My Top 8 Fragrances of 2013: (or, the year-long rollercoaster of olfactory pleasures)

It's LIST TIME again! Always a treat for us bloggers. This year, as with every other, these fragrances are in no particular order, and if I do say so myself, this is quite an interesting group of perfumes I've got here. My consumption of scents in terms of numbers has not been quite as high as in years past, but these fragrances caught my attention instantly and I knew they would receive my year-end attentions. There are several new brands, and nothing pleases me more to be able to embrace new niche companies and the fantastic talents behind them. Below are links to the lists of my blogging compatriots-- for additional listy-type reading entertainment, please do check out their posts as well!

Persolaise
Olfactoria's Travels
Fragrant Moments
Candy Perfume Boy

Aftelier Cuir de Gardenia
With the simplicity of the finest natural tiare essence along with natural castoreum, I'm not sure a floral fragrance lover could dream a better perfume. Cuir de Gardenia is so rich and uplifting all at once-- it's one of Mandy's most lust-inspiring, maddeningly perfect, expensive-smelling creations yet. Unscrew the cap and it just might whisper stories into your ear that would make you blush. Over the years I've come to find out that it's not my toys or the television or my cat that hypnotizes me and tells me to do bad things, it's perfume. I'm going to love and wear Cuir de Gardenia with pleasure and abandon, and if I wind up in jail, Mandy, I'll need you to bail me out.

Neela Vermeire Creations Ashoka
As many of you know, I'm still completely obsessed with Trayee. However, Neela's newest creation, Ashoka, is a very, very close second. The composition is complex (in true Duchaufour style) but the effect is tempered with pure soul. I find its milky, powdered fig and sandalwood very soothing, and the intense overlay of a cool, otherworldly floral melange led by jasmine sambac (my favorite kind of jasmine) and osmanthus is something akin to icing on the cake. However, comparing this fragrance to food just seems wrong. Whatever this is-- this magic-- can only live in the ether, where you're lucky if you ever get to meet it.

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir
Fledgling brand Parfums Retro's first release Grand Cuir instantly made me feel all sorts of things. It has an incredible effervescence that you don't find in many leather fragrances. It draws you in and won't let go-- not that I would ever want it to. It's a many-faceted diamond that sparkles in its frankness and refusal to blend into the standards that have been set by the industry, critics like myself, or any other person desiring to categorize and simplify it. Grand Cuir is a leather fragrance for optimists, and for pessimists looking for a change of pace. And, I love the Art Deco chevron design on the label, which fits the brand perfectly. Overall, it's a very impressive and interesting first launch for Parfums Retro, and I can't wait for the next one.

Charenton Macerations Christopher Street
Everybody, meet the fragrance I wore most of the summer. I had been eagerly awaiting this new brand's first release, Charenton Macerations Christopher Street. The story is rich with history of the joy, freedom, revelry, individualism, pain, violence and turmoil of a particular area of New York City- The Village. I have two major associations with that neighborhood-- the happy memories of spending time with my mother there on our occasional trips, and the riots of Stonewall in 1969. You can fit thousands of lifetimes and experiences in this bottle of shimmering, combustible, energetic fragrance, and the imagination and artistry that went into making this a perfect fragrance for either gender, for any situation, is rather mind blowing to me. How to explain the Willie Wonka-esque everlasting drunken salty lime note? I don't know, I guess you'd have to ask Ralf Schweiger, who composed it. There is a lot of creative transparency and lore to pore over on the CM website, and it all makes for interesting reading. At the end of the day, though, Christopher Street, in its purposefully modest packaging, is one of the fragrances I reach for the most, and my favorite thing to smell traces of on my clothes.

Rouge Bunny Rouge Embers
UK/Moscow cosmetic brand Rouge Bunny Rouge relies heavily on fantasy. If you look at (or use) their products, you'd know their signature whimsical style and stories. They eschew infantile cutesy-ness for shadowy rabbit-hole oddities, and it really works for them. Their cosmetics are fantastic and their seasonal collections offer much more originality than you'll find with the usual high-end department store suspects-- this is niche beauty on steroids. The looks they create are what I want, so I was not surprised at all when they released a series of fragrances that I found equally impressive. I mean, really impressive. I like all of them, love a few, but am out-of-my-mind obsessed with Embers. It's smoky and woody (which you may have already gathered), but it's loaded with spices and aromatics that mercifully last for days if you let them, and yet it manages to not be cloying. It's a super-sexy swoon-worthy unisex sillage monster and I love it intensely. In the US, it currently can only be ordered through Beautyhabit.com.

Aether Arts Burner Series no. 4 John Frum
Amber Jobin is the perfumer behind Aether Arts, who until fairly recently was under Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's apprenticeship. Some of you might remember that Dawn created a bespoke perfume for me a couple of years ago, Guimauve de Soie, which was a huge thrill for me. Amber created a series of perfumes for Burning Man, and I fell in love with no. 4 John Frum, right here in my living room-- not naked in the desert. But I do know someone who was there, though I've no idea if she wore her clothes or not. Anyway, Burner no. 4 is a super-fresh vetiver and leather concoction that is oil-based, and wears close to the skin. With other, milder notes of tropical flowers and a faint touch of coconut, besides the vetiver of course, the other main ingredient it boasts is kava kava, which in herbal medicine is known to help a number of different ailments, including its function as a sedative, an anesthetic, and a psychoactive drug with its numbers of kavalactones reaching up to fifteen or so. I must admit I have no idea what the plant smells like, and I've never seen it in person in its natural form. But if I'm smelling it in this perfume, it's delightful. I don't know anyone who wouldn't love Burner no. 4, which makes it a must have, and a good one to stash small bottles of for gifts. Amber and Aether Arts are bringing something special to the table-- watch this one, folks.

SOIVOHLE' Carpathian Oud Cologne and Demi Absolute
Yep. Those who know me, know that I might be a little obsessed with Christopher Lee as Dracula from the old Hammer films. When I heard the name of this fragrance, I thought, "the old-school vampire lover in me AND the black metal lover in me are making out right now". I remember years ago when I went bazonkers over Liz Zorn's Meerschaum, her ode to my other favorite fictional character, Sherlock Holmes. This is Meerschaum 2.0, people (only similar in degrees of bazonks I went over them). Carpathian Oud is one of those rare fragrances where I've gotten handed two different versions of it at the same time, so that is a total treat for me. I tried the cologne first, which I declared addictive (between long inhalations). When it came time for the demi-absolute, a new world opened up. It's like watching a Dracula film or reading Stoker's book vs. being right there in the Carpathian Mountains as the sun is setting and you've got no idea where you'll find shelter for the night. Carpathian Oud has many aromatic oddities, a curious balance between acidity and alkalinity, and the distinct tang of metal. Ah, yes. Iron! That's it. The mineral found in human blood. It's earthy, sexy as hell, and can be defined by the word exotic. It's not from here, it's not from there... it's a Liz Zorn creation, and this is a scent that I want to be buried with.

[photo includes DOGSTAR and both Carpathian Oud concentrations]

SOIVOHLE' Dog Star Cologne
A Soivohle/Liz Zorn cologne-concentration fragrance can be deceivingly potent, so that's one (good) thing to consider when thinking about trying Dog Star- but I will warn you, it's already on clearance and being phased out, so snatch some up NOW. Hopefully it will return again one day. Anyway! Dog Star is what you would find on offer at an intergalactic, floating department store for aliens (I know, I watch a lot of Doctor Who). It has a very human, tactile quality to it, but it feels very, very steely and cold in temperature with ozonic muskiness, choya and patchouli. To be perfectly honest, it fascinates the hell out of me. I don't even know who I am when I'm wearing it. And that, is what has earned Dog Star a place on my list. Too strange to live, too beautiful to die.

[disclaimer: I was not compensated for any of my reviews or statements. Samples were provided by the perfumers for my consideration. All photos courtesy of their corresponding brands]

Perfumer Interview Series: Liz Zorn

Liz Zorn of Soivohle Perfumes is one of a kind. She's someone who is not afraid to speak her mind, regardless of the consequences. It's one of the things I really like about her; you never have to wonder where you stand. She's faithful to her vision, her art and her amazing (and adorable) cat Beanie, and her talent is boundless. In short, she's a very interesting person. Read on to find out why.

CM: When I first started seriously collecting and studying perfume, I had ordered some samples from you and realized that I had never before experienced anything similar to what you do. So, in my personal perfume story, you represent a major marker along the journey. Can you describe your aesthetic and creative goals for those who may not be familiar with your work?

LZ: Like most artists I live in my head, so that is where the work begins. It has always been that way for me and this is how I have been telling my story for as long as I can remember.  I do not usually set goals, but desires. I desire things to be a particular way so I will work it out in my head until I feel that it is worthy of repeating on paper or in the lab. Like a new song that gets played over and over in my head until I can't stand it. At that point I must decide to either take the next step and finish it, make it tangible, or let it go. I do this with scent. I either get to a place where I finish it, or just let it go. 

CM: I’ve always considered your style of perfumery to be “rustic luxe”, and I think the consumer’s appetite for this kind of thing is on an uptick. Do you agree, or would you characterize your work differently? 

LZ: Rustic is not a word I would use to describe my work as it implies unrefined, lacking sophistication, backwards etc. When I think of rustic I am reminded of my childhood and our horrendous family camping trips. You would be hard pressed to get me out in the woods in a tent today. I love the outdoors but pooping in the woods is not my idea of luxury.  I try not to put labels on the work because it boxes me in. I will say that the overwhelming feedback from collectors, is more in line with allegory and sensory connections. Less about perfume speak and more about the artistry of the work and how that fits the personal paradigm of the individual.

CM: I know that you’re a musician and have been for some time. Does music have any influence on how you create fragrances?

LZ: Of course there are similarities in structure. The spark of creation, the mulling it over, the tangible work. I do not compartmentalize my creativity. Music here, painting there, perfume  etc. It all comes from the same place. An inner drive to create, regardless of the medium.

CM: Can you give hints about any new scents you may be working on at the moment?

LZ: At the moment I am working on new things in the Soivohle eau de toilettes collection. This collection is set to be expanded to include an oil perfume and perhaps a lotion for each scent in the collection.  It (the collection) will first be paired down to the scents that can transition to an oil, and then new scents are scheduled to be added this year. First up are Wild Ginger Chai and Rosa Sur Rose.   I am also working on new natural perfumes that will be in the Signature Collection Absolutes. These are inspired by Egyptian Mythology, the first one will be called Tears of Ra, a honey scent, based on the story of the same name.

CM: What is the most gratifying part for you about being an independent perfumer?

LZ: Being the boss of course. Setting my own pace. It is a luxury of sorts to be able to make a living doing what one loves in life.  I also feel a deep sense of gratitude to be able to do what I want. I do not take it lightly.

CM: And what is the most difficult part?

LZ: Paperwork. But perhaps it is more dislike than difficult. I do it, but I do not like it. Also setting time boundaries. If I had no other responsibilities I could easily ignore all else in my life. This sometimes gets me in trouble because there are only so many hours in a day. I rush around trying to fit it all in. I am not always successful.

CM: You regularly take some of your perfumes off of the menu, but will often times bring them back in the future—sometimes with slight changes. What is your motivation for this? 

LZ: If you are looking just on our website this will be the case. Nothing is really gone, it is just out of the current rotation. Most things can be purchased by request or in my studio where I keep a larger variety of perfumes. As to the changes, I rarely if ever change formulas. I do however upgrade or change out materials. For example the Vetiver for Blood Orange and Vetiver was changed because the original was no longer available. I have made changes to the new Solstice by using a different Oud and Frankincense, but the formula has not really changed. I try to keep things as close to the original as possible, but with natural materials it isn't  possible to have a standardized version of every material.  I also buy special limited quantities sometimes, things that cannot be replaced. I always know going in that to create a scent with this rare material means that it will not be around forever. This is how art works. It isn't always about a never ending stream of commerce, the supply and demand.

CM: I really like how you have a few different lines of fragrances within your brand because there really is something for everyone. When any one asks me for a recommendation for your scents, no matter who they are, I can easily rattle off a few that would suit them. Is it important to you to try to have options for many different people and their varying tastes?

LZ: Nope. I am very selfish in that regard, I am only interested in satisfying myself. I always set the bar very high.  If that materializes into a myriad of things, it is because there are a lot of things that interest me. In reality, I am just trying to get from point A to point B.  It would be too overwhelming to incorporate the desires and varying tastes of others into my equation. I would never get anything done and it would no longer be my point of view, my art.

CM: Where do you see Soivohle in 5 years?

LZ: I am a beginners mind kinda gal, so my brain is not wired for such an overwhelming long term projection. No big changes, no creative deviations. I would hope that it continues on the same path. I tend to fine tune as I go, and I always think things out before acting. I am the least spontaneous person I know. I believe that like follows like. People, like minded people do seek me out, and I am a big believer in cause and effect. With this in mind I am hopeful to stay the course and keep a positive outlook and maintain a level of integrity in my work. I think people have come to expect that from me. They expect from me what I  naturally expect out of myself.

CM: There may be one or two people in Perfumeland that don’t know about your cat Beanie, but I count myself among his biggest fans. Can you give us all a brief version of the story?

LZ: Beanie (Beacon Free) is an amazing spirit.  He was born with disabilities that our vet did not think he would overcome. Now he is 3 1/2 years old. He needs daily care to survive, and I am his only caregiver. I do this gladly and with love and devotion. We talk about perfume, art and music, and all of these things are fine. But it is our service, our selfless giving of ourselves to others that defines who we really are.

I have had Beanie since he was a few days old. His mother was a feral pregnant female who ate from our community outdoor food bowl. She delivered and housed her babies tucked into a stack of firewood at the side of our house near the road. A very busy state highway. I knew they would not survive that road, so I decided to bring them all inside. At first I caught the mother and then got the babies. I noticed immediately that something was not right with one of the babies. His back legs were hyper extended and he had no ability to balance himself. He was smaller and the others got the lion’s share of the milk. Each day I would pull the others away so that little Beanie could get his share. In the animal kingdom the mothers will sometimes kill or leave behind the ones who are sick or lame, Beanie’s mother Peggy Sue, loved him and cared for him. I was amazed at how gently she treated him.  Eventually the other kittens began to play and jump and move around in ways that Beanie could not. At night they would all gather in a box up on a shelf to sleep.  In the morning I would always find Beanie sleeping alone on his blanket. They were all eating solid food by then so I started taking Beanie to bed with me at night.  It took a long time to work out his diet issues and get him to a stable place where he could live a normal life. Today he is such a happy little guy. Has the biggest personality and he is so smart that it is spooky. He has the attention span to sit and watch an hour long TV show, and a vocabulary of sounds and meanings well beyond anything I have ever witnessed in a cat before. When I think about the relationship that I have with him, I feel like he is the wise omnipotent leader and I am just the awe struck student along for the ride. 

Check out this video of Beanie on the move! He's amazing:



[All photographs and video property of Liz Zorn and are used with kind permission]

Coming Soon: The Perfumer Interview Series continues!

I'm very pleased to announce that my Perfumer Interview series I began this past summer with Mandy Aftel and Kedra Hart will continue shortly with the lovely Maria McElroy of Aroma M Perfumes, and then Liz Zorn of Soivohle. I'm really looking forward to the continuation of this series, and I hope my readers are too.

Maria McElroy [photo from AromaM.com]

Holiday Gift Guide 2011: The Most Covetable Fragrant Gifts

All year long I've been gathering intel on what I consider to be the most tantalizing, squeal-inducing gifts, jotting down notes on everything that gives me a thrill. What follows is a list of my favorites paired with the type of person that might enjoy each gift the most.

For your favorite xenophile luxury junkie:
Amouage Jubilation 25 Candle with holder (available at Amouage.com for 165 euros, candle by itself also available for 120 euros. Available in the US at Lady Ruth Perfumes for $220)
Arguably the finest incense-y candle you will ever come across. It looks every bit as beautiful as it smells.

For the boyfriend or husband who really needs to toss that bottle of cologne you hate (or you'll toss it for him):

Soivohle Transcendental Musc Pour Homme ($135 for 35ml spray at LizZornPerfumes.com)

Welcome to the 21st century, honey! This fragrance is a modern take on musk. It's fresh, addictive and will increase snuggleability by about 1000%.

For the frustrated city-bound nature worshipper:
Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Natural Room Spray $15, Soap $8, Yuba solid perfume $65 (at juniperridge.com)
Place these three things together in a pretty gift bag and give to the nearest wistful city slicker you can find. There's no substitute for the beauty of the Pacific Northwest, but all of Juniper Ridge's products are created from that environment. They also donate a part of their proceeds to environmental conservation for the region. It's a win-win for everyone- stunning, resinous, woody natural fragrances for you, and much needed help for the environment. Juniper Ridge is one of my best discoveries of the year.

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Room Spray

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Soap

Juniper Ridge solid perfume

For someone who works with their hands a lot (and unfortunately, it shows):
Becca & Mars 3 Piece Holiday Hand Candy set ($25, scents are: Orange Clove, Peppermint Vanilla, Winter Night)
Becca & Mars make the most amazing all-natural sugar hand scrubs, and this set of three jars will make anyone happy who needs some serious hand-smoothing action and would like to smell festive while doing it. You can also split up the set for smaller (yet still fantastic) gifts.

For the lady who was most certainly a flapper in a past life:
Opus Oils Les Bohemes deluxe coffret (10) 1 dram roll-on  bottles (in oil or alcohol base, your choice. $300 available through Opus Oils Etsy site)
I thought about choosing only a few of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes line to feature, but I am inclined to feel that would be a crime. This is a set of all ten fragrances in dram roll-on bottles, and they are designed to be layered together or worn alone. The whole line is brilliant and executed with a sense of fun that is infectious.

For the dedicated but persnickety perfume enthusiast:
Aftelier Oud Luban solid perfume ($210 for 1/4 oz at Aftelier.com)
Yes, I can name a dozen people I know who are like this, all of whom I adore (and okay, I might be one of them too). In truth, any of Aftelier's perfume solids make stunning gifts, but Oud Luban has stolen my heart. Its woody, smoky spiciness with a mouthwatering orange topnote makes it particularly wonderful for the season. A connoisseur's delight.

For family, teachers, your veterinarian, hairstylist... yes, anyone!
NEST Sir Elton John Holiday candle ($38 at CandlesOffMain.com, 8.1 oz, 50 hrs burn time)
This candle has a gorgeous balsam fir and citrus fragrance and spot-on presentation with its deep aubergine glass vessel and wax to match. This is how you get major bang for your holiday buck.

For the vintage villainess:
Ayala Moriel Bon Voyage Purse Roll-on Trio 5ml each- Sabotage, Espionage, Film Noir ($175.50 at AyalaMoriel.com).
With this trio, you can choose any of a number of different perfumes, but I love these three together. It sets the scene for a particular type of character- the 1940s Film Noir Villainess. She's got perfectly waved hair, kohl-rimmed eyes and deep red lips. She's smoking a cigarette and packing heat, and she looks damn good doing it.

For someone who wants to bone up on their perfume history:
Francois Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money ($25.55 at Amazon)
Francois Coty's life story is a fascinating one and is intertwined with the history of perfume as we know it. This book captures the good, the bad and the odoriferous.

For your friend who has a growing curiosity about perfume:
Ormonde Jayne Discovery Set, 12 x 2ml spray sample vials (44 GBP at OrmondeJayne.com)
Ormonde Jayne's entire range of scents is available in this gorgeous discovery set, and it's such a pleasure to explore. Just about everyone I know loves at least one Ormonde Jayne fragrance- there are delicate tropical florals and rich, woody chypres and everything in between. A brief word of caution: this set has been known to turn a person with a harmless affinity for perfume into a bona-fide, sample-hoarding scent-obsessive.

For a much-adored femme:
Guerlain L'Art et la Matiere Iris Ganache 75ml ($235, available at Bergdorf Goodman in store and now online)
Iris Ganache is my holy grail gourmand perfume. It has a very sexy elegance about it and the creamy sweetness bounces off of the cool iris in the most bewitching way. It comes in a lovely presentation box along with a bulb atomizer and a regular one, and the bottle itself is a feast for the eyes. Iris Ganache (or any of the L'Art et la Matiere line) would be a luxurious gift for the most cherished girly-girl in your life.

The Shift: adapting fragrance habits for Fall

It's that time again, my favorite time of year. The weather cools- slowly but surely, and I start thinking more and more about rich and spicy home fragrances and also switching out the perfumes in heavy rotation on my bedside table. Yesterday, I moved out Esprit d'Oscar, Shalimar Parfum Initial and several other similarly sparkling scents on the lighter side of the spectrum and have dusted off the perennial (and more recent) favorites for cool weather.

[not my cat, but I wish she was]

Here's an updated list of what now occupies the prime real estate on my bedside table (full bottles and decants included):

Guerlain Iris Ganache
Vivienne Westwood Boudoir
Le Labo Oud 27 & Patchouli 24
Ormonde Jayne Woman
Amouage Opus V
Caron Tabac Blond (vintage)
Coty L'Origan (vintage)
Balmain Miss Balmain (vintage)
Etat Libre d'Orange Tom of Finland
Soivohle Meerschaum
DSH Perfumes Sienna
Mona di Orio Vanille
Diptyque Tam Dao
L'Artisan Traversee du Bosphore

[photo: greenesglassshop.com]

There is only one permanent artist-in-residence on the table, and that is Aftelier Perfumes. They are as necessary to me as oxygen, and I need them all at hand to satisfy my moody tendencies and to cure my mind of its mischievous ghosts. Particularly useful in this regard are Tango, Cacao and either the Jasmine solid or Candide. My newest daily treat is slathering on Aftelier Chocolate and Saffron Body Oil and layering Cacao perfume on top. I've always been a gourmand fragrance lover (and all year-round, too), but the Fall weather makes me practically insatiable.

Beyond the gourmands, I must have all manner of leathers, Orientals, woods, musks and rich vintage florals-- a little of everything. I've accepted that even if we have another surge of warm weather, my fragrance desires have shifted and they must be heeded.

The recent order I placed with Candles Off Main also reveals where my interests currently lie:
Belle Fleur Cacao Tabac
Votivo Smoke on the Water (I love the travel tins, I always get a couple)
Modern Alchemy Opium Den

And although my husband has pleaded with me to save our NEST Pumpkin Chai candle for closer to Halloween, I've already started burning it. He can buy the next one.

What about you? Have you made some switch-outs in your heavy-rotation perfume area (if you have one), and if so, name names! Include any preferences in home fragrance, as well.

[photo credit for Autumn kitty: animals.desktopnexus.com]

Weekend Poll just for fun: 3 Scents in Heavy Rotation

Which three perfumes have you been wearing a lot lately? They can be new to you, old stand-bys, or maybe something you've given several chances to capture your heart, but it hasn't quite managed the task. Do your choices correspond with the weather in your region?

Mine:

1.Odin 02 Owari has been one of my daytime staples lately. It's got a delicious, juicy and slightly bitter mandarin and grapefruit gorgeousness with a pepperiness that is hard to resist. Owari goes from top straight to bottom, skipping the heart stage, but that's fine with me. Owari is perfect as is- no-nonsense refreshment for 100 degree weather.

2. Aftelier Perfumes Tango. I cracked open my mini bottle last weekend, and I could swear that it's even more potent and rich than the sample vial that I recently drained, but I'm not sure if it's my imagination. As the level in the bottle drops steadily from using it every night, I have begun plotting for more, along with some Fig (which I've not tried yet, but everyone is telling me I HAVE to- and I believe them!). Aftelier creations are the perfumes I live in every day, like my favorite cashmere sweater or leather jacket- indispensable and timeless. Tango, in particular, has become part of me. No other perfume inspires in me so much nose-to-wrist action.

3. Soivohle Transcendental Musc is the most recent addition to my sample collection. It's being re-launched this Fall as part of Liz Zorn's new Pour Homme collection, and I predict it's going to be a smash. It smells amazing on me and my husband, who is also impressed by it. It carries that bewitching quality that seems to be unique to Liz; so many of her perfumes feel like living things to me, Mercurial in nature and unpredictable until you get to know them. Review to come during the launch.

So, spill it, guys (the beans, not your perfume)! What have you been wearing lately?

the owari satsuma mandarin- photo from davisgardenshow.com

The Winners of Liz Zorn's Riverwalk 5ml Silver Atomizers are....

First I want to say a big hearty thank you to everyone who participated in the draw and left comments about their preferences and experiences with patchouli. It pains me that there must be only two winners, but I promise, I will host other draws in the future!

Now, on to the winners! They are:
JoannElaine & Elisa


Congratulations you two, you have been favored by the powers that be at Random.org! Email me at eyelineronacat at gmail dot com with your mailing address, and I will get your atomizers out to you next week.

*UPDATE: Both winners have now claimed their prizes, congratulations!

Liz Zorn Riverwalk: my top choice for PLAP 2011 (and a draw!)

What an exciting day it was, that day I got my gorgeous little box of 13 samples for the Summer of Patchouli Love Project (or PLAP- Peace, Love and Patchouli) on Perfume Pharmer. I stayed up late that night (well, I'm already a night owl, so it was later than usual, even). I sniffed and took notes well into the wee hours, and I had a wide variance of reactions to the fragrances: pleasure, displeasure, confusion, childlike giddiness, wonderment... reactions that really ran the gamut. When I got to #2, I knew within seconds a couple of important things: a) this is fantastic, something I would wear regularly, and b) this is without a doubt Liz Zorn's perfume. I am a Soivohle junkie, through and through. Liz' signature of rich, resinous aromatics with a tinge of sweetness is something I am completely defenseless against. Her perfumes are enchanting, original and stay with you for hours on end. Riverwalk (her entry for PLAP, #2) is no exception.

[photo by Liz Zorn]

Riverwalk has many scent elements to it, and I'll list them according to Liz' Blog. Keep in mind that these are not listed in order, it's just a rough list:

notes: bergamot, lavender absolute, French lavender EO, star anise, galangal root, petitgrain, fir balsam absolute, rectified birch, choya loban, geranium leaf EO, geranium concrete, 2 different aged patchoulis, patchouli absolute, cassis absolute, hay absolute, blend of 5 different natural cedars, cocoa absolute, tonka bean tincture, Indonesian vetiver, benzoin Siam absolute, brown oakmoss and vanilla absolute, rosewood/linaloe/ho wood(?), ambergris

Riverwalk is a fougere at heart, allowing the classic composition to put patchouli front and center. No natural isolates were used, it's a 100% natural perfume in every way possible. The underlying sweetness of vanilla, cocoa and tonka is absolutely delightful and never overwhelming, and works so well with the intensely aromatic lavender essences. Riverwalk's spicy, smoky side is really brought out by the contrasting note of star anise. The fragrance mellows over a period of hours and the warm gourmand aspects are brought to the forefront. The gorgeous lavender lasts throughout the entire wearing, accompanying the rich patchouli to the very end, creating a delicious, fuzzy incense.

My initial impression of Riverwalk still holds true to me. It immediately felt like something that had so many facets that it was constantly growing and changing on my skin, leading me down different paths simultaneously. One minute, it's a fairly masculine fougere, the next, a gourmand patchouli, and then, an ode to honey-drenched hay in the sun. I think that this is the mark of a successful and unique natural perfume: it's not static, definitely not linear, and not only one thing to all people. Riverwalk highlights the best things about patchouli; extending its possibilities beyond what our memories have allowed, tenderly taking us by the hand while we stroll into new territory. You have a frame of reference to recognize its classic elements, but realize that the originality in this composition takes patchouli far beyond any expectations. To me, this is one of the most joyful things about fragrance.

To celebrate The Summer of Patchouli Love Project, I'm having a draw for two (count 'em 2!) 5ml silver atomizers filled with Liz Zorn's Riverwalk. To enter the draw, leave me a comment about anything having to do with patchouli: do you have a favorite patchouli perfume? Do you have issues with patchouli? Do you love it to bits like me?

The drawing will close one week from today, on Saturday, July 16th at 1pm Central US time. Two VERY lucky winners will be chosen at random, and should email me with their mailing address at eyelineronacat at gmail dot com. I will announce the winners around 2pm on July 16th. Liz will have Riverwalk available soon on her website for sale, so stay tuned!

A Tempting Trio: Liz Zorn Perfumes Blood Cedar, Domino Viole and Vanillaville

I have made no secret about the fact that I am a huge admirer of Liz Zorn Perfumes. I'm going to review a few of the scents that have recently captured my heart.

When I first heard about Blood Cedar (demi-absolute), just the name alone was evocative enough that I knew I must have it. I love cedar almost more than any other note in perfume, and Liz' treatment of this particular essence is singularly delightful.

From Liz Zorn's website: "Blood Cedar, distilled from the Virginia cedar heartwood is a warm wood embellished with a citrus opening, lightly floral with a base of tonka, sandalwood, labdanum and vanilla."

Blood Cedar is warm, nutty and delicious from opening until extreme drydown. The cedar note does not carry the high-pitched sharpness that cedar is often known for, instead, this has a rich, wet wood quality that, blended with the subtle sweetness of vanilla and labdanum speaks of sleeping cats, curled up in front of a fire on a cool night, thin cashmere blankets and expensive tea. Blood Cedar is a mood piece, as are so many of Liz' perfumes. There is an intense sense of comfort and well-being when I wear Blood Cedar, almost unequaled by anything, perfume or otherwise. The labdanum in particular is used strategically here, just when you think the intensity is waning, its softly animalic depth comes out for the duration. It's clear that I'm going to need a bottle of this.
[11ml spray for $30,  35ml spray for $80]

The next one I'm going to mention is Domino Viole (absolute).
From the website: "a rebirth of our beloved Domino in a lush absolute, dark earthy violets, oakmoss, oud, herbals and musk, with a sprinkling of jasmine absolute, orris root, roses and lavender"

Domino Viole is a very rich blend highlighting violet and orris with a dark mossy background. It is a floral fougere with mystery attached. The violet used here is not the light-hearted, candied kind, but reminds me of the violet in vintage Coty L'Origan, but lacks any of the powderiness traditionally associated with violet. The orris is slightly spiced, no doubt aided by the subtle and lovely lavender. The reason Domino Viole is rather thrilling to me is that it does indeed give the impression of a vintage classic perfume, before the days of watery musks and fruity floral abominations. This is perfume for a woman who knows herself, and cares enough to treat herself very, very well.
[4.5ml is $70, 15ml is $180]

The third and final perfume I'll be reviewing (today, anyway, I've got more!) is Vanillaville (demi-absolute). There is a smoky, tea-like, rich herbal signature that Liz has in some of her fragrances that frankly, I am powerless against. If her Meerschaum is your sort of thing, you'll definitely want to try Vanillaville.

From the website: "a rustic leathery vanilla with overtones of pipe tobacco, including sweet fennel, pink pepper, coffee absolute, cinnamon, cepes, rectified birch tar, sandalwood, amyris, floral accord, benzoin, almonds"


If you're anything at all like me, just reading the notes list is enough to make me weak in the knees. Vanillaville is smoky, sweet and rustic indeed. This is not the kind of scent that needs to be treated with kid gloves, it exists on the same plane as Le Labo's Patchouli 24 (Annick Menardo), it's rough and tumble, giving the impression of a fine smoky tea and a leather saddle. This is not by any means a traditional gourmand fragrance; Vanillaville is so good, it hurts. It hurts so much, that you're probably going to want to buy it not only for yourself but for all your friends. Do it.
[11ml spray is $30, 35ml spray is $80]
Samples of all scents are also available at lizzornperfumes.com.

Samples were sent to me for review by the perfumer.

Soivohle Nightjar, my ticket out of here: Jan 12, 2011

Jan 12, 2011 5:15 PM

by Carrie Meredith

The city of Chicago is buried in snow, the temperature is freezing and there is no sunlight to be found. To rise above the oppression of this dismal winter day, once again, I turn to Liz Zorn. This time, my antidote to the doldrums is Nightjar.

Nightjar is a delicate fragrance comprised of mimosa, osmanthus and frangipani, with a whispering base of sandalwood, tolu, tonka and musk. The opening is akin to rays of light breaking through a tree line, the tropical flowers working their magic to dissolve my gloomy mood. Did I just smile? No, couldn't be.

The scent wears close to the skin, and as it progresses, a slight verdant undertone emerges and it tangles deliciously with the brightness of the osmanthus. Wait, yes, that was a smile, but you have no proof.

The florals wear on steadfastly throughout the entire experience, and it's something to be grateful for, because you won't ever want them to fade. Once the tonka, soft woods and musk peek through after the heart settles, you are left with a sugar-veiled, tropical-tinged floral skin scent that has surprising longevity. In full-on giggle mode, I realize that cabin fever has indeed claimed me, but with Nightjar, I have my chance now to escape to someplace warm and breezy, teeming with flora and optimism.

See you guys later.

Nightjar is in Absolute concentration and is a mixed media composition. 4.5 ml is $70, and 15ml is $180 atSoivohle.com. Sample vials are also available. It is a limited-production fragrance released for Fall/Winter 2010.

Soivohle Winter Poem: a review

Dec 28, 2010 1:19 AM

by Carrie Meredith

My first experience with Soivohle's Winter Poem shocked me instantly out of my dead-of-Winter coma that I had been struggling through. Released for sale on Winter Solstice at midnight, I was pretty much first in line for this. It's not at all the type of perfume I would usually try from the description alone, but for some reason I knew I had to give it a spin.

The opening is filled with bright floral notes of freesia, gardenia and jasmine, and it doesn't take long for the fruits to squeeze their way in. I detect perhaps yuzu or nectarine, and it persists well into the dry down. The florals sparkle, shimmer gently and offer a welcome mental and emotional break from the winter blues. These are not the hard-edged, heady floral notes that usually give me a hard time.

After about an hour of wear, the base emerges with moss and a soft musk, but they never dominate in this blend. They are there to support the flowers and the fruits through their linear journey to the end. This scent has an inherent sweetness to it that is not cloying, but really serves to bring out the light earthiness of the base notes.

As I wear it, I long for Spring, with its giddiness and promise of rebirth. I think I understand why this doesn't smell like a rich "Winter" scent, its freshness and ability to clear the mind's cobwebs is why Winter Poem is an instant classic to me. It is a perfume blended with great care and skill, and I hope that many of you will get to experience it before it's gone.

Winter Poem's base is from a saved quantity of one of Liz Zorn's earlier perfumes called Writing Lyrical Poetry, but has been tweaked to create an original limited edition absolute. It is available in a 15ml flacon for $100, 5ml for $35 and a sample size for $5 on Soivohle.com. This perfume will only be available until Valentine's Day. Liz Zorn's new Facebook Page can be found
HERE.

Painting: George Bellows, Love of Winter 1914
Photo of Winter Poem 15 ml flacon, property of Liz Zorn