Packing for the World's Lamest Vacation

Tomorrow morning, I'll be heading to the hospital for a routine surgical procedure-- I'm having my gallbladder removed. It's given me so much trouble recently and made me so sick, that I'll be relieved to get it out of me. My surgeon and surgical team are super cool, I like the hospital where I'll be, and I have full confidence in the staff. But I'm still nervous. All I can think about is what perfume and skin care products I'm going to bring with me. Distracting myself with such thoughts is certainly my self-preservation kicking in.

Just hold still... this won't hurt a bit

Since I can't bring my cat Troutie (the perfect creature comfort creature), I'm going to bring a small variety of perfumes most of which are made by hand, by people I care about and who care about me. It's all about good vibes-- bottled.
Here's the short list:

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge: it's in a roll-on bottle so travels well, has maximum impact with minimal sillage, and it acts as a cashmere blanket for my soul. Prediction: When the nurses get close enough to me, they will want to know what I'm wearing and where they can buy it.

Aftelier Oud Luban: It's in solid form, another great traveller. It's warm and cozy but also edgy and smoky. It reminds me of the best parts of myself, and it feels like an extension of Mandy. It's the best of both worlds. Prediction: My husband will comment on how amazing it smells. He always does, and it's gratifying when he notices and comments on whatever scent I'm wearing.

Opus Oils Giggle Water: Another roll-on bottle, this time filled with a cheerful orange blossom scent spiked with Kedra Hart's signature. a long-lingering soft musk. It makes me feel like the sun is out and I'm being warmed by its rays. A perfect reflection of Kedra's personality-- playful and engaging with a bit of the animal thrown in for good measure. Prediction: Men comment on this one. If I were single, I think I could feasibly get myself a surgeon  or anesthesiologist boyfriend.

Now, on to the skin care oils or balms. I said I'd bring two- one for face, one for body, but I don't think I can stick to two. Here are my must-haves:

Decleor Angelique Night Balm: I use it over retinol cream every night, and when I wake up in the morning and look in the mirror, I am very, very happy with what I see. Hydrates and protects to the max. Superb!

Aftelier Wild Orange Face Elixir: A perfect light to medium weight oil that my skin adores, and the fragrance makes me swoon. Patchouli and Cedarwood join the Wild Orange to facilitate the ideal indulgent skin care ritual. I use what's leftover on my hands to massage into my cuticles. It works even better than my expensive Decleor cuticle oil.

Red Flower Essential Omega Fresh Berry Oil: I can use this to soothe irritations and moisturize my face and body. I love the scent, which smells like pulverized berry seeds, a tiny bit of mint and a little bit of brightness from bergamot. It's a truly elegant multi-use oil that I've come to rely heavily on.

Ole Henriksen Lavender Body Oil: Since my pal Nav was so nice to send me a giant vat of this gorgeous stuff, I'm partying like it's 1999. I can only imagine the dry air in the hospital, and what sort of odors it will carry, and lavender is the perfect bodily spell to cast in order to protect my poor nose from any unwanted odors. Lavender: it's not just for dinner anymore.

I'm skipping the retinol, so that leaves room for one more thing... more perfume!

Amouage Library Collection Opus VI has been gobbling up all my stress and anxiety lately. I can't believe I'm saying this, but I might love it more than Opus V. Did you hear that, Mr. Chong? It's big, it's magnificent and it has unexpected facets that keep me interested. Full review to come soon. Prediction: If I'm feeling well enough, I will wear this, and others may be lucky enough to smell it because it does have some throw.

Bringing all these scented treasures with me is my way of protecting my state of mind in an unpredictable environment. They are my instruments to create balance and harmony-- it's the only healthy way to self-medicate that I know of, what about you?

EDIT 3/11/12: In the wake of The Great Hospital Fiasco of 2012, my skin went haywire. Within hours of entering the hospital, my cheeks and chest started reddening, and it only got worse from there. I have no idea what it is that made my skin freak, but I'm pretty sure it's airborne. I had my elite arsenal of skin care products at hand that temporarily soothed and hydrated for the longer term, but I've still got rosacea-like blotchiness on my face. I've never had rosacea before, but it wouldn't surprise me if I start getting it regularly now. Did I say that I loved that hospital and had faith in the staff? I retract all such complimentary statements. My surgeon is a badass and I like him quite a bit. Pretty much everyone else can go jump in the lake.
*CURTSY*

Faith Healing for the Scent-Obsessed

You know this story: You're faced with a stressful situation, like waiting to see the doctor for a very intimidating health issue that could land you in the hospital, or not. All you really want is a glass of water with lemon, and a fragrance so stunning that it provides focus for your thoughts and emotions to keep you from jumping out of your skin. Something grounding that makes you feel smarter when you wear it. It should be very long-lasting, because you don't know how long you'll be at dear old Doc's. The receptionist is yakking on the phone with her boyfriend, every single person has come and gone from the waiting room except for you, and then... "Single Ladies" comes on over the intercom. The best thing to do in this situation, I have found, is to have a good book on hand (in my case, I'm following the intrepid Lisbeth Salander during her Caribbean vacation) and privately revel in a great perfume. My scent of the day was Aroma M Geisha Ambre Rouge, which sticks to me like a benevolent spirit and has huge presence and depth without being overwhelming.

Noomi Rapace as Lisbeth Salander in The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo

Some other scents I wear which I consider to be particularly fortifying are:
Aftelier Tango and Oud Luban
Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan
Opus Oils Dapper
Caron Pour Un Homme
Ormonde Jayne Woman
Guerlain Bois d'Armenie

and...

Lavender, Lavender and more Lavender. I recently ordered a bunch of products from Paso Roble, California's Central Coast Lavender (body oil, body lotion, linen and body mist, lip balm), and it has proven to be just the thing. I believe that when we have cravings for something, it's meaningful and we should somehow be able to satisfy them. Lavender has been on my mind a lot lately and I was happy to find some lovely natural products made with copious amounts of French lavender. It's such a classic aromatherapeutic scent that it's practically ubiquitous with very concept of aromatherapy. Many folks may not prefer to wear lavender in a perfume, but love it for bath, body and home-- and I would urge everyone to give Central Coast Lavender a try.

I'd love to hear from you, dear readers: what are your favorite fragrances that help to build you up from the inside out and offer comfort during trying times?

Best Fragrances of 2011

Below you'll find my 10 favorite new fragrances of 2011, in no particular order. This past year held several surprises in the fragrant universe, as well as a few personal honors for me. I was asked to join The Fragrance Foundation's Committee for Indie Fragrances, I was interviewed by Allure magazine for print and online (along with other perfume blogger pals), forged meaningful friendships with kindred spirits, and now I'm ending the year by joining a new, small collaborative blogging group consisting of myself and three other bloggers whom I hold in very high esteem (from Persolaise, Olfactoria's Travels and Fragrant Moments). We are planning on some fun group blogs for 2012, so stay tuned! Today, we are presenting our Best of 2011 lists together, and you will find links to their blogs at the bottom of this post. Year-end "best of" lists are without doubt my favorite to do, and so, without further ado, please read on to discover my creme de la creme fragrances!


Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar
notes: lemon, bergamot, citron, jasmine, orange flower, tuberose, heliotrope, vetiver, tonka bean, musk

I was enchanted with Esprit d'Oscar from the start, in a way that I never was with the original Oscar. The sparkling optimism combined with the sensuality of this flanker led me to wear it quite a bit over the past year, and I foresee my future fully stocked with it. The similarities between it and Guerlain L'Heure Bleue only urge me to love it even more.

Aftelier Oud Luban
notes: elemi, orange terpenes, blood orange, frankincense CO2, oud, opoponax, choya ral, benzoin, aged patchouli

I must admit that I had a very hard time choosing my favorite of Mandy Aftel's three new releases in 2011, because I love them all. It was Oud Luban solid perfume, however, that spoke to me in my own language. It combines two of my favorite scent elements- oud and incense, it lasts for several hours on the skin and leaves a delicious trail of smokiness everywhere you go.

Amouage Library Collection Opus V
notes: orris absolute, rum, orris concrete, rose, jasmine, agarwood, civet, dry wood accord

Opus V was somewhat of a revelation for me. Never in my life have I experienced a fragrance as overtly animalic as Opus V, and yet it retains a certain refinement at the same time. It's powerful and sexual without being the least bit vulgar. This perfume is responsible for getting me hooked on Amouage. I think the firm is thriving under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, and I look forward to future launches.

Prada Candy
notes: caramel, musks, overdose of benzoin

Prada Candy is one of the surprises of the year that I alluded to. The name and the graphics that go along with the fragrance are wildly misleading. Candy has sweetness, that much is true, but it's an extremely cozy yet streamlined scent. There is an addictive boozy effervescence about it that keeps me coming back for more.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge
notes: Moroccan amber, deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove, star anise

Perfumer Maria McElroy triumphed this year with her first launch in five years, Geisha Amber Rouge. If you love honey with your amber, this intense gem of a fragrance is mandatory. The star anise keeps the blend from being too warm, and it retains an aromatic richness throughout wear, which is actually close to 24 hours. I've not been able to stop yapping about Geisha Amber Rouge since its release, and I don't see an end to that anytime soon. Sorry.

Etat Libre d'Orange Archives 69
notes: mandarin, pink pepper, pimiento leaf, orchid, prune, incense, camphor, benzoin, patchouli, musk

I love ELdO. I don't love every single one of their fragrances, but I love them as a firm, and occasionally one of their releases will knock my socks off. Archives 69 made me giggle the first time I wore it, and in subsequent wearings, the joke wore off and I was left with a very solid, imaginative blend that I wore all summer long. In a market flooded with pink pepper and patchouli, Archives 69 stands out as a display of strength for this house.

Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or Vanille
notes: Brazilian orange, Indonesian clove, petitgrain, rum extract, Bourbon vetiver, ylang ylang, Indian sandalwood, gaiac wood, vanilla absolute from Madagascar, amber, tonka bean

2011 saw the life of brilliant perfumer Mona di Orio cut short, and many (including myself) would say in the absolute prime of her creativity. The introduction of Les Nombres d'Or collection indeed heralded the golden age for Mona, and the blogosphere exploded with praise for her work from all across the globe. Vanille is my favorite release from this collection, and it reminds me somewhat of Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille, but more powerful, spicier and with stunning longevity. Longevity is a blessing with perfumes like Les Nombres d'Or Vanille because it's a ride that you never want to end.

Opus Oils Les Bohemes Dapper
notes: violet absolute, orris root, blond tobacco, sandalwood, aged dark patchouli

I am a notorious fangirl of select big houses like Guerlain, but in the end, it's the independent perfumers who torture me the most at year's end. As with Mandy Aftel's fragrances, I had a very hard time choosing just one of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes perfumes as my favorite. In my heart, though, I always knew it had to be Dapper, a berry-violet and leather concoction. I've never smelled anything like it before, and its charm and uniqueness kept it in high rotation since the very first time I wore it.

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial
notes: bergamot, orange, green notes, fruity notes, rose jasmine, iris, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, tonka bean and white musk

As much as I love Guerlain, I've never been too much of a fan of Shalimar, but I was still looking forward to Parfum Initial. My inkling that I would love it turned out to be correct. The gourmand facets of lemon curd, vanilla and puff pastry open the fragrance in a very feminine way, but the undercurrent of patchouli and vetiver allow a masculine edge to emerge. This irresistible allure is what makes this flanker a real success in my eyes.

Le Labo Santal 33
notes: Australian sandalwood, papyrus, cedarwood, cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, leather accord

Santal 33 was another surprise for me this year. I was not expecting it to be so razor sharp and refreshing, but that's exactly why it's a perfect summer fragrance. Le Labo can always be counted on to alter perceptions and push boundaries, and Santal 33 has become one of my favorites of theirs for its audacity alone. Bold, camphoraceous and full of heart, it's not a fragrance you'll soon forget.

Please visit these fabulous blogs for more Best of 2011 posts:
Persolaise
Fragrant Moments
Olfactoria's Travels

I'd like to wish all of you a Happy New Year, and my hope is that 2012 will be a prosperous and love-filled year for all!

Holiday Gift Guide 2011: The Most Covetable Fragrant Gifts

All year long I've been gathering intel on what I consider to be the most tantalizing, squeal-inducing gifts, jotting down notes on everything that gives me a thrill. What follows is a list of my favorites paired with the type of person that might enjoy each gift the most.

For your favorite xenophile luxury junkie:
Amouage Jubilation 25 Candle with holder (available at Amouage.com for 165 euros, candle by itself also available for 120 euros. Available in the US at Lady Ruth Perfumes for $220)
Arguably the finest incense-y candle you will ever come across. It looks every bit as beautiful as it smells.

For the boyfriend or husband who really needs to toss that bottle of cologne you hate (or you'll toss it for him):

Soivohle Transcendental Musc Pour Homme ($135 for 35ml spray at LizZornPerfumes.com)

Welcome to the 21st century, honey! This fragrance is a modern take on musk. It's fresh, addictive and will increase snuggleability by about 1000%.

For the frustrated city-bound nature worshipper:
Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Natural Room Spray $15, Soap $8, Yuba solid perfume $65 (at juniperridge.com)
Place these three things together in a pretty gift bag and give to the nearest wistful city slicker you can find. There's no substitute for the beauty of the Pacific Northwest, but all of Juniper Ridge's products are created from that environment. They also donate a part of their proceeds to environmental conservation for the region. It's a win-win for everyone- stunning, resinous, woody natural fragrances for you, and much needed help for the environment. Juniper Ridge is one of my best discoveries of the year.

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Room Spray

Juniper Ridge Steep Ravine Soap

Juniper Ridge solid perfume

For someone who works with their hands a lot (and unfortunately, it shows):
Becca & Mars 3 Piece Holiday Hand Candy set ($25, scents are: Orange Clove, Peppermint Vanilla, Winter Night)
Becca & Mars make the most amazing all-natural sugar hand scrubs, and this set of three jars will make anyone happy who needs some serious hand-smoothing action and would like to smell festive while doing it. You can also split up the set for smaller (yet still fantastic) gifts.

For the lady who was most certainly a flapper in a past life:
Opus Oils Les Bohemes deluxe coffret (10) 1 dram roll-on  bottles (in oil or alcohol base, your choice. $300 available through Opus Oils Etsy site)
I thought about choosing only a few of Kedra Hart's Les Bohemes line to feature, but I am inclined to feel that would be a crime. This is a set of all ten fragrances in dram roll-on bottles, and they are designed to be layered together or worn alone. The whole line is brilliant and executed with a sense of fun that is infectious.

For the dedicated but persnickety perfume enthusiast:
Aftelier Oud Luban solid perfume ($210 for 1/4 oz at Aftelier.com)
Yes, I can name a dozen people I know who are like this, all of whom I adore (and okay, I might be one of them too). In truth, any of Aftelier's perfume solids make stunning gifts, but Oud Luban has stolen my heart. Its woody, smoky spiciness with a mouthwatering orange topnote makes it particularly wonderful for the season. A connoisseur's delight.

For family, teachers, your veterinarian, hairstylist... yes, anyone!
NEST Sir Elton John Holiday candle ($38 at CandlesOffMain.com, 8.1 oz, 50 hrs burn time)
This candle has a gorgeous balsam fir and citrus fragrance and spot-on presentation with its deep aubergine glass vessel and wax to match. This is how you get major bang for your holiday buck.

For the vintage villainess:
Ayala Moriel Bon Voyage Purse Roll-on Trio 5ml each- Sabotage, Espionage, Film Noir ($175.50 at AyalaMoriel.com).
With this trio, you can choose any of a number of different perfumes, but I love these three together. It sets the scene for a particular type of character- the 1940s Film Noir Villainess. She's got perfectly waved hair, kohl-rimmed eyes and deep red lips. She's smoking a cigarette and packing heat, and she looks damn good doing it.

For someone who wants to bone up on their perfume history:
Francois Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money ($25.55 at Amazon)
Francois Coty's life story is a fascinating one and is intertwined with the history of perfume as we know it. This book captures the good, the bad and the odoriferous.

For your friend who has a growing curiosity about perfume:
Ormonde Jayne Discovery Set, 12 x 2ml spray sample vials (44 GBP at OrmondeJayne.com)
Ormonde Jayne's entire range of scents is available in this gorgeous discovery set, and it's such a pleasure to explore. Just about everyone I know loves at least one Ormonde Jayne fragrance- there are delicate tropical florals and rich, woody chypres and everything in between. A brief word of caution: this set has been known to turn a person with a harmless affinity for perfume into a bona-fide, sample-hoarding scent-obsessive.

For a much-adored femme:
Guerlain L'Art et la Matiere Iris Ganache 75ml ($235, available at Bergdorf Goodman in store and now online)
Iris Ganache is my holy grail gourmand perfume. It has a very sexy elegance about it and the creamy sweetness bounces off of the cool iris in the most bewitching way. It comes in a lovely presentation box along with a bulb atomizer and a regular one, and the bottle itself is a feast for the eyes. Iris Ganache (or any of the L'Art et la Matiere line) would be a luxurious gift for the most cherished girly-girl in your life.

Holiday Gift Guide 2011- The Stocking Stuffers

Welcome to Part I of my 2011 Holiday Gift Guide! First I'm going to list several beautifully scented or scent-related items on the smaller side that would make amazing stocking stuffers or host/hostess gifts, with all different price points represented.

The Little Book of Perfume: the Hundred Classics, by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez- $12.24 at Amazon.com
Here is the much-anticipated follow up to Turin & Sanchez' Perfumes: The Guide. This time around, the focus is on their 100 favorite perfumes from The Guide, and some reviews even have updates. There is an excellent new short piece by Luca Turin on The Osmotheque in France along with his take on a few long-gone classics and an all-new foreword by Tania Sanchez (which in my opinion makes The Little Book worth the price of admission alone). This petite, chic volume would interest anyone who loves fragrance- from beginner to seasoned Fragonerd, and easily slips into a handbag so there's a handy reference when shopping for perfume.

Aftelier Perfumes Resurrection limited edition candle (3oz)- $50 at Aftelier.com
There are only 25 of these pure beeswax luxury candles for sale at Aftelier.com (there are other limited edition candles as well) and they will surely sell out soon, so hurry if you plan on grabbing one. Resurrection has essences of frankincense, vetiver, clary sage, geranium, bitter orange, fir needle and lime. I adore the beautiful beading on the outside of these glass votives. If there is someone on your gift list who is very stylish and perhaps a little hard to please, look no further.

Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge roll-on perfume oil (8ml)- $55 at AromaM.com
The newly launched Geisha Amber Rouge is one of my little darlings as of late, and would make a perfect gift for the sexy siren in your life. This warm Oriental fragrance has notes of Moroccan amber, deep wood resins, cinnamon, clove and star anise.

Juniper Ridge Cedar incense- $10 for 40 sticks at JuniperRidge.com
Juniper Ridge's incense blends are perfect for those who wish they had wood-burning fireplaces but don't. Burning a stick of Cedar incense quickly fills your space with the essence of cedarwood-- an easy way to create a calm and balanced atmosphere during the hectic holiday season.

NEST Holiday boxed votive- $14 at CandlesOffMain.com
A classic. This lovely gold-toned votive in its red velvet embellished box will make every person with a heartbeat squeal with delight. Notes of mandarin orange, pine, cinnamon and eucalyptus create an instant festive mood.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Amber Ball (small)- $90 at Luckyscent.com. Medium and Large sizes also available, crystal refills are $75
L'Artisan's very sophisticated and rustic method of scenting the home comes in the form of these terracotta balls, carved and chiseled by a potter. Inside the ball are seductively scented amber crystals that release their scent slowly over time. Refills are available for purchase as well.

Opus Oils Jitterbug Perfume Parlour Absinthe Tea- $20 for a 3oz tin at OpusOils.com

Absinthe is my very favorite tea from Opus Oils' stellar lineup of loose teas. It's a black tea with notes of pear, violet, vanilla and anise. Intoxicatingly delicious and very refreshing.

Atelier Cologne Oolang Infini Petite Cologne Absolue- 30ml for $55 at AtelierCologne.com

With notes of blue tea, bergamot, smoke and leather, Oolang Infini is guaranteed to please both women and men. It's distinctive, classic and cozy.

[Holiday Gift Guide 2011 Part II still to come, so stay tuned!]

Perfumer Interview Series: Kedra Hart of Opus Oils

Kedra Hart, creatrix of fragrant delights and owner of Opus Oils and the Jitterbug Perfume Parlour in Hollywood, CA, is one of those rare individuals that I can say I was instantly drawn to. The more you get to know her, the more you want to know. So, I found it natural to ask her to be a part of my Perfumer Interview Series. It turned out that this interview coincided with the official launch of her Les Bohemes collection (I have written about several of those scents), and also the 3rd Anniversary of her by-appointment-only Jitterbug Perfume Parlour. Kedra has become an inspiration to me creatively, and I am thrilled to be celebrating these happy occasions with her here on my blog. 

CM: How were you initially inspired to create your new Les Bohemes collection? What was the process like in creating it? 

KH: The Les Bohemes Collection began as a single Solifleur & blossomed into a whole garden!  It was quite a process spanning the course of several years. 

It all started with my fascination with a single flower - the Datura (Flapper)…  I used to live in Laurel Canyon & would take lots of walks around the neighborhood at night.  I loved the scent of the night air & would follow different scent trails until I found their source.  I became completely enchanted on many occasions by Daturas/Brugmansias in the area.  These mysterious beauties gave off a scent that was so unique & intoxicating that I spent a lot of time with my nose stuck in their petal trumpets! 

I wanted to use a Datura note in my Bespoke Fragrance Palette but there were no Datura captives on the market so I started work on a Datura Solifleur…  Over time, I began developing more & more Solifleurs to add to my Palette as a method of doing simplified Custom Scent Blends for special events where I didn’t have time to blend note by note.  I debuted this Bespoke Scent Palette during a Valentines Day event for the Beverly Hills Four Seasons. 

The Les Bohemes Collection came together as a group of scents from my bespoke palette that all fit into the theme of the roaring 20’s.  These were all perfume notes that were popular during The Golden Age of Perfumes.

CM:  Did you design all the Les Bohemes scents to blend easily together or was that something you discovered after the fact? 

KH: Pretty early on into my creative process as a Perfumer, I started thinking about the possibilities of creating a Fragrance line with layering capabilities.  The idea had been with me for a long time as I had experimented with layering scents long before I was creating them.  I can remember doing this when I was very young, with what I now understand were Solifleur Perfumes, that were acquired on family trips to Hawaii.  Orchid, Pikake & Plumeria were some of my favorites to mix & match.

I did have it in mind with the Les Bohemes Collection to have the scents work in layered combinations with each other. It was a monumental task to get each scent to the point that it was a "Star" in its own right as well as being able to play well with others! After years of trial and error, I am thrilled that the feedback has been so positive on the layering aspect of this collection!

CM: Do you ever listen to music while you’re composing perfumes? If so, what do you listen to?

KH: Music has always been a great source of inspiration for me.  I do blend with music playing most of the time.  My taste is very eclectic, ranging from rock to jazz, blues, swing & everywhere in between.

For blending, I tend to favor soulful singers like Billie Holiday, Louis Armstrong, Nina Simone, Edith Piaf, Serge Gainsbourg.  Generally I like to listen to music with lots of feeling that encourages my mind to wander & dream, putting me into certain moods that complement the particular scent that I am working on…  

For the Les Bohemes Collection I was listening to a lot of “Flapper Music,” Edith Piaf & French Café Music. 

Lots of Psychedelic Rock was playing while I worked on WILD CHILD #13 for the Summer of Patchouli Love 2011 Scent Event, hosted by Monica Miller of Perfume Pharmer.  Which, I guess, must have been some good MoJo because my scent actually won 1^st place in the competition!  

CM: What led you to want to have a brick-and-mortar perfume parlour in addition to having your products available online? Do you have plans to open any others?

KH: Our Jitterbug Perfume Parlour is really an extension of the environment that was happening in our previous workspace, just on a much larger scale!  Space had a lot to do with it, we needed more room for Perfume Classes & special Scent Events that we were putting together.  Also, the location was so perfect that it was hard to pass up!  We’re located in a building on Hollywood Blvd. that was built in the 1920’s…  Which is actually pretty rare in Los Angeles as this city is fond of tearing down old buildings & putting up pod malls.

I should mention that we are not your traditional brick & mortar.  Our retail space is open by appointment only, which allows us to provide a very special personalized shopping experience for our Customers & Bespoke clients.  

CM: How much bespoke work do you generally do? Does it account for a lot of your time?

KH: I do quite a lot of bespoke work both for individuals & for businesses, which suits me perfectly as my absolute favorite aspect of the Perfume Business is the creative aspect!  I love to get going in my atelier & slip into the trance headspace where the dreaming part starts.  At that point the fragrance I am working on takes on a secret life of it’s own - a personality with a unique voice in scent. I love to create living, breathing art! 

Tiger Powers for Dirty Sexy Wilde

CM:  Les Bohemes has marked a new chapter in the history of Opus Oils and is being received very well by the public and press, how are you going to follow up Les Bohemes? Will you go with another themed collection?

KH: I am thrilled that Les Bohemes has been offered such a warm welcome into the Fragrant Universe!  I really put a lot of heart & soul into this collection & I’m pleased beyond words that people have had such a positive response to these scents. 

I do tend to think in terms of themes when it comes to Collections...  An idea usually starts as a fascination with one aspect of something I experience (music, books, movies, art, food etc.). 

When I start exploring that one aspect it usually winds up dividing into different branches like a family tree.  By the time I get it all “worked out” there are usually several scents that fit nicely into the theme. 

There are currently several different areas that I am exploring that I could see turning into a Scent Collection project, but it’s still too early for me to narrow it down to one specific theme.  I’ll definitely keep you posted on that one! 

For now, keep your eyes open for a new unisex fragrance I created for Fetish Model Tiger Powers.  Being close to Halloween, Opus Oils is hosting a special “Pajama Party Massacre” launch (murder mystery party) Oct. 23^rd, 2011.  Be there or be scared…  

CM: What’s one piece of advice you would give an up-and-coming independent perfumer?

KH: Well, it’s definitely a tough market to crack & there is no shortage of competition (or Haters)!  You really have to be passionate about the art of perfumery, because that is what will keep you going through the trials & tribulations that are bound to happen along the path of pursuing the business of being an Independent Perfumer. 

Of course it is important to really learn your materials inside & out.  Study them closely & let them teach you.  There are so many wonderful scented materials out there right now to explore.  I find myself in perpetual study mode as far as materials go. 

I encourage my students to be true to themselves & their own creative vision at all times.  This is the only way that they will be able to develop their own style or signature as a perfume artist.  It’s the same with any art form (perfume, painting, writing, music, etc.), it takes years of study & practice to master any craft. 

CM: What do you feel is your forte as a perfumer? And which materials do you love working with the most?

KH: That’s a tough question!  I really love working with all aromatics, but the areas that interest me most on the fragrance wheel, are usually the heart & the base notes.  My forte is probably rich, animalic florals. 

One of my absolute favorite materials to work with is Ambergris (the Mermaids Treasure).  I love the whole process involved in working with this ingredient.  Taking a solid brick & turning it into powder, then tincturing it for several months…  It’s a lengthy process to be sure, but it feels truly alchemical & I love that!  I also like to put it into Cocktails for a decadent treat. 

CM:  I appreciate the sense of fun and playful sensuality in all of your work. Would you say that also describes your personality?

KH: What a sweet compliment to my work!  I would like to think that also describes my personality as well, as I have always been inspired by artists & sensualists & I do try to focus on the bright & fun side of life. 

Kedra Hart

CM: The Jitterbug Perfume Parlour is coming up on its 3^rd anniversary, congratulations! What do the next three years hold for Opus Oils?

KH: Thanks so much Carrie!  I am so happy to be marking this special occasion with you in this interview! 

It really does feel like a milestone of sorts to be making it to our 3^rd year given this particular economic climate, especially the way things have been going for the past few years in California!

In the next thee years I would really like to extend our brand distribution to include more Fragrance outlets & specialty stores. 

I will also be focusing on continuing & expanding my work in Bespoke Services.  I am looking forward to continued involvement in the fragrance community. 

CM: What do you say to the world through your fragrances?

KH: I think of my fragrances as a celebration of life, beauty & magic!   I hope that translates to those who wear my fragrant creations.  I believe we should appreciate, respect & celebrate life every day!  Scent is a wonderful way to communicate non-verbally about beauty & pleasure. 

 Kedra's cat Gish, conserving energy

Kedra's soul kitty Neptune~ Rest In Peace

For more information on Opus Oils and the Jitterbug Perfume Parlour, you can visit www.opusoils.com. All photos courtesy of Kedra Hart.

Perfumer interview series starting soon!

Very shortly, I will begin a new series on my blog which will consist of interviews with perfumers I feel are important, talented and add something unique to the world of perfume. Some of them I will know personally, others not so much, but I can't wait to satisfy my curiosity about all the things I've always wanted to ask them. I think it will prove to be entertaining and enlightening for you too, dear readers.

Mandy Aftel, giving us Stevie Nicks-style realness

First up will be my two favorite Californians: Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes, natural perfumer extraordinaire and all-around great friend, and then the slightly naughty proprietress of Opus Oils, Kedra Hart. Okay, maybe she's a bit more than slightly naughty. I will be celebrating with Kedra a big anniversary for her and a big launch. Mandy will lend some fascinating insight into her creative process and ideas about what perfume means to her.

Kedra Hart, obviously up to something here

Stay tuned!

When we were young: Opus Oils Lady Death

I have a lot of days and nights when I'm not exactly looking for a complicated fragrance to distract me, I just want something that gives me a happy and peaceful feeling. Opus Oils Lady Death from the "Afraid of the Dark" collection is exactly that.

notes: black lily, plum, narcissus, opium, oak moss

The first thing I notice is the bright, slightly tart plum that is almost reminiscent of black cherry. It's so cheerful and soothing, The floral notes of black lily and narcissus lurk quietly behind the plum, never asserting themselves too much. Almost from the start, the sweet and dark incense facet of opium melds with a touch of what comes across as tonka-infused musk. Combined with  the rich cushion of oak moss, this stage lasts for hours and the plumminess fades. As it dries down, it becomes softly powdery and just feels downright narcotic.

photo: opusoils.com

Lady Death has an "It-factor" that I had a lot of trouble placing at first, and then I finally realized what "it" is. It makes me feel younger when I wear it, it reminds me of old times- incense smoke, very late nights, romantic trysts and Siouxie and the Banshees blasting on the stereo. It's a very comforting, easy scent that fits very well with who I once was and still am. For me, Lady Death is quite literally time in a bottle.

Siouxie Sioux

[Opus Oils Lady Death is available in several different sizes starting at 1 dram for $30 as well as in bath and body products. Sample was sent to me by the perfumer for consideration]

Two More Bohemians: Opus Oils Giggle Water and Flapper

Today, I have a fresh batch of Opus Oils samples, and two more fragrances that I'm going to review from Les Bohemes collection, which, according to Opus Oils' website, is "a throwback to the age of Speakeasies and wild abandon". I happen to love the theme of the collection. We may not be living in The Great Depression any longer, but we're still in the thick of this Recession, and we need all the decadent tools of escapism we can get.

shake it up!

Giggle Water opens with a diffusive, cheerful note of orange blossom, and I can already tell that this is going to be a perfect summer scent. This is one of the brightest, happiest renditions of an orange blossom soliflore that I've found. Never coming across as dusty or antiqued, the florals retain a slight dampness that keeps them alive until the very end. For this reason, I consider Giggle Water to be much more wearable than, say, Penhaligon's Orange Blossom. The base notes of white musk and sandalwood are subtly rendered. I think creating a good soliflore is still a very worthwhile endeavor, there are a lot of people who still love them or are discovering them for the first time, so it's nice to see that this is being released onto the market today. Part of the reason it succeeds so well is due to Kedra's special touch with musks. She has shown restraint in creating Giggle Water, and it's that restraint that provides the blend with an impressive balance between bubbly levity and fixation to the skin. If there were any more musk or ambergris, it would overpower the orange blossom. Just as it is, it's a wonderful fragrance. Later on into the drydown, Giggle Water emerges as a warm embrace of a skin scent that retains a good portion of its orange blossom character for several hours.

Giggle Water notes: Tunisian orange flower absolute, Egyptian orange flower absolute, orange flower water absolute, bitter orange flower absolute, wild orange, mandarin, peach, honey, gardenia, beach found ambergris, white musk, sandalwood

fashionable friends

Flapper opens with a sparkling citrus sweetness that does not veer too much into fruitiness, but gently gives way to the intoxicating scent of datura and jasmine. The florals give the impression of being crystallized with sugar, and the fragrance progresses much in the same way as Giggle Water. The deliciously soft base notes rise up gently but rapidly to support the narcotic floral essences. There is never too much of any one thing in Flapper, it is balanced well and simply makes me happy. I need perfumes like Flapper in my life. Who couldn't use an instant mood-lifter?

Flapper notes: sweet lemon blossom, clementine, tangerine, pink peppercorn, perilla leaf, mango absolute, ginger lily, datura, gardenia, jasmine, vanilla, white musk, blond tobacco, tonka bean

I find it rather impressive that Kedra Hart, well-known for her rich, animalic perfumes, can also pull off delicate soliflores and light floral compositions with equal aplomb. Once again, I'm hooked, and I'll be back for more. 

Opus Oils Giggle Water and Flapper are available with either an alcohol or coconut oil base (I love these scents in the alcohol base). 1 dram bottles (5ml) are $35, larger sizes also available, as well as an eau de parfum version. 

[samples provided by the perfumer for review]