested by The Soft Lawn by Imaginary Authors-- a brand that I'd not yet tried.

Imaginary Authors creator Josh Meyer

The packaging is impressive. The slide-out matte black box is something you'll want to keep, and the printed material included is lovely and professional. This is no "happy hands at home" sort of thing, it feels like a luxe little treasure.

The subscription cost is $18 a month, and if you decide to buy a full sized bottle of one of the three fragrances, that fee is applied towards your purchase. Also, the first month is FREE for everyone. There are good incentives here. Part of the experience is on the web at www.Olfactif.com, where Tara shares behind-the-scenes content about everything niche.

I think that the ideal customer for this service is the beginner to intermediate niche enthusiast, or even someone who doesn't know a thing about niche or what it means. Gift subscriptions will be available very soon, and this could potentially be a very good tool in an effort for perfume nuts to bridge the gap between themselves and friends and family who say they just don't get our obsession. Even seasoned perfume lovers can appreciate what Olfactif has to offer-- I don't know about you, but I love a surprise! You will never know what's being sent your way until you get it. That's sort of the perfume lover's equivalent of riding a rollercoaster or some other nail-biting experience. With Tara as your friendly guide, Olfactif feels more like a pal dishing about cool scents that she loves than an impersonal, generic service.

Tara from Olfactif has been kind enough to offer one reader of this blog a complimentary 3-month subscription to her perfume sampling service. All you have to do is comment below with an answer to this question:

What was the last fragrance you tried a sample of and just had to buy right away?

There will be a random drawing for the winner on Tuesday evening, April 16th at 8pm central time. I will announce in a new blog post who the winner is, and they are responsible for contacting me within two days' time at eyelineronacat at gmail dot com with their mailing information, otherwise another winner will be chosen. The winner's subscription will begin with May's selection.

Good luck to everyone! I'm off to sniff The Soft Lawn again, as it seems I can't get enough of eau de tennis balls.

[Contest is open to everyone, everywhere. Check out a recent interview with Tara on Sense of Scent, and you can follow Olfactif on Twitter HERE]

Sample subscription box provided by Olfactif free of charge for my consideration.

Paul & Joe Website Update: Carousel

The Paul & Joe website has been updated with the Carousel spring collection and new Cheek Colors. There's also a new cat-print wallpaper available to download here. Do also check out the P&J Japan Facebook page. The elephant print is so adorable, so I'll probably snag the lipstick case and Eye Color CS 082 Calliope with that print.

The new blush duos also look very tempting!

In Japan, this Happy Makeup Kit (6300yen) will be available starting 1 February. It includes any choice of a Cheek Color and Lipstick, plus a 10ml sample of the Protecting Foundation Primer 01 SPF39 PA+++ which will be released on 1 March.

Spring x Jill by Jill Stuart

Here's a close-up pic of the Jill by Jill Stuart vanity pouch that comes with the June issue of Spring. It has strawberry and leaf plastic charms at the zip in a pink print that's perfect for spring. There are also slots under the cover for brushes and mascara tubes. You can also watch a video clip of the publicist showing off the pouch here.

Majolica Majorca Majolook Trick On Review

I've been test-driving the new Majolica Majorca Majolook (Trick On) GR741 and revamped Lash Enamel Glamour Neo BK999 over the past week and I'm happy to report big huge raves for both!


First, on the Majolook GR741. It's a nifty little quad that contains 4 very wearable shades of pale bluish white, teal, dark emerald green and a pale gold Trick On Powder. I'm glad that MM has done away with the cream base/liner shades that were in previous versions of the Majolooks as those were never any good, especially the cream liners which creased and faded very quickly. MM rarely releases a green/teal-themed quad so this immediately caught my eye. Plus, it had the added allure of being limited edition. Although it's a royal shame that MM picked the prettiest quad to be limited edition, I can understand why the other two Trick On quads which are pink and brown-themed will probably sell better than the GR741. Overall, the Trick On quads are a vast improvement and return to form for MM after the lacklustre collections that MM released in 2007, some of which were too difficult to pull off for anyone over 25 years old.

I liked the silky and soft texture of the shades in the GR741 quad, which apply a bit sheer at first but can be easily layered for the desired intensity. The teal shade is not too loud or garish that it makes one look like a clown. It's actually easier to wear than MAC's famous Parrot which has more bright blue tones. The dark emerald shade in the quad is super gorgeous and a nice change from the usual black and brown liners. I didn't find anything particularly unique or special about the Trick On shade but it's still useful for adding a bit of extra sparkle at the corners or in the middle of the lid. I also liked the butterfly motif on the lid and the fact that you basically have everything you need in an ultra-light and portable compact for creating a complete eye look.

At only 1575yen (4g), this palette is great value for money and I highly recommend getting it before it sells out. GR741 is currently available on Adambeauty.com for US$19.50 inclusive of postage. That's cheaper than Ichibankao.com which is selling it for US$22.


Moving on to the Lash Enamel Glamour Neo, this is MM's volumising waterproof mascara. (Lash Expander Neo is the fibre-based lengthening mascara.) The Lash Enamel Glamour Neo comes printed with the tagline "Hope my lashes are full and smooth" on the tube. It has an unusual fine-toothed curved comb applicator that took some getting used to but it turned out to be excellent for reaching those shorter lashes at the inner corners. I also liked the fact that it was easy to build up length with the comb applicator. It also did a decent job of adding volume without the lashes looking too exaggerated or fake.

Thanks to its secret "Gloss Oil" ingredient that helps to ensure that lashes continue to look glossy even after the mascara dries, the mascara is a true glossy jet black without any greyish tones that applies very smoothly unlike Western brand mascaras which often have a dry almost-clumpy texture. Although I did have some problems with a bit of clumping but it was pretty easy to correct as all it took was a quick press of my lashes with my thumb and index finger to remove the excess mascara. Another impressive aspect of Lash Enamel Glamour Neo was that my lashes stayed curled for several hours after application of the mascara without any flaking or smearing. This is actually the first MM mascara I've ever tried so I can't say how it compares to previous MM mascaras.

Overall, I still preferred my current HG mascara, Awake All Direction Mascara which is even better in term of building long pretty lashes, but the Lash Enamel Glamour Neo comes a close second. Also, Lash Enamel Glamour is only 1260yen compared to the Awake mascara which costs a whopping 3150yen.


Check out my buddy, the Muse's blog posts on her FOTD created using Majolook GR741 and her review of the Spring collection!

Aube Spring 2008

Few of the Christmas collections have really caught my fancy this year so I've been impatiently awaiting news of the Spring 2008 collections as spring is usually the season in which most Japanese brands launch their largest collections for the year and introduce new product lines (such as a new eyeshadow palette series). Well, here's the very first glimpse of a Spring 2008 collection from Aube, which is Sofina's flagship mid-end makeup brand that is retailed in both drugstores and department stores in Japan. Aube is one of the few remaining makeup brands that are still regularly discounted by up to 30% in Japanese drugstores so its products are much more affordable compared to its competitors in the same price range such as Maquillage and Esprique Precious.

The collection will include:
1. Rouge Pure Stay longlasting lipstick
2. Impression Eyes: 5 palettes in brown, green, blue, purple and pink
3. Pon Pon Cheek: 3 shades in pink, red and orange (basically a knock-off of the YSL blush pots with the sponge applicator)
4. Mascara

The above are all permanent. There will also be a small limited edition collection that includes Jewellery Shower Eyes EX02 (white, brown and smokey grey ), Rouge Moisture lipgloss and a highlight powder. Unfortunately, one of my favourite Aube products, Glamorous Jewel Powder will be discontinued with the launch of the new Pon Pon Cheeks so do grab these before they are gone.

Coffret D'Or: Close-Up Look

This author of this Japanese blog has uploaded close-up pics of the testers for Coffret D'Or's spring collection, including all 5 eyeshadow palettes and lipstick series. She gave the line a positive review overall, noting that the eyeshadow palettes are easier to wear as they are not as intensely shimmery as T'estimo eyeshadow palettes. But personally, these are not tempting me at all as the shades look lacklustre and I hate it when palettes have the same white base shade in every palette...such a waste of space!

http://plaza.rakuten.co.jp/mothimothi/diary/200709220000/

Cosme.net Spring Products Ranking Pt.2

Cosme.net has published the second part of their new spring products ranking. Part 2 focuses on eyeshadows as ranked by different age groups. I've included the average star rating for each product. Reviewers can award between 1 to 7 stars.

For teens:

Kate Glam Trick Eyes (4.8 stars)

Aube Jewellery Shower Eyes (4.9 stars)

Maquillage Clean Contrast Eyes (4.8 stars)

Jill Stuart Brilliance Eyes (5.3 stars)

For ladies in their 20s:

Lunasol Skin Modelling Eyes (5.6 stars)

Esprique Precious Light On Eyes (4.9stars)

Dior single eyeshadow (4.6 stars)

Jill Stuart Brilliance Eyes (5.3 stars)

For ladies in their 30s:

Lunasol Skin Modelling Eyes (5.6 stars)

Testimo Frame Impact Eyes (4.6 stars)
Kate Glam Trick Eyes (4.8 stars)

For ladies in their 40s:

Esprique Precious Light On Eyes (4.9stars)

Lunasol Skin Modelling Eyes (5.6 stars)

Aube Jewellery Shower Eyes (4.9 stars)

The palettes are also ranked in terms of how shimmery and pigmented they are:

For a shimmery effect

#1 Lunasol Skin Modelling Eyes (5.6 stars)

#2 Aube Jewellery Shower Eyes (4.9 stars)

#3 Esprique Precious Light On Eyes (4.9stars)

In terms of intensity of colour:

#1 Aube Jewellery Shower Eyes (4.9 stars)

#2 Kate Glam Trick Eyes (4.8 stars)

#3 Testimo Frame Impact Eyes (4.6 stars)