My Top 5 Pre-Spring Fragrances: Ode to a Chicago Thaw

[photo: Chicago's Polar Vortex via airplane by Hank Cain]

Today, all the neurons in my brain are firing in one direction-- towards Spring. I just can't help it. I know there was a huge snowfall here just earlier this week, but now it feels like Spring. I've opened the windows so that Computer Blue can investigate the tree and building denizens all around us, and get a whiff of her first real Printemps! Curtains are billowing in the breeze, Tom Petty plays on the stereo, sandalwood-scented incense wafts throughout the place and right out the window for others to enjoy. I've got on a dress that Stevie Nicks might try to snatch from me. Excitement is definitely the order of the day.

When I feel like this, I always bring out parts of my temporarily stowed-away perfume collection to see what strikes my fancy. What follows is my Top 5 list (in no particular order) of what's capturing my fancy during these unseasonably warm few days (I'm pretty sure it will all freeze over again any minute now).

1. Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris

In many ways, this perfume is about as feminine as I'll get with fragrance. This is no deep, dark elixir, but that doesn't mean that it's devoid of mystery. Its unabashed floral complexity would normally be something I might pass by, but not Impossible Iris. The ultra-modern raspberry tinge to it and the subtle pepperiness make me swoon, and when I wear it, I imagine the sophisticated, beautiful woman it was created for originally-- Ramon Monegal's wife (as an anniversary gift to her). Once my mind occupies the geography of Spain and I think of the Monegal family (extending to include everyone on staff), to wear Impossible Iris is to feel beautifully put-together, chic, clear-minded, and most of all-- to feel welcomed into Ramon Monegal's world. I absolutely treasure this fragrance and it is irreplaceable in my collection.

Oh, and if you're looking for a fragrance that very stylishly represents Pantone's 2014 color of the year, Radiant Orchid? This is it.

2. April Aromatics Jasmina

To be honest, this is not a perfume that I actually stow away for warmer weather-- I use it year-round to help me sleep or quell anxiety. It contains jasmine from India and France, ylang ylang and pink grapefruit. I wear it more often in warmer weather because I love how it smells on my skin when I'm outside. The way it mingles with fresh air makes it feel even more perfect. Not only do I feel happier when I wear Jasmina, it seems like the people around me do too. This is natural fragrance done exactly how I like it. Tanja Bochnig creates fragrances that are loaded with positive energy, and I hope there are lots of other people out there who enjoy the benefits of her broad talents as much as I do. If you're not familiar with April Aromatics, Jasmina is a great place to start, especially if you enjoy jasmine or suffer from insomnia, anxiety, or any emotional disturbances that could use some balancing. Nothing works quite as well for me-- it's nature's perfect medicine and the artisan craftsmanship is of the highest order. Bliss in a bottle.

3. Juniper Ridge Siskiyou Backpacker's Cologne
Juniper Ridge has a lot to be proud of, not least of which is the world's first (and only, as far as I know) mobile fragrance distillery. Everything they make, from soaps to incense to cologne, is wildcrafted from local, sustainably collected botanical materials. Their Siskiyou fragrance has been a favorite of mine since I first became aware of this brand. It's a scent designed around cedarwood surrounded by bright, jammy saps, spicy ginger, conifer needles and a juicy punch of citrus-- all essences native to the Pacific Northwest. I love to rake this through my hair, because it lasts longer on hair or clothes than on skin. There is more magic in this bottle than even I have words for. All I can say for sure is that if Juniper Ridge's goal is to capture various regional landscapes in an olfactory snapshot, they do that in spades. It's more than fragrance-- it's a feeling of freedom and contentment. To me, that's something you can't put a price on, but if pressed, I'd say that $55 for 1 oz is a bargain. If you're interested in Juniper Ridge's mobile distillery process and love awesome photography, do sign up for their newsletter on their website-- it's not to be missed.

4. Le Labo Santal 33
Le Labo's peppery, dry Santal 33 is a very refreshing (literally) alternative to more traditional and often cloying fragrances for men or women. If you like the sharp, slightly camphor-tinged Australian sandalwood, you won't find a better version of it. Santal 33 is one of the brand's smartest fragrances- heavy on chic as well as cheek. If Juniper Ridge scents evoke landscapes, Le Labo's evoke climate. Arid or humid, overcast and gray, brightly sunny and fleeting-- their scent renditions are driven by feelings rather than concepts. Santal 33 has a persistent, spare sun shining down on the wearer. The emotional impact is intensely positive and it feels so expansive and broad, encompassing all of the most interesting facets of Australian sandalwood. For me, this baby pairs well with a white fine-gauge, deep-v tee, steel-toed boots and a studded leather jacket. The uniform of confidence. You don't need to be a tough guy/gal to pull off wearing Santal 33, though-- just let its devastating authenticity do the talking for you. Think of the strength and self-sufficiency of a tree--yours for the taking.

5. Jul et Mad Stilettos On Lex
Stilettos On Lex could easily be thought of as in the same category as Impossible Iris, meaning that it's built around an intense floral accord with accents of ripened fruit, but it doesn't end there. The shadowy corners of this fragrance don't give away its secrets-- ever. But I enjoy some intrigue and sexual power in my sillage once in awhile, and Stilettos reminds me of an ultra-modern version of the big 80s florals that my mother used to wear. In that respect, it really feels like a gift. I was obsessed with my mother's perfumes growing up, but I knew instinctively that they were not for me, nor would they ever be. I'm just too different from my mother, who possessed the kind of effortless glamour and magnetism of a true 1980s diva. Stilettos is larger than life, but not so large that it outsizes my moodiness, my sharp edges and preference for speaking without saying a word. It fills a very specific need for me to connect to my true self and my mother simultaneously. This perfume's attractiveness is off the charts. Dark skies, brilliant heart.

Tell me, what have you been wearing or thinking about wearing lately? 

[All photos are property of their respective brands and photographers. All rights reserved.]

A Favorite Fashion Moment of 2012 and its Perfume Pairing

One of my favorite fashion moments of 2012 was undoubtedly the emergence of Swedish style blogger and model Elin Kling (Style By Kling) into the mainstream fashion limelight. It seems that these days, bloggers can become famous pretty easily, and many of us are left wondering.. why? Elin Kling has proven to be an exception to that kind of exasperated plaintiveness. Her collaboration with Marciano for her collection of clothing and accessories is all aces. The ad campaign featuring Kling herself as the model is even more delicious, as she clearly gives us major vintage Raquel Welch in One Million Years BC.  Kling's collection is super-modern, super-wearable and when you see it all as a whole, you just want to be that girl. We all know that kind of cool can't be bought, so if you've got it, rock it.

Amazing bootie from the Elin Kling for Marciano accessories collection

My favorite shot. The way her body torques is just like Raquel's

Raquel Welch in One Million Years BC

Now, let's see. Elin's look that I love so much needs a great fragrance to pair with it. We're going to need something either genderless or something that leans masculine, and it can't have overpowering sillage. A few great picks would be:

CB I Hate Perfume 2nd (Alan) Cumming

A smoky, peaty, boozy masterpiece. Meant to represent Scotland in all the ways that count (except haggis).

Donna Karan Woman

Beautiful woody, musky concoction that's very light on florals and heavy on quiet sex appeal.

Commes des Garcon Wonderwood

A marvel of the synthetic woody overdose.

Tom Ford Oud Wood

Rich, nutty, warm and simple- more of a halo than a perfume.

Despite the above strong contenders, one fragrance stands out among all for this particular pairing, and that would be:
JUL ET MAD Amour de Palazzo. With patchouli, natural castoreum (!), a four-spice blend and leather, it has the aesthetic strength of modernism on its side with an impassioned, amber-toned soul beneath the surface. When I see Elin Kling wearing her collection for Marciano, I get exactly the same vibe.

Do you have any favorite fashion moments of 2012? Can you pair it with a particular fragrance?

The Best of 2012: Fragrance

2012 was a fabulous year for fragrance, and I didn't even get to try half of all the launches that I wanted to. I took great pains to create this list in order for it to reflect the scents that have made the biggest impact on me in various ways this past year. Some have become an indispensable part of my daily life, others so precious that I'll only break them out once in awhile, and a couple that I think are profoundly interesting but that I might not wear much myself. In any case, they are all noteworthy, and they are listed below in no particular order.



Neela Vermeire Trayee
Neela Vermeire Creations kicked off the year in perfume in a very attention-grabbing way with the launch of her initial trio: Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling. While all three are beautiful, for my tastes, Trayee is one of the best perfumes I have ever smelled and is in a class of its own. Intended to represent the Vedic era of ancient Indian history, it definitely inspires in me what could definitely be considered spiritual bliss. Green cardamom pods, milky, cinnamon-spiked rice and a ganja accord are just a few of the highlights which add up to the sum of this truly enchanting, wholly unique perfume.

Ramon Monegal Cuirelle
I have worn Cuirelle more than any other perfume in the past year due to its versatility and perfect, genderless beauty. Its bright, positively charged shock of Somalian incense, leather and traditional floral heart notes never fails to lift my spirits. Everyone I know who has tried it has been taken in by its inviting, spiced, cashmere-like warmth. This is one perfume I don't intend to ever go without if I can help it.

Phaedon Grisens
This fragrance brandishes its sandalwood in a very intoxicating way, combining it with incense notes (yes, more incense, and there's more to come). This is a divine perfume that is so wildly attractive, it borders on an addiction for me. If you are a true lover of sandalwood and lament its scarcity as I do, buy Grisens. I'm not certain whether the sandalwood is the result of aromachemicals or not, but I don't care, and you won't either. Trust me.

Maria Candida Gentile Lady Day
The impossible has happened. I've found a gardenia-based perfume that I love. Why has Lady Day broken through a wall where other gardenias have feared to merely approach? It's because of its fresh angle. What Sheldrake did for tuberose with Tuberose Criminelle is what Italian artisan perfumer Maria Candida Gentile has done for gardenia. It's not for those looking for a traditionally pretty floral perfume-- Lady Day's appeal lies in its camphorous growl and its sharp, leafy edge. Maria has taken certain fresh facets of the flower (still firmly planted in the ground) and exaggerated them to stunning effect. A beautiful tribute, just as unique as its namesake, Billie Holiday.

By Kilian Amber Oud
Amber Oud is the most recent addition to Kilian Hennessy's Arabian Nights Collection, and it stands out from the crowd. The words "Amber" and "oud" hardly begin to describe the transcendent nature of this perfume. It begs to be explained in Aramaic or Sanskrit, neither of which I can touch. It reminds me of  a beautiful, dark-haired man or woman of ancient royal lineage, resplendent in earth-toned silks and adorned with a diadem made of burnished gold, pale topaz and sapphires. Not of this world, yet somehow, perfectly representative of it. It's very much worth the hefty price tag, and more. Certainly one of Calice Becker's best compositions of all time.

Aftelier Sepia
Sepia is the perfect combination of all the things I love most about Mandy Aftel's body of work and perfumery style. High quality, substantial natural essences are combined in such a way as to remove the excess weight of them and push forward a decidedly ethereal, finely detailed aesthetic. Sepia was inspired by one of Aftel's obsessions- California ghost towns. As the more volatile (mostly fruity) components of the fragrance change and fade, the bones of the composition is exposed: honeyed resins, dry, dusky  woods and the breath of layer upon layer of warm, earthy delights- such as ambergris and oud. Sepia has claimed its stake as a superstar in Aftelier's already stellar lineup.

JUL ET MAD Stilettos on Lex
New French brand JUL ET MAD came onto the scene with a very refreshing combination of romance and reality, as well as a nicely edited concept for their collection. Their first three fragrances are a chronological and geographical charting of creators Julien and Madalina's real-life love story. Stilettos on Lex represents the initial phase of seduction, and once you experience this masterful tuberose-centered perfume, you'll understand why. It manages an impressive level of sophistication while unabashedly flaunting its sensuality-- just like a great pair of Louboutins. Stilettos is tart on top, coolly floral in the middle and has a smooth, rich base. The raw materials are of excellent quality and are blended with great skill.  My hope is that a light will now shine brightly on the talent of Robertet perfumer Dorothee Piot, who authored all three JUL ET MAD creations.

Thierry Mugler Taste of Fragrance: Alien
Mugler's Limited Edition Taste of Fragrance collection was overall, quite interesting. My favorite of the bunch is Alien. The original Alien doesn't do a whole lot for me, but it's pleasant enough. This iteration, however, feels extraordinary: sweet bitter almond scented poisoned buttercream, cherries macerated in Chartreuse liqueur, fine hides impregnated with violet and orange blossom and fashioned into saddles. Its an awfully strange perfume and stokes the imagination into creating wild narratives-- which is precisely the reason Mugler's fragrances and couture have stood the test of time.

Amouage Opus VI
Well, I knew it was going to happen sooner or later. My odd-numbered Opus fetish has ended. I was starting to think Numerology was behind it all, until VI came along and convinced me that you can't really put a number on what the heart wants, anyway. Opus VI from The Library Collection is a very appealing combination of peppery, anisic sweet warmth and a variety of resins, musks and woods that Amouage fans will recognize. What makes VI special in my eyes is the marriage of its nose-tickling, eyelash-curling jolt of pepper and the cool, sweet marzipan-- it's a real treat to enjoy them simultaneously. This is gold to the fragrance-obsessed.

April Aromatics Calling All Angels
Calling All Angels is the first (and only, thus far) in the Angel series of fragrances created by natural perfumer Tanja Bochnig. Yet another perfume on my list that is based around incense, this one is starkly different from the others. It has the power of evoking the very dry, sweet smoke of fine incense instead of just the materials that comprise the incense. Angels' warm, arid amber qualities inspire the feeling of being protected, and its aromatic leanings are immediately comforting.  If you are a lover of amber and/or incense fragrances, this is a must-try. If you don't care for natural perfumes, try it anyway. This will likely be the one to change your mind.

Please visit the year-end posts of the other members of this blogging group as well (as if you could resist):
Persolaise
Fragrant Moments
Olfactoria's Travels

Perfumer Interview Series: Madalina Stoica-Blanchard

There is a new French niche house on the scene, and its name is JUL ET MAD. I was immediately charmed not only by their initial three offerings (Stilettos On Lex, Terrasse a St-Germain, Amour de Palazzo), but with the founders, creative directors and my favorite couple of the moment, Madalina and Julien. After the perfumes had a bit of time to burn a solid impression into my psyche (especially Stilettos On Lex), I had become very excited about the brand and was eager to know more about them. Madalina Stoica-Blanchard  was kind enough to indulge me with this interview. Reviews of each perfume are coming very soon.

The story of JUL ET MAD is really a love story told in three chapters based on geographical locations. Can you please tell us the story? And, why did you feel your story needed to be told through fragrances?

The story of JUL ET MAD is a true love story between Julien and Madalina, which is depicted in the three first Perfumes of our collection: Stilettos on Lex, Terrasse à St Germain and Amour de Palazzo.

To summarize, JUL ET MAD’s story begins with the portrayal of a young woman who lives on Lexington Avenue and enjoys every moment in New York City. The “Stilettos on Lex” chapter of the JUL ET MAD story is the exact description of whom I was at the time, and I like to think that this portrait is no different from all young women living life at its fullest.

At some point in my career I had to go to France and, before I realized what’s happening, I fell in love with a young, very handsome Parisian. It was love at first sight at this famous café terrace in St. Germain-des-Près.  This amazing and fortunate encounter completely changed our lives, as only few weeks later I decided to leave everything behind and move to France. The perfume “Terrasse à St-Germain” evokes exactly what we felt at the time, is the essence itself of our “coup de foudre”.

After my arrival in Paris, to celebrate the beginning of our life as a couple, Julien brought me to Venice … It was one of the most amazing experiences, we enjoyed every moment spent here, and everything seemed like a dream. Every emotion we felt, the magic of the place with its beauty and history, we illustrated in “Amour de Palazzo”, the third chapter of our Perfume Collection.

As for the “destination”, it simply happens that these first three episodes took place in different locations. The real purpose of JUL ET MAD is to describe the most important and memorable moments of our love story, no matter where situated.

And the idea of telling our story through fragrances came very naturally, as the brand JUL ET MAD itself is all about passion and celebration of life. We feel so lucky our two souls succeeded in meeting and recognizing each other, regardless the distance, the culture, the language, and we are amazed to see how our romance gives strength and belief to people around us. Moreover, every time we were asked how we met and after telling our story, the reaction was the same: “This is so beautiful, you should write a book!” So, what better way to tell our story, than by simply replacing the words with fragrant notes?

As creative directors, what was it about Robertet (Grasse) perfumer Dorothée Piot that made you and Julien feel that she was the one to bring your vision to life?

It’s a bit by chance, as it is with love. We didn’t plan on collaborating only with Dorothée, as different perfumers from Robertet were working on the first three JUL ET MAD compositions. They had for general direction only our feelings and our story, but absolute freedom in terms of raw materials and complexity. The task for the perfumers was even more difficult as this was a personal story. It just happens that, when presented with their first propositions, without knowing, the three fragrances chosen were imagined by Dorothée Piot. Afterwards, we worked together for several months in order to perfect them. Her sensibility and talent made the rest.

I noticed that the photographic image on your website for Stilettos On Lex contains a few mysteries of its own… the woman whose long legs and black patent stilettos we gaze at seems to have a tattoo on her ankle- the JUL ET MAD logo. Could this be meant to represent how perfume can imprint itself on us and become part of who we are? What is the idea behind the design of the logo?

About Stilettos On Lex, you are perfectly right! The JUL ET MAD logo tattooed on the ankle, means how personal and what a real part of you a perfume should be. You cannot simply remove it; Julien likes to think that a perfume is the only thing that remains on a woman even when nude. It is the first thing that precedes and introduces you, as well as the last thing that envelopes and protects you.

Our visuals are a very personal interpretation of places and emotions that marked us at a precise moment, the very source of inspiration for our perfumes … the striking beauty of a mysterious woman on Lexington, a café terrace in Paris, or a Murano glass chandelier in a Palazzo in Venice… That’s why the JUL ET MAD symbol or the bottle were introduced discreetly in every visual, as they are a distinctive part of the scene where the perfumes were born.

Regarding the design of our logo, it’s been a long work process with our graphic and design team. They presented us with a series of very personal questions to which Julien and I had to answer separately and together. They came to our house and took pictures of almost everything (paintings, sculptures, books, personal objects, as well as small design details). Few weeks after, they showed us different drawings, and this symbol just stood out, as we instantly recognized ourselves in it (there is a photo of a first draft of it on our website). We love these two shapes that are so different, but so complementary at the same time. Together, they form a new figure, but not through a total fusion and mix, more like an unbreakable bound, managing to keep their own original properties. As with our couple, we didn’t become a new entity; we kept our individual personalities which, combined, just became much stronger and solid.

At the heart of each of the three perfumes in this collection lie three very different vibes, almost as if each one is a distinct color or style of music. With this collection, was it your intention to see that each fragrance could stand on its own?

The idea was, indeed, to make three different compositions, as every perfume represents a different stage in our lives, influenced by different circumstances, different places, different people, and so on. This explains why we wanted in the beginning to work with different perfumers for each and every fragrance. And, we cannot say it often enough, Dorothée Piot showed a fantastic talent and sensibility, composing every perfume so differently, but still managing to keep the “lifeline” that animates the entire concept behind JUL ET MAD.

As anyone interested in perfume knows, there is an ever-increasing influx of new launches each year. Can you please explain what JUL ET MAD’s unique point of view is?

Yes, it is true that more and more new fragrance launches happen every year. It is a chance that people who are fond of fragrances can still find new and rare perfumes. Regarding JUL ET MAD, we developed our collection with a maximum of respect for the traditional French “savoir-faire” in perfumery, trying to transpose it in every details of our offer, which is entirely hand-made. We kept the highest concentration we could in our compositions, each fragrance of the collection being a veritable “Parfum”. We work in tight partnership with French companies specialized in the traditional perfumery and always tried to come back where the perfume should have stayed, a work of art in every aspect…

What are yours and Julien’s favorite raw materials, notes or accords, and why?

There are so many notes and accords I love!!! Living in different countries and cultures, I got attached to so many different raw materials specific to every place. But, if I really have to choose one in particular, I should say the ambergris. During my courses of Fragrance Knowledge at FIT, I fell in love with this magical, intriguing, exquisite, rare raw material… I remember how amazed I was by the fact that, when mixed and combined with other ingredients, this matter of dull grayish color and not extremely pleasant smell can magically alter and enhance the quality of the existing notes, making them greater, deeper and vaster than they can ever be on their own. It’s a little bit like in real life, when a person gets stronger and more confident thanks to the love and support shown by the people they cherish.

As for Julien? He told me the story of one of his numerous travels in Asia, where an Indian old man offered him as a welcome gift a beautifully hand-carved wooden box filled with musk-scented beads. He is since very attached to the smell of musk, which he identifies as specific to this mystical part of the world he so cherishes.

Have there been any particular perfumers, houses or perfumery styles that have influenced your aesthetic as a creator?

Inspiration is all around us! The industry of fragrance has such resources!! We are deeply attached to the French Traditional Perfumery era, where every perfume was presented as a unique, rare work of art… Whatever the inspiration may be, our goal was to create a Perfume Collection that will simply last over the years, elegant and extemporal, classic and modern at a time, as Love. Love and its beauty is not a question of fashion or trend, it’s simply intemporal.

I must admit that I’m enamored with the bottle design, the Nomad travel atomizers and even the outer packaging. Can you explain the concept behind the designs?

Thank you, Carrie! From the beginning, the idea was to develop a design based on the image of our love, preserving the purity of every matter. To reflect the complexity of the couple, we played with different aspects and textures. The flacon shows all this perfectly. The front, transparent, is delicately engraved with the brand and perfume names in pure platinum letters, in order to keep a feeling of purity and quiet elegance. The back, in perfect symmetry with the front, is entirely frosted, with the exception of the logo symbol, thus responding to its other half. The couple’s entire duality is expressed in this perfume bottle, the logo recomposing itself through the transparency of the glass, as we look at the front of bottle.

A heavy cap in zamak designed by Julien crowns the bottle, its shape reinterpreting the logo symbol.  It starts as a circle at the base, and gradually “blooms” to become a square at the top.

We also developed the Nomad Spray for every flacon specifically. They come already filled, as we think a perfume should naturally follow you everywhere, anytime. As an echo to the glass flacon decoration, the concept of duality is also found here, evoked by the textures and the effects on the bright and matte silver metal.

And last, but not least, we wanted our outer packaging to represent not only a simple perfume box, but the “home” of our unconditioned love, the chest of our passion, revealing the beauty of our perfumes, with nothing to hide. We developed this elegant leather case in light grey color and silver, with an interior draped in white velvet. The perfume hold was designed to be removable, allowing the reuse of this precious box for personal treasures, if desired.

With Julien’s design background and your knowledge of and passion for perfume, it seems natural to me that your first collection would feel as concise and polished as it does. What can we expect from JUL ET MAD moving forward? Do you already have new fragrances in the works?

Well, yes indeed! The JUL ET MAD story just began and we have so many moments we would like to share! Since we’ve met, we already lived so many fantastic things, discovering new amazing places, meeting such beautiful people! Although I cannot get into details at this stage, I can tell that the future will reserve many nice surprises, as our collection is just at its very beginning!

I know that you spent your childhood in Romania, moved to New York at a young age and eventually settled in Paris. What is it about France (besides Julien!) that managed to snatch your heart for good?

I don’t know if there is an answer for this… There are so many things I love in France! The history, the people, the culture, the language… If I really think about it, maybe I found here a similarity to my birth country - which I greatly cherish - as Romanian history and culture are very close and historically related to the French… Did you know that Bucharest was called “Little Paris” between the two WW?  Yes, this could be one of the reasons if I really think about it. It could also be the beauty of this country, and this not only from an architectural point of view… And the food, oh yes, the land of fine cuisine which I so very much enjoy, especially when accompanied by a glass of a perfect wine… And the perfumes, of course!! Being able to live my passion for the industry fully, being able to learn and work at the “source” of the perfumery, and finally being able to create and to see my dream come true… 

And I think it is nearly impossible not to get caught up in Madalina's sweeping passions and her intellectual and creative musings. Behind JUL ET MAD is a story that you must sniff to believe.

[JUL ET MAD perfumes can be found at MiN New York and Aedes de Venustas. They are well worth the attention I'm lavishing upon them-- trust me, you'll want to try these]