The WINNER of the aroma M Camellia Beauty and Perfume Sample Bundle!

We have a winner for the aroma M Camellia Beauty and Perfume sample bundle:

Congratulations, Carole!

Please contact me via email with your mailing address at the following address:
eyeliner on a cat at gmail dot com.

Thanks again to Maria McElroy and to all who entered!

List Randomizer

There were 8 items in your list. Here they are in random order:

1. Carole
2. Lindaloo
3. Jen
4. monster
5. Hazel
6. rachlovespenguins
7. shabra99
8. burntsienna

Timestamp: 2014-10-11 00:04:23 UTC

Aroma M Beauty Camellia Perfume Review + Interview + Fabulous Giveaway!

Edit: The draw is now closed. Thanks to all the entrants! (7:05pm, 10/10/14)

As the weather here in Chicago begins to chill its natives to the bone, a beautiful new pure floral perfume has graciously moved in with me to warm my soul and to offer just a whiff of tradition. Maria McElroy, the creator and founder of Aroma M Perfumes and my friend, has launched Camellia Perfume in a concentrated oil and eau de parfum. It joins her Camellia Beauty collection of ridiculously luxe oils for hair and skin, and bears an intensified, refined version of the fragrance so elegantly employed for those very beauty oils.

camellia flower

                          
The fragrance's focus is of course the camellia bloom, or tsubaki in Japanese. The camellia's leaves are made into many varieties of the tea that the world voraciously consumes. In Camellia Perfume's case, it is joined with jasmine, gardenia, neroli, geranium and rose, rounded out with a bit of brightly intoxicating frankincense. Many of you know that I'm not a huge rose lover, but it's precisely the judicious use of it in this perfume that allows me to appreciate it so much for how it can transform the mood of a fragrance blend. It provides a touch of warmth to this largely cool yet seasonless blend, and that's what really does it for me.

I just need a few deep breaths and I'm enveloped by smooth, peaceful waves of warmth.  The natural freshness of this fragrance graces me with true, unfettered happiness, wholeness and wistfulness for something that I haven't yet remembered. Camellia Perfume is the olfactory equivalent of a drop of red sealing wax on pure white paper. The past, present and future all collide here, with a nod to traditional Japanese Geisha culture, modern fashion and thoughts of what kind of legacy we will leave for future generations of girls and women. I'm not ashamed by my frequent cravings for this beautiful poppy in the field-- my life is simply less colorful without it.

I was so happy to do an interview with Maria recently, which you'll find below. After you read her inspiring words, leave a comment answering the question at the end of this post, BECAUSE...

...up for grabs is a complete set of Aroma M Camellia Beauty Oils and a set of Camellia perfume samples. You can get the full Camellia experience with a total of 5 samples to indulge yourself with, compliments of Aroma M! Trust me, this is one contest you need to enter.

Camellia Perfume Oil (7.5 ml $150)

CM: What was your main inspiration to create Camellia Perfume on the heels of your coveted Camellia Beauty trio (bath & body oil, face oil and hair oil)?

MM: Aroma M got its start as an artisanal perfume house, so of course I wanted to add a perfume to the aroma M Beauty collection. The inspirations are the natural heady floral notes that the Camellia Beauty Oils are known for. I was very inspired to create a natural perfume that included Camellia essential oil. I knew when I finally sourced this rare, delicate, and almost fruity fragrance, that it would be the namesake of the perfume.

CM: Historically, how does fragrance play into the daily rituals of geishas? Why is the camellia flower in particular so important?

MM: The Camellia flower is sometimes used as a symbol of the Geishas, but Camellia essential oil is quite rare. I had not seen it until I went on my yearlong search for the essential oil, after creating the aroma M Beauty Oils.

camellia flower

CM: The vibe of Camellia Perfume (both versions) is intense but fresh—a memorable and beautiful contrast. I see it as a modern-day Joy—a classic, but with a more faithful and almost affectionate rendering of the floral notes. Was one of your goals to create the type of fragrance that multiple generations of women could wear?

MM: I love that you see it as a modern-day Joy! I did give a lot of attention to the floral notes which are classic in combination. But as with all the aroma M perfumes I feel that it has a firm footing in the present and is modern, specifically with the subtle Japanese incense note. I created the Camellia Perfume with the intention for it to be worn by a young ingénue or a Grande dame.

CM: Including your last big fragrance launch, Geisha Amber Rouge, I feel that your aesthetic is becoming a bit more refined, lush and extravagant. Did you will the pendulum to swing this way?

MM: I feel that my style with the Camellia perfume is more refined also, and more opulent. In creating the aroma M Beauty Oils I worked with a lot of heady, voluptuous floral notes. They have influenced my aesthetic and inspired me to add even more gorgeous natural florals, like the addition of the Gardenia note. I swooned over it when I first smelled it!

Camellia EDP (30ml, $110)

CM: I love the timing of Camellia Perfume’s launch. I happen to think a rich floral for cooler seasons is super-chic—especially if it contains whispers of incense, as Camellia does. In terms of fashion, what would pair nicely with Camellia? Do you have any new and fabulous things stirring in your closet this Fall?

MM: The whisper of incense as you beautifully put it, gives the Camellia Perfume its aroma M signature I think. I love wearing a rich floral in cooler seasons also, they go wonderfully with flowing scarves and cashmere sweaters. I have been wearing a lot of vintage DVF dresses with chunky sweaters as the temperature cools; the Camellia Perfume pairs glamorously with these pieces.

CM: The experience of wearing this perfume has the same fluidity as music—no individual notes stand out as obvious, but there is a sweetness of character that emerges as soon as it hits skin. Highs and lows exist, but no one point is better than another—just different. I know that among other things, you studied music in Japan. Do you believe that art of all disciplines, including the design and creation of fragrance, springs from the same well?

MM: What a lovely way to describe the Camellia Perfume's fluidity like music. I created this perfume so that it would flow evenly over you as you wear it, each note merging into each other much like music, with the Camellia at the heart. I do think that all art, including perfume come from the same place of inspiration.

CM: Camellia might be the ultimate Aroma M perfume because of how tightly it’s connected to the heart of what your brand is. What do you hope that your new fragrance says to the world about the old world Japanese tradition of the geisha?

MM: I feel that the Camellia Perfume is very symbolic of the 20-year history of aroma M; our anniversary will be Feb 14! It is part of the new aroma M Beauty collection that embraces all natural ingredients, and it still has the ever-present influence of Japan and the geisha running firmly through it.

Maria McElroy-- Photo by Axel Oberg

CM: I mentioned the word “classic” before, which for me, speaks to the element of time in perfumery and its fleeting nature. It seems to me that the signature of Aroma M has always given a nod to the past while allowing us to languish in the moment for as long as possible. What does the near future hold for Aroma M?

MM: I especially love the poetic quality of fleeting beauty that perfume has. The images of cherry blossom petals fluttering down like pink snow, and the moon covered with a wisp of clouds. These are the essences that I try to translate in my perfumes. I create aroma M perfumes to help us linger in the moment for a bit longer. As for the future, I have a new aroma M Beauty Camellia Oil product that will launch next year that I am very excited about, and another aroma M Beauty perfume is in the works!

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GIVEAWAY!

Leave a comment on this post to have the chance to win a full Aroma M Beauty Camellia sample set: that's one of each formulation of Camellia Perfume, and one each of Camellia Face, Hair and Bath and Body oil (a total of 5 samples). Just tell us how (if at all) beauty oils have made their way into your daily beauty regimen. Or, if you prefer, which Aroma M perfumes or skin care products appeal to you the most and why?

The winner will be chosen at random via random.org. The giveaway is open to residents of the US and Canada only. The winner will be announced in a separate post on this blog on Friday, October 10th at 7pm Central. At that point, the winner will be responsible for contacting me via email with their mailing information at: eyeliner on a cat at gmail dot com. If the winner does not come forward within 5 days, a new winner will be announced in the same manner.

Good Luck, everyone!

[sample provided by Aroma M for my editorial consideration]

Holiday 2012 Gift Guide: Natural Beauty

This feeling of giddiness I'm experiencing at the moment could only mean one thing-- it's holiday gift guide time again! I have made many new discoveries over the past year and have found some beauty products that not only perform well, but are natural and/or organic, are pleasurable to use and have high quality ingredients. On this list you will find simply beautiful gifts for the discerning beauty junkies in your life. Without further ado, release the list!

[Gorgeous natural gift wrapping using burlap and organic cotton by The Ribbon Lady at May Arts: step-by-step instructions & free download-able tutorial  HERE]

Aroma M Camellia Hair and Face Oil Set $145
This beauty duo is inspired by the traditional formulas used by Japanese Geishas, and somehow it seems all the more luxurious for it. The hair oil delivers gorgeous shine and hydration and imparts the scent of tuberose with an earthy touch, while the face oil charms with a geranium-based floral blend. Best of all, camellia oil features prominently in both, which means  all types of skin and hair will benefit due to its versatility. A hardcore skin/hair care enthusiast's dream.

In Fiore Veloutee- $58
Veloutee is a gorgeous jasmine-scented natural balm for lips and under eyes that has an incredible number of anti-aging constituents, such as black current seed oil, calendula, carrot seed oil and marula. Loaded up with In Fiore's signature floral essence blend and housed in a chic metal compact, this is one sexy balm that will give anyone on your gift list a thrill.

ILIA Beauty Limited Edition Lips & Eyes
Inkpot Lipstick and These Days Tinted Lip Conditioner $24 each
Mascara in Asphalt Jungle $24
I am in love/lust with ILIA Beauty. Their colors range from everyday-wearable to wild and wonderful. Their newest limited edition collection is to die for. Inkpot Lipstick is richly pigmented and can be dabbed on as a purplish-berry stain or applied right from the tube for serious pop. They've recently launched a new mascara line that offers the same diversity that their lip products do. My favorite one is pictured below- Asphalt Jungle, a gorgeous charcoal grey for those who like to swim in the cool side of the pool. I love that ILIA's products are all organic, which is a huge comfort when faced with the statistic that a woman, on average, consumes about 2 pounds of lipstick/lip balm in their lifetime.

Holistic Silk eye mask with lavender $65
Holistic Silk makes these luxurious silk and velvet eye masks filled with organic lavender, and they come in a bunch of colors. Treat the frequent traveler on your list with one of these, and they'll be thanking you all year long.

Pai Sea Buckthorn Hand and Nail Collection $32
The gift sets that Pai has on offer this year are really amazing and well-priced. This hand and nail duo is the kind of thing you'd do well to buy a few of, because it will make everyone happy, including yourself. All organic, anti-aging and seriously moisturizing without greasiness, the Sea Buckthorm Hand Cream is the best and most effective hand cream I've used in some time. The Sea Buckthorn Cuticle Balm is exclusive to this gift set, and is a bedside-table must-have. Treat yourself every night before bed.

REN Trio Set for Men $85
This all-natural and organic trio for men contains Tamanu High-Glide Shaving Oil, High-Glide Cooling Shaving Cream and Multi-Tasking After Shave Balm. Once the man or men in your life try this once and realize that shaving doesn't have to be semi-painful drudgery, they will need no more convincing. Want to kick up your gift-giving prowess a few notches? Add a gorgeous silver Edwin Jagger shaving set for $125 (not pictured).

Kjaer Weis Beauty Reborn Gift Trio $140
Green make-up artist Kjaer Weis has created one of the most highly coveted lines of natural and organic cosmetics, complete with sexy, refillable metal packaging that lasts a lifetime. Each product even comes with a polishing cloth for the case, so it can double as a mirror. Spirit Beauty Lounge has a fabulous gift set available where you can choose your colors of Lip Tint (my fave is Bliss Full, shown below gift pic), Cream Blush and Eyeshadow. Weis has mastered the art of eco-luxe, and this stuff is just too good not to share.

Aftelier Ancient Resins body oil $40 for 50ml bottle
As you drink deeply from the sultry well of resins and spices present in Mandy Aftel's newest body oil, you soon realize that it's no small wonder that the ancient Egyptians would literally get high by enclosing themselves in spaces filled with frankincense smoke. It makes an ideal gift for anyone who loves intense, earthy fragrances, has chronically sore joints or muscles, or those who worship at the altar of Frankincense, one of the most perfect natural substances on Earth. The scent profile is rounded out by Balm of Gilead, benzoin, elemi and labdanum. This is the real deal, and it will blow your mind.

LUSH Emotional Brilliance Cosmetics: Liquid Lipstick in Perspective ($22.95), Liquid Eyeliner in Independent ($22.95), Eyes Right Mascara in Black (18.95), Liquid Eyeshadow in Intuitive ($22.95)
Makeup hasn't been this much fun in... well, ever. Whether you're in the store or online, you can spin a wheel with a different colored dots on the outside and the wheel will decree what mood you are in, and which colors you should be wearing. It is a gimmick, yes, but it's cute. Less corny are the cosmetics themselves. The liquid lipsticks are satiny and ultra-comfortable to wear, the liquid eyeliner comes in all kinds of fantasy colors and stays put indefinitely until removed, and the mascara is rich and gorgeous (and boasts a wheatgrass base). The colors I chose below are just a few of my faves, and at this time, the mascara only comes in black. The wide range of colors in the Emotional Brilliance line make it easy to customize your selections for the natural beauty-lovers on your list.

Vered Organic Botanicals Introductory Set $68
Vered Back is a master aesthetician and herbalist who makes a whole slew of wonderful face and body products. From her cult favorite, Le Chocolat Citrus Foaming Face Scrub (yes, it smells as gorgeous as it sounds) to my personal favorites, Therapeutic Balancing Face Oil and Herb Infused Toner, the array of trial sizes packed into this adorable kit are what I consider to be mandatory testing. If you buy this for someone on your holiday gift list, I highly suggest you do not pick through the contents prior to wrapping, or it will never reach its intended recipient. Or, you could just buy two.

This year, I feel I could have made my list three times as long as in prior years, there has just been so much brilliant beauty products that have hit the market in recent past. Oils are finally hitting the mainstream, thanks to tireless champions such as Nav Mundi, the woman behind Beauty Huile blog. Consumers are starting to realize that there are alternatives to what they've been using for so long-- ones that are healthier, natural, organic and in so many cases, far better than their synthetic counterparts.

This is why I love the small boutique lines. Some are made and bottled by hand by individuals and teams with vast amounts of knowledge and experience with botanicals, beauty and natural healing. They are in touch with their customer and possess a profound chicness that informs the ingenuity, integrity and quality of their products. My list represents beauty with brains and a lot of heart... I won't settle for less than that, and now that this sector of the beauty industry is steadily growing, I won't ever have to think of settling.

Aroma M Beauty Camellia Hair and Face Oils

I was so excited when Aroma M's Maria McElroy told me that she was going to start creating beauty products based on traditional ingredients and formulae used by the Kyoto Gion Geishas. What ended up in my hands was well worth the breathless wait. Her first two offerings, Camellia Hair Oil and Camellia Face Oil, both made a huge impression on me.

Camellia Hair Oil hits the ultimate sweet spot: a nourishing, shine-enhancing and strength-promoting oil that smells more delicious than any heaven I could conjure in my mind. There are few natural floral essences that never fail to excite me, and tuberose is at the top of the list. I think it's such a perfect fragrance for hair. This one eschews the more raunchy aspects of the flower for a sweeter, more balanced scent thanks to its marriage to rosemary essential oil. They reside happily together in a base of camellia, jojoba and argan oil, so you can bet on gorgeous, shiny hair. My hair is so long now that it's creeping dangerously close to the small of my back, so it goes without saying that my ends need extra attention, and Camellia Hair Oil fixes me right up while feeding my constant need to smell beautiful things. This is the hair oil to end all hair oils, and it's hand crafted and bottled by a talented nose who also, as we find out, has a serious knack for creating beauty products. Keep this in mind if you should find yourself in Barneys, holding a grotesquely expensive bottle of Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Hair Mist in your hand, which is pretty but won't do your hair many favors.

Camellia Face Oil is the sort of oil that immediately just slid right into its waiting slot in my skin care arsenal. Camellia oil is very soothing and wonderful for its immediate skin plumping powers and is quickly becoming ubiquitous in anti-aging preparations. This blend is packed with lots of other organic beauties: carrot seed, evening primrose, apricot kernel, vitamin e, golden jojoba and argan oil with essential oils of jasmine, neroli, geranium and frankincense. This is a great facial treatment for all skin types, including oily and blemish prone, due to its ability to help balance out sebum production. While your delicate skin is being treated with lots of antioxidants, deep hydration and healing, soothing ingredients, the complexion turns to satin. Fine lines are blurred and skin tone appears more even. I love a product that works hard and looks pretty while doing it.

I can't wait until Maria launches more Aroma M Beauty products. Her first two are extremely useful, results-driven oils combined with the aesthetics of an artist and perfumer, and her ability to offer us the unmistakable thrill of feeling like we were just let in on a secret or two.

[There is a set of these two oils available on aromam.com for $145, which saves you $5. Separately, the Camellia Hair Oil is $65 for 40ml and the Camellia Face Oil is $95 for 40ml. For the amount of product you're getting, I consider this a great deal]

Want to read another review of these lovely oils? Beauty Huile is the place to go.

Samples provided by Aroma M for my consideration.

Immortal Mine by Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl

I am rather late in reviewing Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl's Immortal Mine, but as usual, the Perfume Goddesses had a plan for me. The last perfume I reviewed was the incredible Sepia from Mandy Aftel, and the theme was decay and the unique beauty it engenders. Immortal Mine fits right in there. It was created for the Clarimonde Project helmed by Lucy Raubertas of the blog Indieperfumes; a group of perfume writers and perfumers got together to create together in the spirit of the story Clarimonde, a 19th century vampire novel. I have not read the story, but I love where Immortal Mine is taking me as I gingerly sniff my wrists.

Everybody knows that I love me all kindsa vampires, and before anyone out there can utter the words "Ugh, I'm so burnt out on vampires", let me just say that there's more to this shadowy mythic world than Twilight or The Vampire Diaries. Folk tales exist on virtually every continent that have spawned some of the most incredible literature (and later, films) of any time period.

Now, on to the perfume! It is oil based, and while I generally prefer alcohol based fragrances, sometimes oil better suits the formulation. This is always clear to me with other Maria McElroy creations, especially the ones filled to bursting with resinous ambers. Immortal Mine is not the kind of fragrance I like to pick apart and try to figure out what magic is behind it, it's one I just want to wear and revel in its unique atmosphere. That's how I feel about my favorite Hammer Horror vampire films-- the genius lies in the rich atmospheric qualities of the films, not technical largesse.

The Byzantine excess of the Immortal Mine bottle

My sample of Immortal Mine arrived in a velvet pouch, dripping with blood red wax all around the top of the vial, with a crow feather and wax-sealed introduction note. There's only one word for that, and it is BADASS.

The fragrance itself makes me think of sweet, dry earth, a mineral wash over everything. I smell stone, old books covered with dust, something lactonic playing against subtle tartness. What lies beneath it all is blissfully incensey and woody, and more than a little unsettling. It's a moving fragrance that holds my interest for hours, and based on that alone, I would definitely buy a bottle (or a gallon).

Anyone who appreciates (or shamelessly hoards) resinous, ambery and woody fragrances with a healthy dose of mystery beneath the surface will be interested in Immortal Mine. Its unique beauty certainly stands apart from the rest of my fragrance collection.

[Immortal Mine is available at Indiescents.com in a 1/3 oz bottle for $200 or sample vials for $10. Sample was provided by one of the perfumers for my consideration]

Packing for the World's Lamest Vacation

Tomorrow morning, I'll be heading to the hospital for a routine surgical procedure-- I'm having my gallbladder removed. It's given me so much trouble recently and made me so sick, that I'll be relieved to get it out of me. My surgeon and surgical team are super cool, I like the hospital where I'll be, and I have full confidence in the staff. But I'm still nervous. All I can think about is what perfume and skin care products I'm going to bring with me. Distracting myself with such thoughts is certainly my self-preservation kicking in.

Just hold still... this won't hurt a bit

Since I can't bring my cat Troutie (the perfect creature comfort creature), I'm going to bring a small variety of perfumes most of which are made by hand, by people I care about and who care about me. It's all about good vibes-- bottled.
Here's the short list:

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge: it's in a roll-on bottle so travels well, has maximum impact with minimal sillage, and it acts as a cashmere blanket for my soul. Prediction: When the nurses get close enough to me, they will want to know what I'm wearing and where they can buy it.

Aftelier Oud Luban: It's in solid form, another great traveller. It's warm and cozy but also edgy and smoky. It reminds me of the best parts of myself, and it feels like an extension of Mandy. It's the best of both worlds. Prediction: My husband will comment on how amazing it smells. He always does, and it's gratifying when he notices and comments on whatever scent I'm wearing.

Opus Oils Giggle Water: Another roll-on bottle, this time filled with a cheerful orange blossom scent spiked with Kedra Hart's signature. a long-lingering soft musk. It makes me feel like the sun is out and I'm being warmed by its rays. A perfect reflection of Kedra's personality-- playful and engaging with a bit of the animal thrown in for good measure. Prediction: Men comment on this one. If I were single, I think I could feasibly get myself a surgeon  or anesthesiologist boyfriend.

Now, on to the skin care oils or balms. I said I'd bring two- one for face, one for body, but I don't think I can stick to two. Here are my must-haves:

Decleor Angelique Night Balm: I use it over retinol cream every night, and when I wake up in the morning and look in the mirror, I am very, very happy with what I see. Hydrates and protects to the max. Superb!

Aftelier Wild Orange Face Elixir: A perfect light to medium weight oil that my skin adores, and the fragrance makes me swoon. Patchouli and Cedarwood join the Wild Orange to facilitate the ideal indulgent skin care ritual. I use what's leftover on my hands to massage into my cuticles. It works even better than my expensive Decleor cuticle oil.

Red Flower Essential Omega Fresh Berry Oil: I can use this to soothe irritations and moisturize my face and body. I love the scent, which smells like pulverized berry seeds, a tiny bit of mint and a little bit of brightness from bergamot. It's a truly elegant multi-use oil that I've come to rely heavily on.

Ole Henriksen Lavender Body Oil: Since my pal Nav was so nice to send me a giant vat of this gorgeous stuff, I'm partying like it's 1999. I can only imagine the dry air in the hospital, and what sort of odors it will carry, and lavender is the perfect bodily spell to cast in order to protect my poor nose from any unwanted odors. Lavender: it's not just for dinner anymore.

I'm skipping the retinol, so that leaves room for one more thing... more perfume!

Amouage Library Collection Opus VI has been gobbling up all my stress and anxiety lately. I can't believe I'm saying this, but I might love it more than Opus V. Did you hear that, Mr. Chong? It's big, it's magnificent and it has unexpected facets that keep me interested. Full review to come soon. Prediction: If I'm feeling well enough, I will wear this, and others may be lucky enough to smell it because it does have some throw.

Bringing all these scented treasures with me is my way of protecting my state of mind in an unpredictable environment. They are my instruments to create balance and harmony-- it's the only healthy way to self-medicate that I know of, what about you?

EDIT 3/11/12: In the wake of The Great Hospital Fiasco of 2012, my skin went haywire. Within hours of entering the hospital, my cheeks and chest started reddening, and it only got worse from there. I have no idea what it is that made my skin freak, but I'm pretty sure it's airborne. I had my elite arsenal of skin care products at hand that temporarily soothed and hydrated for the longer term, but I've still got rosacea-like blotchiness on my face. I've never had rosacea before, but it wouldn't surprise me if I start getting it regularly now. Did I say that I loved that hospital and had faith in the staff? I retract all such complimentary statements. My surgeon is a badass and I like him quite a bit. Pretty much everyone else can go jump in the lake.
*CURTSY*

Faith Healing for the Scent-Obsessed

You know this story: You're faced with a stressful situation, like waiting to see the doctor for a very intimidating health issue that could land you in the hospital, or not. All you really want is a glass of water with lemon, and a fragrance so stunning that it provides focus for your thoughts and emotions to keep you from jumping out of your skin. Something grounding that makes you feel smarter when you wear it. It should be very long-lasting, because you don't know how long you'll be at dear old Doc's. The receptionist is yakking on the phone with her boyfriend, every single person has come and gone from the waiting room except for you, and then... "Single Ladies" comes on over the intercom. The best thing to do in this situation, I have found, is to have a good book on hand (in my case, I'm following the intrepid Lisbeth Salander during her Caribbean vacation) and privately revel in a great perfume. My scent of the day was Aroma M Geisha Ambre Rouge, which sticks to me like a benevolent spirit and has huge presence and depth without being overwhelming.

Noomi Rapace as Lisbeth Salander in The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo

Some other scents I wear which I consider to be particularly fortifying are:
Aftelier Tango and Oud Luban
Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan
Opus Oils Dapper
Caron Pour Un Homme
Ormonde Jayne Woman
Guerlain Bois d'Armenie

and...

Lavender, Lavender and more Lavender. I recently ordered a bunch of products from Paso Roble, California's Central Coast Lavender (body oil, body lotion, linen and body mist, lip balm), and it has proven to be just the thing. I believe that when we have cravings for something, it's meaningful and we should somehow be able to satisfy them. Lavender has been on my mind a lot lately and I was happy to find some lovely natural products made with copious amounts of French lavender. It's such a classic aromatherapeutic scent that it's practically ubiquitous with very concept of aromatherapy. Many folks may not prefer to wear lavender in a perfume, but love it for bath, body and home-- and I would urge everyone to give Central Coast Lavender a try.

I'd love to hear from you, dear readers: what are your favorite fragrances that help to build you up from the inside out and offer comfort during trying times?

Best Fragrances of 2011

Below you'll find my 10 favorite new fragrances of 2011, in no particular order. This past year held several surprises in the fragrant universe, as well as a few personal honors for me. I was asked to join The Fragrance Foundation's Committee for Indie Fragrances, I was interviewed by Allure magazine for print and online (along with other perfume blogger pals), forged meaningful friendships with kindred spirits, and now I'm ending the year by joining a new, small collaborative blogging group consisting of myself and three other bloggers whom I hold in very high esteem (from Persolaise, Olfactoria's Travels and Fragrant Moments). We are planning on some fun group blogs for 2012, so stay tuned! Today, we are presenting our Best of 2011 lists together, and you will find links to their blogs at the bottom of this post. Year-end "best of" lists are without doubt my favorite to do, and so, without further ado, please read on to discover my creme de la creme fragrances!


Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar
notes: lemon, bergamot, citron, jasmine, orange flower, tuberose, heliotrope, vetiver, tonka bean, musk

I was enchanted with Esprit d'Oscar from the start, in a way that I never was with the original Oscar. The sparkling optimism combined with the sensuality of this flanker led me to wear it quite a bit over the past year, and I foresee my future fully stocked with it. The similarities between it and Guerlain L'Heure Bleue only urge me to love it even more.

Aftelier Oud Luban
notes: elemi, orange terpenes, blood orange, frankincense CO2, oud, opoponax, choya ral, benzoin, aged patchouli

I must admit that I had a very hard time choosing my favorite of Mandy Aftel's three new releases in 2011, because I love them all. It was Oud Luban solid perfume, however, that spoke to me in my own language. It combines two of my favorite scent elements- oud and incense, it lasts for several hours on the skin and leaves a delicious trail of smokiness everywhere you go.

Amouage Library Collection Opus V
notes: orris absolute, rum, orris concrete, rose, jasmine, agarwood, civet, dry wood accord

Opus V was somewhat of a revelation for me. Never in my life have I experienced a fragrance as overtly animalic as Opus V, and yet it retains a certain refinement at the same time. It's powerful and sexual without being the least bit vulgar. This perfume is responsible for getting me hooked on Amouage. I think the firm is thriving under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, and I look forward to future launches.

Prada Candy
notes: caramel, musks, overdose of benzoin

Prada Candy is one of the surprises of the year that I alluded to. The name and the graphics that go along with the fragrance are wildly misleading. Candy has sweetness, that much is true, but it's an extremely cozy yet streamlined scent. There is an addictive boozy effervescence about it that keeps me coming back for more.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge
notes: Moroccan amber, deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove, star anise

Perfumer Maria McElroy triumphed this year with her first launch in five years, Geisha Amber Rouge. If you love honey with your amber, this intense gem of a fragrance is mandatory. The star anise keeps the blend from being too warm, and it retains an aromatic richness throughout wear, which is actually close to 24 hours. I've not been able to stop yapping about Geisha Amber Rouge since its release, and I don't see an end to that anytime soon. Sorry.

Etat Libre d'Orange Archives 69
notes: mandarin, pink pepper, pimiento leaf, orchid, prune, incense, camphor, benzoin, patchouli, musk

I love ELdO. I don't love every single one of their fragrances, but I love them as a firm, and occasionally one of their releases will knock my socks off. Archives 69 made me giggle the first time I wore it, and in subsequent wearings, the joke wore off and I was left with a very solid, imaginative blend that I wore all summer long. In a market flooded with pink pepper and patchouli, Archives 69 stands out as a display of strength for this house.

Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Vanille
notes: Brazilian orange, Indonesian clove, petitgrain, rum extract, Bourbon vetiver, ylang ylang, Indian sandalwood, gaiac wood, vanilla absolute from Madagascar, amber, tonka bean

2011 saw the life of brilliant perfumer Mona di Orio cut short, and many (including myself) would say in the absolute prime of her creativity. The introduction of Les Nombres d'Or collection indeed heralded the golden age for Mona, and the blogosphere exploded with praise for her work from all across the globe. Vanille is my favorite release from this collection, and it reminds me somewhat of Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille, but more powerful, spicier and with stunning longevity. Longevity is a blessing with perfumes like Les Nombres d'Or Vanille because it's a ride that you never want to end.

Opus Oils Les Bohemes Dapper
notes: violet absolute, orris root, blond tobacco, sandalwood, aged dark patchouli

I am a notorious fangirl of select big houses like Guerlain, but in the end, it's the independent perfumers who torture me the most at year's end. As with Mandy Aftel's fragrances, I had a very hard time choosing just one of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes perfumes as my favorite. In my heart, though, I always knew it had to be Dapper, a berry-violet and leather concoction. I've never smelled anything like it before, and its charm and uniqueness kept it in high rotation since the very first time I wore it.

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial
notes: bergamot, orange, green notes, fruity notes, rose jasmine, iris, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, tonka bean and white musk

As much as I love Guerlain, I've never been too much of a fan of Shalimar, but I was still looking forward to Parfum Initial. My inkling that I would love it turned out to be correct. The gourmand facets of lemon curd, vanilla and puff pastry open the fragrance in a very feminine way, but the undercurrent of patchouli and vetiver allow a masculine edge to emerge. This irresistible allure is what makes this flanker a real success in my eyes.

Le Labo Santal 33
notes: Australian sandalwood, papyrus, cedarwood, cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, leather accord

Santal 33 was another surprise for me this year. I was not expecting it to be so razor sharp and refreshing, but that's exactly why it's a perfect summer fragrance. Le Labo can always be counted on to alter perceptions and push boundaries, and Santal 33 has become one of my favorites of theirs for its audacity alone. Bold, camphoraceous and full of heart, it's not a fragrance you'll soon forget.

Please visit these fabulous blogs for more Best of 2011 posts:
Persolaise
Fragrant Moments
Olfactoria's Travels

I'd like to wish all of you a Happy New Year, and my hope is that 2012 will be a prosperous and love-filled year for all!

Perfumer Interview Series: Maria McElroy

It was a unique pleasure for me to interview Maria McElroy of Aroma M Perfumes recently, for many reasons, one of which was a spontaneous Vulcan mind-meld that occurred (read on for explanation). The trajectory of Maria's career as a perfumer is an interesting one, as are her various cultural influences. As a fragrance writer, living in a world where there are upwards of 1200 new perfume launches a year, it's refreshing to meet someone like Maria who chooses to focus on quality over quantity.

Maria in her native NYC

CM: There has been an overwhelmingly positive response to your latest fragrance launch, Geisha Amber Rouge. What was your process like when you created it?

MM: Thank you so much, it has been such a wonderful journey creating my latest fragrance. Geisha Amber Rouge was inspired by my trip to Tangier two summers ago and also the lingering memories of my travels to Istanbul.  I have always felt such an affinity to that part of the world.  The crimson pink light of the desert set against the azure blue sea, and the evocative scents and sounds of the ancient markets, set my imagination aflame when in creating Geisha Amber Rouge.  Once I experienced the extraordinary perfume oils in Morocco, I knew then that I had my next aroma M perfume.

Geisha Amber Rouge

CM: It was surprising for me to learn that it’s been five years since the last Aroma M launch! Why did you wait that period of time to release a new fragrance?

MM: Each of my fragrances has had a different gestation period. The longest being Geisha Rouge. It took five years to finalize that scent.  I do not like to create fragrance, on a schedule.  Like painting a painting, there is a process that takes hold and you have to see it through. Some fragrances are easier and quicker than others.  I always have a very definite idea of how my perfumes should smell, so it makes it a bit harder, as I do not rest until it is exactly as I have imagined.

Maria in Morocco

CM: Your fragrances have a well-edited aesthetic to them which is very much in line with their Japanese influence. What aspects of traditional Japanese culture do you connect with the most, and why?

MM: That is a lovely compliment, thank you. There are so many aspects of the Japanese culture that work their way into my life and therefore into my perfumes. I love the Zen purity and the “wabi sabi” concept, which finds the simplest objects interesting, fascinating and beautiful. Fading autumn leaves would be an example as well as the clouds lightly covering the moon-a natural simplicity, which is actually very difficult to achieve.  This is an aesthetic seen in Japanese cuisine, traditional dance and painting as well.  I hope that these values come through in my perfumes.

[unknown photographer]

CM: I recently told you that I had a dream that you released two specific new scents in your Geisha line, and you’d responded that you had indeed already thought of doing them. That was a very cool “a-ha!” moment for me. Have you had other moments of odd synchronicity like that in relation to your creative process?

MM: I have to say Carrie, that experience with you was a first!  I was so astounded when I heard about your dream. Indeed, so cool!  I have had though, a very wonderful creative synchronicity in collaborating with my Cherry Bomb Killer Perfume partner, Alexis Karl.  It has been so fun and fascinating to share in the creative process together.  Our latest collaborative perfume, Immortal Mine, which was created for the Clarimonde Perfume Project, has had an incredible response, one that neither of us could have imagined. After almost seventeen years of working on my own at aroma M I am really enjoying the collaborative process.

CM: Besides perfume, do you work with any other medium to create art?

MM: I love flower arranging and I write a bit of poetry that I only share with my husband and kitty, Tama!

[flower arrangement by Keiko Kubo]

CM: I sense many different types of feminine energy in your fragrances and find that there is a different face (or character) one can put on for every mood or whim. Is this something you went in with the intention of doing?

MM: I have always wanted to make sure that each of my perfumes was different and distinct.  When my line started growing it became even more important to me.  I wanted to create a perfume wardrobe so to speak, one you could wear for every mood.  It is a challenge to keep each fragrance unique, as I have sixteen perfumes now. I hope that they all maintain a certain aroma M personality, which might be the feminine energy you find.  By the way, I love that you sense that about my perfumes!

CM: Do the different seasons inspire your work at all, and if so, how?

MM: Yes, I think that the seasons and climate have a great effect on my perfume process.  The way that Central Park smells after the first snow fall of the year, the warm night air in Tangier perfumed with Jasmine flowers, the sweet scent of orange blossoms mixed with the salty Mediterranean sea of the Greek islands, the incense- laden air hanging heavy in the ancient street of Kyoto are some of the inspirations that come to mind.

CM: Finally, as is the tradition here at eyeliner on a cat, do you have any cats, and may we ogle them?

MM: Yes most definitely!! I have had two Maine Coons; my beloved Bogey of 18 years passed away this last summer, and our new six-toed Kitty Tama!  Tama has the most perfect eyeliner that any girl would love to have…we adore her!

Bogey

we must give respect to those special kitties who have passed over

Tama-chan 

the new addition to the family

[I happen to have a thing for Coonies because my mother has several, and they all have way more personality than any cat should be allowed to have. I've always had mutt-kitties, but a Maine Coon cat is a beautiful thing to behold.]

Coming Soon: The Perfumer Interview Series continues!

I'm very pleased to announce that my Perfumer Interview series I began this past summer with Mandy Aftel and Kedra Hart will continue shortly with the lovely Maria McElroy of Aroma M Perfumes, and then Liz Zorn of Soivohle. I'm really looking forward to the continuation of this series, and I hope my readers are too.

Maria McElroy [photo from AromaM.com]

Holiday Gift Guide 2011- The Stocking Stuffers

Welcome to Part I of my 2011 Holiday Gift Guide! First I'm going to list several beautifully scented or scent-related items on the smaller side that would make amazing stocking stuffers or host/hostess gifts, with all different price points represented.

The Little Book of Perfume: the Hundred Classics, by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez- $12.24 at Amazon.com
Here is the much-anticipated follow up to Turin & Sanchez' Perfumes: The Guide. This time around, the focus is on their 100 favorite perfumes from The Guide, and some reviews even have updates. There is an excellent new short piece by Luca Turin on The Osmotheque in France along with his take on a few long-gone classics and an all-new foreword by Tania Sanchez (which in my opinion makes The Little Book worth the price of admission alone). This petite, chic volume would interest anyone who loves fragrance- from beginner to seasoned Fragonerd, and easily slips into a handbag so there's a handy reference when shopping for perfume.

Aftelier Perfumes Resurrection limited edition candle (3oz)- $50 at Aftelier.com
There are only 25 of these pure beeswax luxury candles for sale at Aftelier.com (there are other limited edition candles as well) and they will surely sell out soon, so hurry if you plan on grabbing one. Resurrection has essences of frankincense, vetiver, clary sage, geranium, bitter orange, fir needle and lime. I adore the beautiful beading on the outside of these glass votives. If there is someone on your gift list who is very stylish and perhaps a little hard to please, look no further.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge roll-on perfume oil (8ml)- $55 at AromaM.com
The newly launched Geisha Amber Rouge is one of my little darlings as of late, and would make a perfect gift for the sexy siren in your life. This warm Oriental fragrance has notes of Moroccan amber, deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove and star anise.

Juniper Ridge Cedar incense- $10 for 40 sticks at JuniperRidge.com
Juniper Ridge's incense blends are perfect for those who wish they had wood-burning fireplaces but don't. Burning a stick of Cedar incense quickly fills your space with the essence of cedarwood-- an easy way to create a calm and balanced atmosphere during the hectic holiday season.

NEST Holiday boxed votive- $14 at CandlesOffMain.com
A classic. This lovely gold-toned votive in its red velvet embellished box will make every person with a heartbeat squeal with delight. Notes of mandarin orange, pine, cinnamon and eucalyptus create an instant festive mood.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Amber Ball (small)- $90 at Luckyscent.com. Medium and Large sizes also available, crystal refills are $75
L'Artisan's very sophisticated and rustic method of scenting the home comes in the form of these terracotta balls, carved and chiseled by a potter. Inside the ball are seductively scented amber crystals that release their scent slowly over time. Refills are available for purchase as well.

Opus Oils Jitterbug Perfume Parlour Absinthe Tea- $20 for a 3oz tin at OpusOils.com

Absinthe is my very favorite tea from Opus Oils' stellar lineup of loose teas. It's a black tea with notes of pear, violet, vanilla and anise. Intoxicatingly delicious and very refreshing.

Atelier Cologne Oolang Infini Petite Cologne Absolue- 30ml for $55 at AtelierCologne.com

With notes of blue tea, bergamot, smoke and leather, Oolang Infini is guaranteed to please both women and men. It's distinctive, classic and cozy.

[Holiday Gift Guide 2011 Part II still to come, so stay tuned!]