The Best of 2012: Fragrance

2012 was a fabulous year for fragrance, and I didn't even get to try half of all the launches that I wanted to. I took great pains to create this list in order for it to reflect the scents that have made the biggest impact on me in various ways this past year. Some have become an indispensable part of my daily life, others so precious that I'll only break them out once in awhile, and a couple that I think are profoundly interesting but that I might not wear much myself. In any case, they are all noteworthy, and they are listed below in no particular order.



Neela Vermeire Trayee
Neela Vermeire Creations kicked off the year in perfume in a very attention-grabbing way with the launch of her initial trio: Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling. While all three are beautiful, for my tastes, Trayee is one of the best perfumes I have ever smelled and is in a class of its own. Intended to represent the Vedic era of ancient Indian history, it definitely inspires in me what could definitely be considered spiritual bliss. Green cardamom pods, milky, cinnamon-spiked rice and a ganja accord are just a few of the highlights which add up to the sum of this truly enchanting, wholly unique perfume.

Ramon Monegal Cuirelle
I have worn Cuirelle more than any other perfume in the past year due to its versatility and perfect, genderless beauty. Its bright, positively charged shock of Somalian incense, leather and traditional floral heart notes never fails to lift my spirits. Everyone I know who has tried it has been taken in by its inviting, spiced, cashmere-like warmth. This is one perfume I don't intend to ever go without if I can help it.

Phaedon Grisens
This fragrance brandishes its sandalwood in a very intoxicating way, combining it with incense notes (yes, more incense, and there's more to come). This is a divine perfume that is so wildly attractive, it borders on an addiction for me. If you are a true lover of sandalwood and lament its scarcity as I do, buy Grisens. I'm not certain whether the sandalwood is the result of aromachemicals or not, but I don't care, and you won't either. Trust me.

Maria Candida Gentile Lady Day
The impossible has happened. I've found a gardenia-based perfume that I love. Why has Lady Day broken through a wall where other gardenias have feared to merely approach? It's because of its fresh angle. What Sheldrake did for tuberose with Tuberose Criminelle is what Italian artisan perfumer Maria Candida Gentile has done for gardenia. It's not for those looking for a traditionally pretty floral perfume-- Lady Day's appeal lies in its camphorous growl and its sharp, leafy edge. Maria has taken certain fresh facets of the flower (still firmly planted in the ground) and exaggerated them to stunning effect. A beautiful tribute, just as unique as its namesake, Billie Holiday.

By Kilian Amber Oud
Amber Oud is the most recent addition to Kilian Hennessy's Arabian Nights Collection, and it stands out from the crowd. The words "Amber" and "oud" hardly begin to describe the transcendent nature of this perfume. It begs to be explained in Aramaic or Sanskrit, neither of which I can touch. It reminds me of  a beautiful, dark-haired man or woman of ancient royal lineage, resplendent in earth-toned silks and adorned with a diadem made of burnished gold, pale topaz and sapphires. Not of this world, yet somehow, perfectly representative of it. It's very much worth the hefty price tag, and more. Certainly one of Calice Becker's best compositions of all time.

Aftelier Sepia
Sepia is the perfect combination of all the things I love most about Mandy Aftel's body of work and perfumery style. High quality, substantial natural essences are combined in such a way as to remove the excess weight of them and push forward a decidedly ethereal, finely detailed aesthetic. Sepia was inspired by one of Aftel's obsessions- California ghost towns. As the more volatile (mostly fruity) components of the fragrance change and fade, the bones of the composition is exposed: honeyed resins, dry, dusky  woods and the breath of layer upon layer of warm, earthy delights- such as ambergris and oud. Sepia has claimed its stake as a superstar in Aftelier's already stellar lineup.

JUL ET MAD Stilettos on Lex
New French brand JUL ET MAD came onto the scene with a very refreshing combination of romance and reality, as well as a nicely edited concept for their collection. Their first three fragrances are a chronological and geographical charting of creators Julien and Madalina's real-life love story. Stilettos on Lex represents the initial phase of seduction, and once you experience this masterful tuberose-centered perfume, you'll understand why. It manages an impressive level of sophistication while unabashedly flaunting its sensuality-- just like a great pair of Louboutins. Stilettos is tart on top, coolly floral in the middle and has a smooth, rich base. The raw materials are of excellent quality and are blended with great skill.  My hope is that a light will now shine brightly on the talent of Robertet perfumer Dorothee Piot, who authored all three JUL ET MAD creations.

Thierry Mugler Taste of Fragrance: Alien
Mugler's Limited Edition Taste of Fragrance collection was overall, quite interesting. My favorite of the bunch is Alien. The original Alien doesn't do a whole lot for me, but it's pleasant enough. This iteration, however, feels extraordinary: sweet bitter almond scented poisoned buttercream, cherries macerated in Chartreuse liqueur, fine hides impregnated with violet and orange blossom and fashioned into saddles. Its an awfully strange perfume and stokes the imagination into creating wild narratives-- which is precisely the reason Mugler's fragrances and couture have stood the test of time.

Amouage Opus VI
Well, I knew it was going to happen sooner or later. My odd-numbered Opus fetish has ended. I was starting to think Numerology was behind it all, until VI came along and convinced me that you can't really put a number on what the heart wants, anyway. Opus VI from The Library Collection is a very appealing combination of peppery, anisic sweet warmth and a variety of resins, musks and woods that Amouage fans will recognize. What makes VI special in my eyes is the marriage of its nose-tickling, eyelash-curling jolt of pepper and the cool, sweet marzipan-- it's a real treat to enjoy them simultaneously. This is gold to the fragrance-obsessed.

April Aromatics Calling All Angels
Calling All Angels is the first (and only, thus far) in the Angel series of fragrances created by natural perfumer Tanja Bochnig. Yet another perfume on my list that is based around incense, this one is starkly different from the others. It has the power of evoking the very dry, sweet smoke of fine incense instead of just the materials that comprise the incense. Angels' warm, arid amber qualities inspire the feeling of being protected, and its aromatic leanings are immediately comforting.  If you are a lover of amber and/or incense fragrances, this is a must-try. If you don't care for natural perfumes, try it anyway. This will likely be the one to change your mind.

Please visit the year-end posts of the other members of this blogging group as well (as if you could resist):
Persolaise
Fragrant Moments
Olfactoria's Travels

Amouage Interlude Woman: a tall drink of tamarind

Not too long ago, Creative Director of Amouage Perfumes Christopher Chong told me that Interlude Woman would probably be the first main collection fragrance that I'd fall in love with. My love for The Library Collection goes very deep and is well known, and as each Opus is released, the obsession grows deeper. While Christopher approves of my slightly raunchy taste in fragrance, he somehow knew that Interlude's odd yet subtle beauty would not escape me. The truth is that I've never smelled anything like it. I cannot even find a reference point using any other fragrances to help me describe it, so I picked out a few of my favorite things about Interlude to tell you about.

Interlude Woman notes: bergamot, grapefruit, ginger, tagete (marigold), frankincense, rose absolute, orange blossom, helichrysum, jasmine, opoponax, vanilla, benzoin, amber, sandalwood, agarwood, oakmoss, leather, tonka bean, musk, animalic

When I first spray it, I sense the presence of a giant tamarind flavored Chupa Chups lollipop. I don't just see and smell it, it practically gets into bed with me. It clocks in at over six feet tall and has a size 12 shoe (I know). Interlude is all exotic dried fruits, candies, powdered ginger and juice drinks. When I think of that burnt-caramel brown shade of the always-bubbling tamarind fountain drink at The Burrito House, the image collapses into the soft, sticky flesh underneath the rough skin of a dried Medjool date, then back to that strange candy again.

Tamarind Candy

Tamarind Juice

As is custom with Amouage, the maximalist notes list proclaims many subtleties, but for this one, I'm keeping my interpretation simple. It's like one giant thought that I might try not to think about, but the more I try not to think about it, the more I see it- the larger amount of space it requires. So I've settled nicely into it. It's the happiest Amouage fragrance I've tried yet- it's still got its innocence. The zing of the ginger and citrus gives away the fact that our fair Interlude Woman is not quite yet a woman, but her wedding day is not far off (so says the gentle smokiness in the base).

I love to read Amouage ad copy after I've written a review of the scent, because I don't want it to unintentionally influence my writing. Because of that practice, my words never seem to coincide with the intended artistic theme, but the primary emotion and the raw instincts are usually quite the same.

After I'd worn Interlude Woman several times, I started to smell other things. Not giant Mexican lollipops this time, but sweet red bean cakes and leather, scented rubber erasers, salted melon, assorted dried fruits served in a wooden bowl with  light savory herbs on the table. It draws me in with a deft hand.

The sillage is moderate and longevity average (less than most Amouages but good overall). I would recommend that everyone sample Interlude Woman, primarily because there is nothing else like it. Its uniqueness stands out not only among other Amouage fragrances but in the market at-large. It makes for an utterly charming and unforgettable fragrant detour.

Amouage Interlude Woman can be purchased at Amouage.com.
[sample provided by Amouage for my consideration]

Destination Scents: a Group Blog

Once upon a time, I would take vacations whenever I could. I loved traveling, sometimes without even really knowing where I was going, like on a cross-country road trip with no set itinerary. My favorite old haunts in Las Vegas still call out to me. I once went to London by myself, just for the heck of it. At this point in my life, I'm not able to get away for vacations much anymore, but that doesn't stop me from daydreaming about it. All the perfume-related events I've missed and the people I would love to meet-- I definitely long for that jubilant feeling that accompanies waiting for a flight at the airport. When Olfactoria revealed her choice for the theme of this particular group blog, I relished the chance to dream out loud.

Las Vegas This is a place I've been to a dozen times, but not recently enough to see The Wynn and some of the new and enticing shopping spots that have popped up. A good scent pairing for the insanely hot weather of Las Vegas would be something cheerful with juicy citrus notes that would probably need touching up throughout the day. Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine would be perfect. When I'm in Vegas, I drink coffee like it's going out of style, and it's all about staying up as late as possible so I can keep playing $2 blackjack at The Sahara. Oh, and you know I'll be at The Rio waiting backstage for my intellectual dreamboat Penn Jillette (married? who, me? eh.).

Las Vegas's finest, illusionists Penn & Teller

NYC I love this city. It's one of those places where I feel utterly at home-- I instinctually fall into line with the fast pace. I blend in there, which affords me discreet people-watching opportunities. My choice of fragrance for NYC has to be Le Labo Oud 27. I associate the scent with NYC because I always picture the Le Labo boutique in my mind briefly when I wear it. It's cool, completely urban, and it's not something you'd expect to be wafting from a woman passing you in the subway.

one of my favorite shopping destinations in NYC

Dubai I have never been to Dubai but have been invited a couple of times. Until somebody pays my way out there, I won't be going any time soon. I've been interested in visiting for some time, and I'm pretty sure I'd love it. I've heard Dubai is the spot for over-the-top luxury, so of course I'd want to put that to the test. I would bring along two Amouage fragrances to wear: the first is Opus III- it's sweet-ish, very feminine, and so delicious. The other is Opus VI, which makes me think of crushed violets and the bright pop of rose damascena ever-so-judiciously blended in. The resinous, animalic base lasts forever. Both fragrances are sheer perfection.

one of the many cool structures in Dubai

San Francisco I've only been to San Francisco once, but it was magical and left a lasting impression on me. I find it hard to describe exactly how the city makes me feel-- maybe it's just one of those things that will always defy explanation for me. In honor of my dear friend and Berkeley-based creative genius Mandy Aftel, I would have to wear Aftelier Parfum Prive. It's rich, intoxicating, luxurious and makes me think of the water. It is one of my very favorite perfumes of all time.

San Francisco

London To me, London is like New York City, but not quite as schizophrenic, and more comfortable. London is grounded and surprisingly easy to navigate (as long as you're not driving) and also encourages the bliss associated with losing track of time. I'd wear the geographically appropriate  Ormonde Jayne Woman, the fragrance that ignited my obsession with perfume to new depths. I let this perfume teach me about the experience of vivid visual imagery in relation to scent. Before I first arrived in London, my expat friend there warned me that Londoners are not very accepting of American tourists, so I was surprised to find that the locals were exceedingly kind to me. Perhaps I'm just a non-touristy tourist. Regardless, I had a boundless reserve of love for a city that in turn loved me back.

London's Fashion and Textile Museum

So tell me, what perfumes would you match up to your favorite vacation destinations? Do you have a vacation planned for the near future?


Click through to my fabulous blogging partners for more destination scents!
Persolaise
Olfactoria's Travels
Fragrant Moments

Amouage Wants YOU!

I know that many of my readers are not just familiar with Amouage, but are thoroughly enchanted with the brand. Therefore, I thought you'd want to get in on voting for them for a coveted Details.com Grooming Award. The incense-based Jubilation XXV has received the nod.

CLICK HERE TO VOTE!

Creative Director Christopher Chong thanks you!

Play it again: Amouage Library Collection Opus VI

My love, lust and adoration of Amouage's Library Collection continues with the recent release of Opus VI, a fragrance without gender but filled to overflowing with emotion. After Opus V came out, I was certain that it was my special scent, and I'd never love another Amouage that much. I should know by now not to think in terms of absolutes when pondering fragrance. Perfume is a truly mercurial element that is entirely dependent on its creator that sets it free into the world, as well as the people who buy and interpret that scent for themselves. These two universes do not often intersect with ease and has the potential to foster feelings of alienation, but the thread that binds us all together is strong. It is made of shades of gray, it is irrational, it is passion and it is love. A beautiful perfume indelibly marks everyone who submits to it, and whether the scent becomes legendary or not does not matter. Opus VI secretly stokes my subconscious desires as only one other fragrance has done in the past-- Opus V. Are you wondering if I love them equally? I've been wondering the same thing myself.

Notes: Sichuan pepper, incense, bay rum, periploca (silk vine), cypriol, patchouli, ambranum (synthetic amber), Z11 (synthetic dry wood), sandalwood and cistus labdanum

Perfumers: Dora Arnaud & Pierre Negrin

I find that the notes list for almost every Amouage fragrance is only a part of the story, and I'm sure that's done deliberately. Creative Director Christopher Chong knows how to hold the public's interest by not revealing too much. And yet, he has been very much in support of transparency. An example of this is how some of the synthetic notes are officially listed along with some natural ones. As a consumer, I feel that the firm is giving consumers more credit than many other firms do. We're not being dragged towards being force-fed some abstract, phony story built on a shaky concept. There are strong aesthetics behind every Library Collection fragrance, and while each can be said to have a theme, in many ways, it is the wearer who is challenged to create their own story from the perfume. And if there's one thing perfume-obsessed people can do, it's spin a yarn.

Opus VI begins in a feminine vein with (unlisted) notes of jammy damask rose, orris, violet, jasmine grandiflorum and a light dusting of powdered honey. Amouage's famous frankincense-based incense accord is present from beginning to end, as are the very broad but lightweight woods. The amber accord is seamlessly blended into the base and I do not find that it's in the least overwhelming. In fact, I wouldn't mind if the amber were amped up a little more. No matter which floral elements are used in any Amouage blend created in the past few years, it is the uncommon, modern and unmistakable base that lasts for so long and is so recognizable. Notes will change from blend to blend, but they all exist on the same vibrational plane. The persistent and pleasurable thrum of woods, amber and incense with a tiny hint of sweetness by way of tonka or vanilla signals the arrival of the newest entry in The Library Collection. Opus VI is about as good as it gets for my tastes. 

[sample sent to me by the company. I unfortunately have no information on when Opus VI will be available for sale in the US, but keep your eyes peeled at ParfumsRaffy.com]

Packing for the World's Lamest Vacation

Tomorrow morning, I'll be heading to the hospital for a routine surgical procedure-- I'm having my gallbladder removed. It's given me so much trouble recently and made me so sick, that I'll be relieved to get it out of me. My surgeon and surgical team are super cool, I like the hospital where I'll be, and I have full confidence in the staff. But I'm still nervous. All I can think about is what perfume and skin care products I'm going to bring with me. Distracting myself with such thoughts is certainly my self-preservation kicking in.

Just hold still... this won't hurt a bit

Since I can't bring my cat Troutie (the perfect creature comfort creature), I'm going to bring a small variety of perfumes most of which are made by hand, by people I care about and who care about me. It's all about good vibes-- bottled.
Here's the short list:

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge: it's in a roll-on bottle so travels well, has maximum impact with minimal sillage, and it acts as a cashmere blanket for my soul. Prediction: When the nurses get close enough to me, they will want to know what I'm wearing and where they can buy it.

Aftelier Oud Luban: It's in solid form, another great traveller. It's warm and cozy but also edgy and smoky. It reminds me of the best parts of myself, and it feels like an extension of Mandy. It's the best of both worlds. Prediction: My husband will comment on how amazing it smells. He always does, and it's gratifying when he notices and comments on whatever scent I'm wearing.

Opus Oils Giggle Water: Another roll-on bottle, this time filled with a cheerful orange blossom scent spiked with Kedra Hart's signature. a long-lingering soft musk. It makes me feel like the sun is out and I'm being warmed by its rays. A perfect reflection of Kedra's personality-- playful and engaging with a bit of the animal thrown in for good measure. Prediction: Men comment on this one. If I were single, I think I could feasibly get myself a surgeon  or anesthesiologist boyfriend.

Now, on to the skin care oils or balms. I said I'd bring two- one for face, one for body, but I don't think I can stick to two. Here are my must-haves:

Decleor Angelique Night Balm: I use it over retinol cream every night, and when I wake up in the morning and look in the mirror, I am very, very happy with what I see. Hydrates and protects to the max. Superb!

Aftelier Wild Orange Face Elixir: A perfect light to medium weight oil that my skin adores, and the fragrance makes me swoon. Patchouli and Cedarwood join the Wild Orange to facilitate the ideal indulgent skin care ritual. I use what's leftover on my hands to massage into my cuticles. It works even better than my expensive Decleor cuticle oil.

Red Flower Essential Omega Fresh Berry Oil: I can use this to soothe irritations and moisturize my face and body. I love the scent, which smells like pulverized berry seeds, a tiny bit of mint and a little bit of brightness from bergamot. It's a truly elegant multi-use oil that I've come to rely heavily on.

Ole Henriksen Lavender Body Oil: Since my pal Nav was so nice to send me a giant vat of this gorgeous stuff, I'm partying like it's 1999. I can only imagine the dry air in the hospital, and what sort of odors it will carry, and lavender is the perfect bodily spell to cast in order to protect my poor nose from any unwanted odors. Lavender: it's not just for dinner anymore.

I'm skipping the retinol, so that leaves room for one more thing... more perfume!

Amouage Library Collection Opus VI has been gobbling up all my stress and anxiety lately. I can't believe I'm saying this, but I might love it more than Opus V. Did you hear that, Mr. Chong? It's big, it's magnificent and it has unexpected facets that keep me interested. Full review to come soon. Prediction: If I'm feeling well enough, I will wear this, and others may be lucky enough to smell it because it does have some throw.

Bringing all these scented treasures with me is my way of protecting my state of mind in an unpredictable environment. They are my instruments to create balance and harmony-- it's the only healthy way to self-medicate that I know of, what about you?

EDIT 3/11/12: In the wake of The Great Hospital Fiasco of 2012, my skin went haywire. Within hours of entering the hospital, my cheeks and chest started reddening, and it only got worse from there. I have no idea what it is that made my skin freak, but I'm pretty sure it's airborne. I had my elite arsenal of skin care products at hand that temporarily soothed and hydrated for the longer term, but I've still got rosacea-like blotchiness on my face. I've never had rosacea before, but it wouldn't surprise me if I start getting it regularly now. Did I say that I loved that hospital and had faith in the staff? I retract all such complimentary statements. My surgeon is a badass and I like him quite a bit. Pretty much everyone else can go jump in the lake.
*CURTSY*

Best Fragrances of 2011

Below you'll find my 10 favorite new fragrances of 2011, in no particular order. This past year held several surprises in the fragrant universe, as well as a few personal honors for me. I was asked to join The Fragrance Foundation's Committee for Indie Fragrances, I was interviewed by Allure magazine for print and online (along with other perfume blogger pals), forged meaningful friendships with kindred spirits, and now I'm ending the year by joining a new, small collaborative blogging group consisting of myself and three other bloggers whom I hold in very high esteem (from Persolaise, Olfactoria's Travels and Fragrant Moments). We are planning on some fun group blogs for 2012, so stay tuned! Today, we are presenting our Best of 2011 lists together, and you will find links to their blogs at the bottom of this post. Year-end "best of" lists are without doubt my favorite to do, and so, without further ado, please read on to discover my creme de la creme fragrances!


Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar
notes: lemon, bergamot, citron, jasmine, orange flower, tuberose, heliotrope, vetiver, tonka bean, musk

I was enchanted with Esprit d'Oscar from the start, in a way that I never was with the original Oscar. The sparkling optimism combined with the sensuality of this flanker led me to wear it quite a bit over the past year, and I foresee my future fully stocked with it. The similarities between it and Guerlain L'Heure Bleue only urge me to love it even more.

Aftelier Oud Luban
notes: elemi, orange terpenes, blood orange, frankincense CO2, oud, opoponax, choya ral, benzoin, aged patchouli

I must admit that I had a very hard time choosing my favorite of Mandy Aftel's three new releases in 2011, because I love them all. It was Oud Luban solid perfume, however, that spoke to me in my own language. It combines two of my favorite scent elements- oud and incense, it lasts for several hours on the skin and leaves a delicious trail of smokiness everywhere you go.

Amouage Library Collection Opus V
notes: orris absolute, rum, orris concrete, rose, jasmine, agarwood, civet, dry wood accord

Opus V was somewhat of a revelation for me. Never in my life have I experienced a fragrance as overtly animalic as Opus V, and yet it retains a certain refinement at the same time. It's powerful and sexual without being the least bit vulgar. This perfume is responsible for getting me hooked on Amouage. I think the firm is thriving under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, and I look forward to future launches.

Prada Candy
notes: caramel, musks, overdose of benzoin

Prada Candy is one of the surprises of the year that I alluded to. The name and the graphics that go along with the fragrance are wildly misleading. Candy has sweetness, that much is true, but it's an extremely cozy yet streamlined scent. There is an addictive boozy effervescence about it that keeps me coming back for more.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge
notes: Moroccan amber, deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove, star anise

Perfumer Maria McElroy triumphed this year with her first launch in five years, Geisha Amber Rouge. If you love honey with your amber, this intense gem of a fragrance is mandatory. The star anise keeps the blend from being too warm, and it retains an aromatic richness throughout wear, which is actually close to 24 hours. I've not been able to stop yapping about Geisha Amber Rouge since its release, and I don't see an end to that anytime soon. Sorry.

Etat Libre d'Orange Archives 69
notes: mandarin, pink pepper, pimiento leaf, orchid, prune, incense, camphor, benzoin, patchouli, musk

I love ELdO. I don't love every single one of their fragrances, but I love them as a firm, and occasionally one of their releases will knock my socks off. Archives 69 made me giggle the first time I wore it, and in subsequent wearings, the joke wore off and I was left with a very solid, imaginative blend that I wore all summer long. In a market flooded with pink pepper and patchouli, Archives 69 stands out as a display of strength for this house.

Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Vanille
notes: Brazilian orange, Indonesian clove, petitgrain, rum extract, Bourbon vetiver, ylang ylang, Indian sandalwood, gaiac wood, vanilla absolute from Madagascar, amber, tonka bean

2011 saw the life of brilliant perfumer Mona di Orio cut short, and many (including myself) would say in the absolute prime of her creativity. The introduction of Les Nombres d'Or collection indeed heralded the golden age for Mona, and the blogosphere exploded with praise for her work from all across the globe. Vanille is my favorite release from this collection, and it reminds me somewhat of Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille, but more powerful, spicier and with stunning longevity. Longevity is a blessing with perfumes like Les Nombres d'Or Vanille because it's a ride that you never want to end.

Opus Oils Les Bohemes Dapper
notes: violet absolute, orris root, blond tobacco, sandalwood, aged dark patchouli

I am a notorious fangirl of select big houses like Guerlain, but in the end, it's the independent perfumers who torture me the most at year's end. As with Mandy Aftel's fragrances, I had a very hard time choosing just one of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes perfumes as my favorite. In my heart, though, I always knew it had to be Dapper, a berry-violet and leather concoction. I've never smelled anything like it before, and its charm and uniqueness kept it in high rotation since the very first time I wore it.

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial
notes: bergamot, orange, green notes, fruity notes, rose jasmine, iris, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, tonka bean and white musk

As much as I love Guerlain, I've never been too much of a fan of Shalimar, but I was still looking forward to Parfum Initial. My inkling that I would love it turned out to be correct. The gourmand facets of lemon curd, vanilla and puff pastry open the fragrance in a very feminine way, but the undercurrent of patchouli and vetiver allow a masculine edge to emerge. This irresistible allure is what makes this flanker a real success in my eyes.

Le Labo Santal 33
notes: Australian sandalwood, papyrus, cedarwood, cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, leather accord

Santal 33 was another surprise for me this year. I was not expecting it to be so razor sharp and refreshing, but that's exactly why it's a perfect summer fragrance. Le Labo can always be counted on to alter perceptions and push boundaries, and Santal 33 has become one of my favorites of theirs for its audacity alone. Bold, camphoraceous and full of heart, it's not a fragrance you'll soon forget.

Please visit these fabulous blogs for more Best of 2011 posts:
Persolaise
Fragrant Moments
Olfactoria's Travels

I'd like to wish all of you a Happy New Year, and my hope is that 2012 will be a prosperous and love-filled year for all!

Holiday Gift Guide 2011: The Most Covetable Fragrant Gifts

All year long I've been gathering intel on what I consider to be the most tantalizing, squeal-inducing gifts, jotting down notes on everything that gives me a thrill. What follows is a list of my favorites paired with the type of person that might enjoy each gift the most.

For your favorite xenophile luxury junkie:
Amouage Jubilation 25 Candle with holder (available at Amouage.com for 165 euros, candle by itself also available for 120 euros. Available in the US at Lady Ruth Perfumes for $220)
Arguably the finest incense-y candle you will ever come across. It looks every bit as beautiful as it smells.

For the boyfriend or husband who really needs to toss that bottle of cologne you hate (or you'll toss it for him):

Soivohle Transcendental Musc Pour Homme ($135 for 35ml spray at LizZornPerfumes.com)

Welcome to the 21st century, honey! This fragrance is a modern take on musk. It's fresh, addictive and will increase snuggleability by about 1000%.

For the frustrated city-bound nature worshipper:
Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Natural Room Spray $15, Soap $8, Yuba solid perfume $65 (at juniperridge.com)
Place these three things together in a pretty gift bag and give to the nearest wistful city slicker you can find. There's no substitute for the beauty of the Pacific Northwest, but all of Juniper Ridge's products are created from that environment. They also donate a part of their proceeds to environmental conservation for the region. It's a win-win for everyone- stunning, resinous, woody natural fragrances for you, and much needed help for the environment. Juniper Ridge is one of my best discoveries of the year.

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Room Spray

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Soap

Juniper Ridge solid perfume

For someone who works with their hands a lot (and unfortunately, it shows):
Becca & Mars 3 Piece Holiday Hand Candy set ($25, scents are: Orange Clove, Peppermint Vanilla, Winter Night)
Becca & Mars make the most amazing all-natural sugar hand scrubs, and this set of three jars will make anyone happy who needs some serious hand-smoothing action and would like to smell festive while doing it. You can also split up the set for smaller (yet still fantastic) gifts.

For the lady who was most certainly a flapper in a past life:
Opus Oils Les Bohemes deluxe coffret (10) 1 dram roll-on  bottles (in oil or alcohol base, your choice. $300 available through Opus Oils Etsy site)
I thought about choosing only a few of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes line to feature, but I am inclined to feel that would be a crime. This is a set of all ten fragrances in dram roll-on bottles, and they are designed to be layered together or worn alone. The whole line is brilliant and executed with a sense of fun that is infectious.

For the dedicated but persnickety perfume enthusiast:
Aftelier Oud Luban solid perfume ($210 for 1/4 oz at Aftelier.com)
Yes, I can name a dozen people I know who are like this, all of whom I adore (and okay, I might be one of them too). In truth, any of Aftelier's perfume solids make stunning gifts, but Oud Luban has stolen my heart. Its woody, smoky spiciness with a mouthwatering orange topnote makes it particularly wonderful for the season. A connoisseur's delight.

For family, teachers, your veterinarian, hairstylist... yes, anyone!
NEST Sir Elton John Holiday candle ($38 at CandlesOffMain.com, 8.1 oz, 50 hrs burn time)
This candle has a gorgeous balsam fir and citrus fragrance and spot-on presentation with its deep aubergine glass vessel and wax to match. This is how you get major bang for your holiday buck.

For the vintage villainess:
Ayala Moriel Bon Voyage Purse Roll-on Trio 5ml each- Sabotage, Espionage, Film Noir ($175.50 at AyalaMoriel.com).
With this trio, you can choose any of a number of different perfumes, but I love these three together. It sets the scene for a particular type of character- the 1940s Film Noir Villainess. She's got perfectly waved hair, kohl-rimmed eyes and deep red lips. She's smoking a cigarette and packing heat, and she looks damn good doing it.

For someone who wants to bone up on their perfume history:
Francois Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money ($25.55 at Amazon)
Francois Coty's life story is a fascinating one and is intertwined with the history of perfume as we know it. This book captures the good, the bad and the odoriferous.

For your friend who has a growing curiosity about perfume:
Ormonde Jayne Discovery Set, 12 x 2ml spray sample vials (44 GBP at OrmondeJayne.com)
Ormonde Jayne's entire range of scents is available in this gorgeous discovery set, and it's such a pleasure to explore. Just about everyone I know loves at least one Ormonde Jayne fragrance- there are delicate tropical florals and rich, woody chypres and everything in between. A brief word of caution: this set has been known to turn a person with a harmless affinity for perfume into a bona-fide, sample-hoarding scent-obsessive.

For a much-adored femme:
Guerlain L'Art et la Matiere Iris Ganache 75ml ($235, available at Bergdorf Goodman in store and now online)
Iris Ganache is my holy grail gourmand perfume. It has a very sexy elegance about it and the creamy sweetness bounces off of the cool iris in the most bewitching way. It comes in a lovely presentation box along with a bulb atomizer and a regular one, and the bottle itself is a feast for the eyes. Iris Ganache (or any of the L'Art et la Matiere line) would be a luxurious gift for the most cherished girly-girl in your life.

Baptism by fire: Amouage Jubilation 25 Candle

Clean and dirty, pristine in its details on the surface but with an earthy growl behind it. These are the descriptors of the best incense fragrances, and ones I often use to describe my favorite Amouage scents, too. One of my biggest weaknesses (and I have many, so consider this a King Weakness) is incensey candles. And for every King of Weaknesses there is a Queen's Indulgence, an over-the-top representation of luxury that sends a shiver up my spine and melts any resolve that might be lurking beneath the surface. Meet Amouage's Jubilation 25 candle- gilded, glowing and gorgeous.

notes: tarragon, lemon, ylang ylang, rock rose, frankincense, davana, labdanum ciste, patchouli, amber, vetiver, musk, myrrh

the first burn is always the best

The perfume Jubilation 25 was created by Lucas Sieuzac, and in my opinion the candle is a very faithful representation of the EDP. I almost enjoy this particular fragrance even more as an ambient one. It's worth mentioning that because of the softness of the wax, it is entirely feasible to use the candle wax as a solid perfume. In fact, as soon as I unpacked the candle, that's the first thing I did and it worked quite well. The candle is clean-burning and quickly creates a pool of luscious liquid when lit.

This is my first experience with Amouage home fragrance products, and it's clear that the firm adheres to the same high standards as with their personal fragrances. The cold throw is excellent (the scent the candle gives off when not lit) and fills the room quickly with rich fragrance when burning. The Jubilation 25 candle is a feast for the senses and is particularly delightful as cool, rainy weather descends on the city as I write this.

candle and holder are available as a set

Amouage's Jubilation 25 candle is 6.9 oz and is available from the Amouage website for 120 Euros (candle with the beautiful holder is also available together as a set for 165 Euros) as well as  from Parfums Raffy for $195 USD. I will update this post with additional US retail outlets as I find out about them. 

[candle was sent to me by the company for my consideration]

photo credits: top photo is my own, bottom photo from Amouage.com

Redefining the animal: Amouage Library Collection Opus V

For a couple of weeks, I've been somewhat at a loss as how to explain the experience of wearing the most recent launch from Amouage: Opus V. Created by perfumer Jacques Cavallier, it is definitely not a traditional perfume in the way that I know traditional, but it's not exactly modern, either. But with that said, I somehow feel like I understand it. It is strictly Earth-bound. It is animal, vegetal and mineral, magnetically grounded and sensual- not simply for pleasure but for procreation. It exists in a wild, feral space bursting with the potential for life.

When first sprayed onto the skin, it explodes with a boozy tickle to the nose attributed to a fabulous but rather short-lived rum note, then the florals create sparks that shower down over you like olfactory fireworks.The particular element of rose used here smells very expensive and is charming, luring you at first into an expanse of an English topiary garden full of roses, sunlight and shadows. The rose is refined, without a hint of sweetness, and the jasmine is soft and (thankfully) non-indolic. Just when you become comfortable with the way things are developing, the familiar starts to disappear. You slowly come to the realization that you're actually alone in the woods as the canopy of trees overhead grows thicker by the second and blocks out all light, and glowing eyes peer at you from every dark corner. It's like a Brothers Grimm Fairy Tale. At once beautiful and picturesque, then veering into the shockingly visceral. Opus V is to me a complete and unflinching representation of the cycle of life. It's nature acting naturally.

Notes: Orris Absolute, Rum, Orris Concrete, Rose, Jasmine, Agarwood, Civet, Dry Wood Accord

The woods are creamy and develop fairly soon, and they feel even creamier because of the civet which smells natural and thick (but it's synthetic, I checked). The agarwood is rich and pervasive; just gorgeous (and natural, I checked on that too). This is where the fragrance starts to feel very satiny and cashmere-like, it grows a thick coat of fur, and it's maddeningly plush. The orris is very earthy, dark and opulent- just the way I like it. The "dry wood" accord is not overly dry, in fact, the moist presence of the civet helps the woods to not disperse too quickly. Instead, it damps them down so that they play nicely with the other notes for a longer period of time. There is a subtle smokiness in the drydown which I think could be labdanum. Whatever it is, I'd consider eating it with a spoon. 

Over time, the civet and agarwood are all that's left (with a tiny touch of rose), and it really starts to meld into the skin in the most seductive way. It reminds me a bit of certain savory gastronomic delights, like forest mushrooms sauteed in butter, or goat cheese with brined olives. 

The sillage of Opus V is not too strong- it wears fairly close to the skin, but the longevity is unbelievably good (12-24 hours depending on how much you spray). This is what I would consider to be a 'personal perfume'. It's not something I would wear for the benefit of anyone other than myself. It's MY fur coat, and nobody else can wear it.

Amouage Opus V is available from Amouage.com, a 100ml bottle for 275 Euros, also available from Luckyscent.com for $325 USD.

[my sample of Opus V was provided by the company for review]