Open letter to the artist working at Le Labo on Fillmore Street in San Francisco

To the creative soul at Le Labo San Francisco who drew this slightly ratty benevolent catty wearing liquid eyeliner on my envelope containing my perfume samples:

Thank you for your heavenly doodle-- it made my day. And if you would be interested in designing a logo for this blog or a tattoo for me, shoot me an email at eyeliner on a cat at gmail dot com.

Untitled Cat, by Unknown Artist at Le Labo, Fillmore St. in SF

My Top 5 Pre-Spring Fragrances: Ode to a Chicago Thaw

[photo: Chicago's Polar Vortex via airplane by Hank Cain]

Today, all the neurons in my brain are firing in one direction-- towards Spring. I just can't help it. I know there was a huge snowfall here just earlier this week, but now it feels like Spring. I've opened the windows so that Computer Blue can investigate the tree and building denizens all around us, and get a whiff of her first real Printemps! Curtains are billowing in the breeze, Tom Petty plays on the stereo, sandalwood-scented incense wafts throughout the place and right out the window for others to enjoy. I've got on a dress that Stevie Nicks might try to snatch from me. Excitement is definitely the order of the day.

When I feel like this, I always bring out parts of my temporarily stowed-away perfume collection to see what strikes my fancy. What follows is my Top 5 list (in no particular order) of what's capturing my fancy during these unseasonably warm few days (I'm pretty sure it will all freeze over again any minute now).

1. Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris

In many ways, this perfume is about as feminine as I'll get with fragrance. This is no deep, dark elixir, but that doesn't mean that it's devoid of mystery. Its unabashed floral complexity would normally be something I might pass by, but not Impossible Iris. The ultra-modern raspberry tinge to it and the subtle pepperiness make me swoon, and when I wear it, I imagine the sophisticated, beautiful woman it was created for originally-- Ramon Monegal's wife (as an anniversary gift to her). Once my mind occupies the geography of Spain and I think of the Monegal family (extending to include everyone on staff), to wear Impossible Iris is to feel beautifully put-together, chic, clear-minded, and most of all-- to feel welcomed into Ramon Monegal's world. I absolutely treasure this fragrance and it is irreplaceable in my collection.

Oh, and if you're looking for a fragrance that very stylishly represents Pantone's 2014 color of the year, Radiant Orchid? This is it.

2. April Aromatics Jasmina

To be honest, this is not a perfume that I actually stow away for warmer weather-- I use it year-round to help me sleep or quell anxiety. It contains jasmine from India and France, ylang ylang and pink grapefruit. I wear it more often in warmer weather because I love how it smells on my skin when I'm outside. The way it mingles with fresh air makes it feel even more perfect. Not only do I feel happier when I wear Jasmina, it seems like the people around me do too. This is natural fragrance done exactly how I like it. Tanja Bochnig creates fragrances that are loaded with positive energy, and I hope there are lots of other people out there who enjoy the benefits of her broad talents as much as I do. If you're not familiar with April Aromatics, Jasmina is a great place to start, especially if you enjoy jasmine or suffer from insomnia, anxiety, or any emotional disturbances that could use some balancing. Nothing works quite as well for me-- it's nature's perfect medicine and the artisan craftsmanship is of the highest order. Bliss in a bottle.

3. Juniper Ridge Siskiyou Backpacker's Cologne
Juniper Ridge has a lot to be proud of, not least of which is the world's first (and only, as far as I know) mobile fragrance distillery. Everything they make, from soaps to incense to cologne, is wildcrafted from local, sustainably collected botanical materials. Their Siskiyou fragrance has been a favorite of mine since I first became aware of this brand. It's a scent designed around cedarwood surrounded by bright, jammy saps, spicy ginger, conifer needles and a juicy punch of citrus-- all essences native to the Pacific Northwest. I love to rake this through my hair, because it lasts longer on hair or clothes than on skin. There is more magic in this bottle than even I have words for. All I can say for sure is that if Juniper Ridge's goal is to capture various regional landscapes in an olfactory snapshot, they do that in spades. It's more than fragrance-- it's a feeling of freedom and contentment. To me, that's something you can't put a price on, but if pressed, I'd say that $55 for 1 oz is a bargain. If you're interested in Juniper Ridge's mobile distillery process and love awesome photography, do sign up for their newsletter on their website-- it's not to be missed.

4. Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo's peppery, dry Santal 33 is a very refreshing (literally) alternative to more traditional and often cloying fragrances for men or women. If you like the sharp, slightly camphor-tinged Australian sandalwood, you won't find a better version of it. Santal 33 is one of the brand's smartest fragrances- heavy on chic as well as cheek. If Juniper Ridge scents evoke landscapes, Le Labo's evoke climate. Arid or humid, overcast and gray, brightly sunny and fleeting-- their scent renditions are driven by feelings rather than concepts. Santal 33 has a persistent, spare sun shining down on the wearer. The emotional impact is intensely positive and it feels so expansive and broad, encompassing all of the most interesting facets of Australian sandalwood. For me, this baby pairs well with a white fine-gauge, deep-v tee, steel-toed boots and a studded leather jacket. The uniform of confidence. You don't need to be a tough guy/gal to pull off wearing Santal 33, though-- just let its devastating authenticity do the talking for you. Think of the strength and self-sufficiency of a tree--yours for the taking.

5. Jul et Mad Stilettos On Lex
Stilettos On Lex could easily be thought of as in the same category as Impossible Iris, meaning that it's built around an intense floral accord with accents of ripened fruit, but it doesn't end there. The shadowy corners of this fragrance don't give away its secrets-- ever. But I enjoy some intrigue and sexual power in my sillage once in awhile, and Stilettos reminds me of an ultra-modern version of the big 80s florals that my mother used to wear. In that respect, it really feels like a gift. I was obsessed with my mother's perfumes growing up, but I knew instinctively that they were not for me, nor would they ever be. I'm just too different from my mother, who possessed the kind of effortless glamour and magnetism of a true 1980s diva. Stilettos is larger than life, but not so large that it outsizes my moodiness, my sharp edges and preference for speaking without saying a word. It fills a very specific need for me to connect to my true self and my mother simultaneously. This perfume's attractiveness is off the charts. Dark skies, brilliant heart.

Tell me, what have you been wearing or thinking about wearing lately? 

[All photos are property of their respective brands and photographers. All rights reserved.]

Holiday 2012 Gift Guide: Fragrance

Giving the gift of scent can be tricky. You need to know the recipient pretty well. Ideally, you'd take their personality, lifestyle and taste into account and build on it a little bit-- perhaps suggesting something new for them. Sometimes, there is subtext involved in the act of giving. If you would like to convey a sentiment in a cool and rather exciting way, perfume is just the thing to bear the message. Perfume's allure is in part due to its fragility and the indulgence of wearing something that begins to disappear as soon as you let it out of the bottle. It's a phone number written on the palm of your hand at 3am, and at its best, a safe place for the soul to rest. The way I see it, perfume chosen thoughtfully and gifted is a compliment of the highest order.

By Kilian In the City of Sin EDP ($245) and Back to Black candle ($85)
Let's start off with a bang. If the price of the gifts you are shopping for doesn't really matter, you'd be hard-pressed to do better than By Kilian's offerings. Consider a bottle of In the City of Sin, my favorite from the new collection (In the Garden of Good and Evil), with its sleek white and gold minaudiere-style box, plus the universally loved tobacco-scented Back to Black candle. If you're going for visual impact, white and gold paired with black and silver is ultra-sexy.

In the City of Sin Eau de Parfum with case

Back to Black candle

Aftelier Wild Roses Eau de Parfum 30ml ($170)
Everyone knows someone who is crazy about rose, and yet even the biggest rose fanatics may not have had the opportunity to try a natural rose composition with the complex and masterful swagger of Wild Roses. This fragrance was inspired by a variety of roses, alive and growing, with the subtleties of each variety on display-- even the dirty ones. Add to that a touch of sweet honey and a dash of rich, aromatic bliss, and you've got Wild Roses-- a fascinating study in the cultivation of the senses.

Wild Roses Eau de Parfum

Ramon Monegal Perfumes Impossible Iris 50ml EDP ($185)
Every time I indulge in Impossible Iris (which is a lot), I always exclaim how shockingly wonderful it is. It lifts my spirits immediately, yet it has a grown-up sensuality to the blend. Orris paired with raspberry has turned out to be my OMG note-pairing of the year, all because I met Impossible Iris. It was named so because the iris is rather fleeting-- it wasn't meant to last. It was originally created by Ramon Monegal as an anniversary gift for his wife, somewhat of a fragrant "love poem", but luckily, he decided to share it with the rest of the world. If the orris is fairly fleeting, the longevity of the scent overall is excellent-- its pepperiness, tea-like timbre and sharp cedar base... and that raspberry accord that is anything but treacly. Don't call this a fruity floral, buy it for someone you dearly love and call it a day.

Impossible Iris

Le Labo Patchouli 24 Eau de Parfum 50ml ($145) and Anis 24 Classic Candle ($70)
Anyone who knows me knows that I'm obsessed with Le Labo, especially due to the likes of Patchouli 24, one of the most gorgeous, rich and smoky tobacco, birch tar overdosed, tea and tonka perfumes ever. It survived a reformulation intact- as near as I can tell, only the color of the juice has changed from rich amber to pale yellow. Men and women alike love it, and it is widely considered to be Le Labo's best (I say Oud 27 ties with Patch 24, easily). Le Labo's candles are beautifully scented and simply designed, and like almost all of their labels, can be personalized for gift-giving, or for you. If you're shopping for a foodie-type, they will love the Anis 24 candle.

Neela Vermeire Creations Discovery Set 10ml set of 3 fragrances: Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling 90 euros to US (about $116.75). Set is exclusive to NeelaVermeire.com.
Neela Vermeire's singular, millenia-sweeping vision of her native land, India, is simply striking. I've adopted Trayee as one of my highest-rotation fragrances this year, but to see the whole picture, one must experience all three. All should probably be worn sparingly, so each 10ml bottle will last quite awhile. Okay, confession: I overspray. I don't do it before I go out or anything, I just like the feeling of being overwhelmed by these fragrances. I've even dreamed of them: the perfumes changed form and morphed into music. I could see the musical notes floating in the air, and could hear the tabla in the background. A woman next to me sniffed at the passing musical notes and said to me, "Ah, Mohur!". It was an extraordinary dream. A gift, actually. Which brings us full circle.... the passion and emotion in these fragrances will make even the most wizened perfume-lover weak in the knees. Trust.

Trayee, Mohur, Bombay Bling

Maria Candida Gentile travel sizes: Exultat, Cinabre, Gershwin, Barry Lyndon, Hanbury, Sideris Reg. collection 25 euros (about $32.38) for each 15ml travel spray. Large sizes available in US at IndieScents and Parfum1. 
Italian niche perfumer Maria Candida Gentile's work emerged in the US earlier this year with her initial 6 offerings, and I had a moment. It was the kind of moment where I can't believe there's not a single fragrance I can say anything negative about. Each is inspired by interesting (and sometimes unexpected) people or places, and each has a story to tell. It is the scented narrative that MCG weaves into her compositions that I love to get lost in. The travel sizes are on sale, and are a steal at 25 euros each (additional 20 euros to ship to US). Order a set for someone who appreciates the truly independent niche creators, the unusual and the free-spirited, and especially the uber-talented. And order a second set for yourself.

Exultat

Guerlain L’Heure Bleue Parfum 30ml $327 at Bergdorf Goodman
This little slice of perfection speaks for itself. I've always been partial to the vintage EDT, but the parfum version of L'HB is incredible. It teases you with warm, ripe apricot compote in the top notes and an even warmer, rounder rose in the heart. This notoriously ethereal perfume comes to life in a different way in parfum concentration. I wouldn't trade in my vintage EDT for anything, because that was the first perfume I remember picking out for myself as a teenager (oh, the Guerlain counter experience!), but if you were really quick about snatching it out of my hand and replacing it with the parfum, I would probably smile. A lot.

Guerlain L'Heure Bleue Parfum

Gorilla at LUSH Tuca Tuca 30ml bottle $29.95
Tuca Tuca is in my opinion, the best deal in fragrance at the moment. For a mere nickel under $30, you get a whole bottle of one the most sexy and distinctive perfumes I've ever tried and loved. It's the perfect black leather jacket fragrance-- it's all spicy incense, iris and violet, woods and tonka bean and it's thoroughly unisex. Gorilla at LUSH actually has about a half-dozen fragrances I think are wonderful on so many levels, but Tuca Tuca takes the cake. If you want to be funny, throw in a log of Pink LUSH Fun-- it smells very much like a sweeter version of Tuca Tuca.

Tuca Tuca Eau de Parfum

LUSH Fun- Pink (it's squishy soap!)

L’Artisan Mure et Musc Extreme scented gloves $480  
I feel an odd sense of gratitude towards L'Artisan for creating these leather gloves scented with Mure et Musc Extreme. It is a nice gesture to honor the rather humble beginnings of perfumery in Grasse, when the public demanded scented hides of all sorts. These gloves are beautiful and timeless-- the perfect spot of luxury for gifting someone extraordinary.

M. Micallef Ylang $245 for 100ml bottle at Luckyscent/ Scent Bar
I have been waiting for Ylang. Well, not Ylang specifically, but I have been holding out hope that a new Micallef creation would endear itself to me like Black Sea or Note Vanillee did a couple of years ago. Now that I think of it, it was really Martine Micallef's perfumes that kicked my niche perfume habit into high gear. The Sea collection is gone but not forgotten. Ylang is part delicate hothouse floral, part sugared coconut and aromatics-- but in the end, Ylang is simply super-feminine, definitely gourmand and absolutely delicious, and... take a moment and look at the Swarovski-ed out bottle below. Yes, this gift will look good on you no matter who you give it to. Me? This might be one I'll have to hoard in secrecy. This also comes as Ylang in Gold, which has a subtle golden shimmer added. 

M. Micallef Ylang

LeSnob : Perfume (about 6.79 GBP at Amazon.co.uk and 3rd party sellers via Amazon.com US)
Yes, I'm plugging this book again, because my friend Persolaise wrote it, and I have my very own page in it. Unfortunately it didn't even have much of a chance to get off the ground in the US, and was pulled from Amazon on the day it was due for release. The good news is that you can still buy it new at Amazon.co.uk, and it's a lovely little gift for admirers of fragrance of any ilk, and its rather upbeat and welcoming tone is refreshing.

Captain Blankenship Phosphorescent 5ml rollerball perfume ($30)
While I find the entire line of CB perfumes to be lovely, there's something about Phosphorescent...what is it? Reminiscent of the briny deep, living seaweed, deciduous needles from an unseen forest, citrus fruits and exotic flowers,  but mostly that toe-curling saltiness. This will be the fragrance I reach for in the dead of winter when my soul is crying out for warmth and/or I get my annual urge to act out scenes from H.P. Lovecraft stories. Brilliant and satisfying.

Captain Blankenship Phosphorescent

April Aromatics Deluxe Sample Set (US orders via Etsy- $128, Europe- order via AprilAromatics.com- 99 Euros)
In this deluxe sample kit, there are 9 X 2.5ml perfume sprays in a lovely boxed presentation. German perfumer Tanja Bochnig creates fragrances which are all-natural, organic or wild-crafted, cruelty and chemical/synthetics free. If you have someone in your life that is a Class A Bunny-Hugger like me, take my word for it-- this would be a particularly amazing gift. I'm admittedly very picky when it comes to naturals because I've been spoiled for awhile now. Suffice it to say that I'm impressed by the quality of these abstract watercolor washes of scent. Each one has its own charming qualities, but the real stand-outs for me are Jasmina (a perfectly bright and sunny narcotic jasmine), Nectar of Love (a strange and addictive dry, smoky tobacco Oriental), Liquid Dreams (summer fruits, delicate florals, green and fresh and cheerful), and Precious Woods (musky, woods with varying textures, animalic and intense). It's tough to walk the line between wearable and edgy, especially with natural materials, but Tanja seems very comfortable on that tight-rope.

April Aromatics Deluxe Sample Set

Are any of you planning to give the gift of perfume this holiday season? If so, please dish! 

Destination Scents: a Group Blog

Once upon a time, I would take vacations whenever I could. I loved traveling, sometimes without even really knowing where I was going, like on a cross-country road trip with no set itinerary. My favorite old haunts in Las Vegas still call out to me. I once went to London by myself, just for the heck of it. At this point in my life, I'm not able to get away for vacations much anymore, but that doesn't stop me from daydreaming about it. All the perfume-related events I've missed and the people I would love to meet-- I definitely long for that jubilant feeling that accompanies waiting for a flight at the airport. When Olfactoria revealed her choice for the theme of this particular group blog, I relished the chance to dream out loud.

Las Vegas This is a place I've been to a dozen times, but not recently enough to see The Wynn and some of the new and enticing shopping spots that have popped up. A good scent pairing for the insanely hot weather of Las Vegas would be something cheerful with juicy citrus notes that would probably need touching up throughout the day. Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine would be perfect. When I'm in Vegas, I drink coffee like it's going out of style, and it's all about staying up as late as possible so I can keep playing $2 blackjack at The Sahara. Oh, and you know I'll be at The Rio waiting backstage for my intellectual dreamboat Penn Jillette (married? who, me? eh.).

Las Vegas's finest, illusionists Penn & Teller

NYC I love this city. It's one of those places where I feel utterly at home-- I instinctually fall into line with the fast pace. I blend in there, which affords me discreet people-watching opportunities. My choice of fragrance for NYC has to be Le Labo Oud 27. I associate the scent with NYC because I always picture the Le Labo boutique in my mind briefly when I wear it. It's cool, completely urban, and it's not something you'd expect to be wafting from a woman passing you in the subway.

one of my favorite shopping destinations in NYC

Dubai I have never been to Dubai but have been invited a couple of times. Until somebody pays my way out there, I won't be going any time soon. I've been interested in visiting for some time, and I'm pretty sure I'd love it. I've heard Dubai is the spot for over-the-top luxury, so of course I'd want to put that to the test. I would bring along two Amouage fragrances to wear: the first is Opus III- it's sweet-ish, very feminine, and so delicious. The other is Opus VI, which makes me think of crushed violets and the bright pop of rose damascena ever-so-judiciously blended in. The resinous, animalic base lasts forever. Both fragrances are sheer perfection.

one of the many cool structures in Dubai

San Francisco I've only been to San Francisco once, but it was magical and left a lasting impression on me. I find it hard to describe exactly how the city makes me feel-- maybe it's just one of those things that will always defy explanation for me. In honor of my dear friend and Berkeley-based creative genius Mandy Aftel, I would have to wear Aftelier Parfum Prive. It's rich, intoxicating, luxurious and makes me think of the water. It is one of my very favorite perfumes of all time.

San Francisco

London To me, London is like New York City, but not quite as schizophrenic, and more comfortable. London is grounded and surprisingly easy to navigate (as long as you're not driving) and also encourages the bliss associated with losing track of time. I'd wear the geographically appropriate  Ormonde Jayne Woman, the fragrance that ignited my obsession with perfume to new depths. I let this perfume teach me about the experience of vivid visual imagery in relation to scent. Before I first arrived in London, my expat friend there warned me that Londoners are not very accepting of American tourists, so I was surprised to find that the locals were exceedingly kind to me. Perhaps I'm just a non-touristy tourist. Regardless, I had a boundless reserve of love for a city that in turn loved me back.

London's Fashion and Textile Museum

So tell me, what perfumes would you match up to your favorite vacation destinations? Do you have a vacation planned for the near future?


Click through to my fabulous blogging partners for more destination scents!
Persolaise
Olfactoria's Travels
Fragrant Moments

Best Fragrances of 2011

Below you'll find my 10 favorite new fragrances of 2011, in no particular order. This past year held several surprises in the fragrant universe, as well as a few personal honors for me. I was asked to join The Fragrance Foundation's Committee for Indie Fragrances, I was interviewed by Allure magazine for print and online (along with other perfume blogger pals), forged meaningful friendships with kindred spirits, and now I'm ending the year by joining a new, small collaborative blogging group consisting of myself and three other bloggers whom I hold in very high esteem (from Persolaise, Olfactoria's Travels and Fragrant Moments). We are planning on some fun group blogs for 2012, so stay tuned! Today, we are presenting our Best of 2011 lists together, and you will find links to their blogs at the bottom of this post. Year-end "best of" lists are without doubt my favorite to do, and so, without further ado, please read on to discover my creme de la creme fragrances!


Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar
notes: lemon, bergamot, citron, jasmine, orange flower, tuberose, heliotrope, vetiver, tonka bean, musk

I was enchanted with Esprit d'Oscar from the start, in a way that I never was with the original Oscar. The sparkling optimism combined with the sensuality of this flanker led me to wear it quite a bit over the past year, and I foresee my future fully stocked with it. The similarities between it and Guerlain L'Heure Bleue only urge me to love it even more.

Aftelier Oud Luban
notes: elemi, orange terpenes, blood orange, frankincense CO2, oud, opoponax, choya ral, benzoin, aged patchouli

I must admit that I had a very hard time choosing my favorite of Mandy Aftel's three new releases in 2011, because I love them all. It was Oud Luban solid perfume, however, that spoke to me in my own language. It combines two of my favorite scent elements- oud and incense, it lasts for several hours on the skin and leaves a delicious trail of smokiness everywhere you go.

Amouage Library Collection Opus V
notes: orris absolute, rum, orris concrete, rose, jasmine, agarwood, civet, dry wood accord

Opus V was somewhat of a revelation for me. Never in my life have I experienced a fragrance as overtly animalic as Opus V, and yet it retains a certain refinement at the same time. It's powerful and sexual without being the least bit vulgar. This perfume is responsible for getting me hooked on Amouage. I think the firm is thriving under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, and I look forward to future launches.

Prada Candy
notes: caramel, musks, overdose of benzoin

Prada Candy is one of the surprises of the year that I alluded to. The name and the graphics that go along with the fragrance are wildly misleading. Candy has sweetness, that much is true, but it's an extremely cozy yet streamlined scent. There is an addictive boozy effervescence about it that keeps me coming back for more.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge
notes: Moroccan amber, deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove, star anise

Perfumer Maria McElroy triumphed this year with her first launch in five years, Geisha Amber Rouge. If you love honey with your amber, this intense gem of a fragrance is mandatory. The star anise keeps the blend from being too warm, and it retains an aromatic richness throughout wear, which is actually close to 24 hours. I've not been able to stop yapping about Geisha Amber Rouge since its release, and I don't see an end to that anytime soon. Sorry.

Etat Libre d'Orange Archives 69
notes: mandarin, pink pepper, pimiento leaf, orchid, prune, incense, camphor, benzoin, patchouli, musk

I love ELdO. I don't love every single one of their fragrances, but I love them as a firm, and occasionally one of their releases will knock my socks off. Archives 69 made me giggle the first time I wore it, and in subsequent wearings, the joke wore off and I was left with a very solid, imaginative blend that I wore all summer long. In a market flooded with pink pepper and patchouli, Archives 69 stands out as a display of strength for this house.

Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Vanille
notes: Brazilian orange, Indonesian clove, petitgrain, rum extract, Bourbon vetiver, ylang ylang, Indian sandalwood, gaiac wood, vanilla absolute from Madagascar, amber, tonka bean

2011 saw the life of brilliant perfumer Mona di Orio cut short, and many (including myself) would say in the absolute prime of her creativity. The introduction of Les Nombres d'Or collection indeed heralded the golden age for Mona, and the blogosphere exploded with praise for her work from all across the globe. Vanille is my favorite release from this collection, and it reminds me somewhat of Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille, but more powerful, spicier and with stunning longevity. Longevity is a blessing with perfumes like Les Nombres d'Or Vanille because it's a ride that you never want to end.

Opus Oils Les Bohemes Dapper
notes: violet absolute, orris root, blond tobacco, sandalwood, aged dark patchouli

I am a notorious fangirl of select big houses like Guerlain, but in the end, it's the independent perfumers who torture me the most at year's end. As with Mandy Aftel's fragrances, I had a very hard time choosing just one of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes perfumes as my favorite. In my heart, though, I always knew it had to be Dapper, a berry-violet and leather concoction. I've never smelled anything like it before, and its charm and uniqueness kept it in high rotation since the very first time I wore it.

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial
notes: bergamot, orange, green notes, fruity notes, rose jasmine, iris, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, tonka bean and white musk

As much as I love Guerlain, I've never been too much of a fan of Shalimar, but I was still looking forward to Parfum Initial. My inkling that I would love it turned out to be correct. The gourmand facets of lemon curd, vanilla and puff pastry open the fragrance in a very feminine way, but the undercurrent of patchouli and vetiver allow a masculine edge to emerge. This irresistible allure is what makes this flanker a real success in my eyes.

Le Labo Santal 33
notes: Australian sandalwood, papyrus, cedarwood, cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, leather accord

Santal 33 was another surprise for me this year. I was not expecting it to be so razor sharp and refreshing, but that's exactly why it's a perfect summer fragrance. Le Labo can always be counted on to alter perceptions and push boundaries, and Santal 33 has become one of my favorites of theirs for its audacity alone. Bold, camphoraceous and full of heart, it's not a fragrance you'll soon forget.

Please visit these fabulous blogs for more Best of 2011 posts:
Persolaise
Fragrant Moments
Olfactoria's Travels

I'd like to wish all of you a Happy New Year, and my hope is that 2012 will be a prosperous and love-filled year for all!

3 Houses To Rule Them All

Recently I asked the question on Twitter: if you could only have access to the releases of three perfume houses for the rest of your life, which would they be? For me, there must be a classic line, a line that inventively uses synthetics, and an all-natural line. The three I have chosen demonstrate each respective arm of perfumery exceptionally well. There are lots of choices to suit every mood within each house, so there's no way I would get bored.

Guerlain is not without its hiccups in perfume history (especially over the past 15 years or so), but overall, it's undeniable that the classics that have come out of this house have been monuments to the raw emotions of life. As time goes on, I fall deeper and deeper in love with Guerlain.

As far as all-natural perfumers go, to my mind, there is no one better than Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes. In fact, Mandy's talent takes her out of the strictly-natural realm and lets her perform in the same arena as the big boys. She continues to ensnare new fans as her exposure grows within the perfume-loving and blogging community, and with a new fragrance launch right around the corner, I do believe that the future is looking (and smelling) awfully rosy for her.

My third and final choice has to be a house on the avant-garde side of perfumery, a house that is very comfortable manipulating synthetics and pushing all kinds of buttons and envelopes. It's got to be Le Labo. Their attitudes and practices confound some, offend others, but I cannot deny that their playfulness and wit carries over to their olfactory design aesthetic, and I love it. Besides, Oud 27 changed my life.

I must know, if you had to choose, which 3 houses would rule your kingdom?

Le Labo Santal 33: Switchblade Sibling

Well, the time has come. I've been waiting breathlessly for Le Labo's Santal 33 since I first heard they were taking the concept from their popular Santal 26 candle and tweaking it to create a unique perfume. This moment is the equivalent of my favorite band releasing a new album after a break of several years; I'm at once terribly excited and terribly terrified. What if I hate it? Will I raise my fists to the heavens and curse with tears streaming down my face? As usual, the stress is all for naught. Le Labo has created another very memorable fragrance that I will love wearing during every season, but especially summer.

When first sprayed, I instantly get a couple of things: the intense sharpness of Australian Sandalwood along with cedar to intensify it (good lord, the cedar is stunning), and a cool, camphorous blast. It almost feels cool on the skin too (but there's a chance I'm imagining that because I'm really getting into this). As the heart approaches, you can tell that it's not going to be as overwhelmingly powerful as Patchouli 24 or Oud 27, and that's okay, because I love and own those two perfumes already, I wanted something different.

While the woods and camphor (much like an unlit menthol cigarette) are the dominating notes, I can detect soft violet and iris in the backdrop, adding a rather charming element to the scent. The initial masculinity of the blend is tamed just slightly as the florals emerge and the camphor quiets down. I'm almost certain I smell vetiver as well, and it's lovely. There is supposed to be a smoky element to Santal 33, and I do not get that at all. Another unlisted note is leather, and it's not the leather I expected. In fact, it's more of a suede to me, the kind that often accompanies violet and iris. There's a reason these notes work so well together, and I'm not a perfumer or a chemist, so I'll leave that idea hanging in the air.

The ad copy on this fragrance has to do with The Marlboro Man, and the romantic image of the American West. I don't really get the connection once I'm smelling it on my skin, but I will say this, Santal 33 would smell amazing on a man, I just know it. It's also wonderful for people who love to toy with gender in perfume.

As is standard for Le Labo perfumes, Santal 33 isn't all about sandalwood. In fact, it only really starts to show itself in a familiar form after about 45 minutes of wear. It's not the smooth, creamy almost nutty quality of Indian Sandalwood. Australian Sandalwood (bolstered by cedar and papyrus) will cut you with a switchblade, old-school style. I can say with certainty (and may it be a warning for some of you): if you dislike the smell of camphor, stay away. Stay far away. It doesn't ever go away. I personally can't get enough, and am looking forward to a lot more time with Santal 33 to draw out any other peculiarities that I missed the first time around.

"Switchblade Sue Will Cut You" by Arabella Proffer

Creator Frank Voelkl does it again, two perfumes in a row that I love (the first being Esprit d'Oscar). He's definitely on a roll this year and has created something fresh for Le Labo. Santal 33 is modern, directly in line with the Le Labo aesthetic, and wholly original. My best guess is that Santal 33 will not quite enjoy the popularity of Patchouli 24 or Oud 27, but it will grow to legendary status among a select group. There's just no way to please everyone.


notes list: cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, sandalwood, papyrus, cedar


Le Labo Santal 33 is available at lelabofragrances.com: 15ml bottle for $58, 50ml for $145, larger bottles also available. 


[bottle purchased by me for my own personal use]

Le Labo Cuir 28 Dubai city exclusive due out this month: Dec. 25 2010

Dec 25, 2010 2:29 AM

by Carrie Meredith

From Edouard Roschi:
"We are working on an exclusive scent for both Dubai and Abu Dhabi, as part of our "city exclusives" range - which we have already put out in six cities - with the Dubai scent hopefully ready for release this December. The scent is called Cuir 28 and will contain woody and spicy tones."


Needless to say, I am hot on the heels of this one. While it's true I have endeavored to collect every Le Labo scent made even if only in sample form in most cases, the thought of a Le Labo leather fragrance is almost too much for me to bear. I believe it has currently been released for sale at the Paris Gallery Le Labo shop in Dubai. 


I've already spoken with The Perfumed Court via email, and they seem uncertain at best as to whether or not they will be able to secure any bottles.  On that note (pun intended), if anyone can help me track down a sample or full bottle, I'll be forever indebted to them.